Swap the plugs. It's not horribly common, but we have had several "incurable" no-starts where the culprit was the plugs.
Can an Engine Have High Compression And Still be Flooded?
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The ignition coils are in the proper order as they are label from number 1 to 4. I went out looking for a fuel pump thinking maybe it wasn't providing enough fuel pressure but was unable to find one in the junkyards surrounding me. I'll try getting newer plugs next, most people recommend 2 to 3 prong spark plugs but mine a single prong so maybe that could be it.
Who are these "most people?" They keep telling you wrong.
Fuel pressure can be tested. It seems you like buying parts versus proper troubleshooting. I would recommend what @DoubleWasp said about trying a new set of spark plugs though. Use the basic OEM spec ones, not anything fancy.
Fuel pressure can be tested. It seems you like buying parts versus proper troubleshooting. I would recommend what @DoubleWasp said about trying a new set of spark plugs though. Use the basic OEM spec ones, not anything fancy.
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OP, now you are seeing why the letters BMW actually stand for "Bring My Wallet". Unless this car has sentimental value to you that far exceeds its actual value (it's a low-end model with no cult following) I would personally Craigslist it as non-running, as-is for a couple Benjamins and walk away. If the car has been sitting completely unused for 13 years, there was likely a (costly) reason why. Even if you do manage to get it running, now you'll have to deal with possible rotten rubber lines, frozen brake calipers, etc etc etc. Any one of those items can cause a catastrophic failure while driving that will put you or others at risk. Get out while you can; good luck!
Originally Posted by SubieRubyRoo
OP, now you are seeing why the letters BMW actually stand for "Bring My Wallet". Unless this car has sentimental value to you that far exceeds its actual value (it's a low-end model with no cult following) I would personally Craigslist it as non-running, as-is for a couple Benjamins and walk away. If the car has been sitting completely unused for 13 years, there was likely a (costly) reason why. Even if you do manage to get it running, now you'll have to deal with possible rotten rubber lines, frozen brake calipers, etc etc etc. Any one of those items can cause a catastrophic failure while driving that will put you or others at risk. Get out while you can; good luck!
Oh [censored].
The 318is isn't a low-end model, and it does have a cult following.
It's a 24 year old car that has sat for some time, so of course it is going to have issues. If the OP wasn't playing guess the part instead of doing real troubleshooting, he'd have the car back up.
My suggestion is to buy a Bentley repair manual and follow the no-start troubleshooting tree.
OP, now you are seeing why the letters BMW actually stand for "Bring My Wallet". Unless this car has sentimental value to you that far exceeds its actual value (it's a low-end model with no cult following) I would personally Craigslist it as non-running, as-is for a couple Benjamins and walk away. If the car has been sitting completely unused for 13 years, there was likely a (costly) reason why. Even if you do manage to get it running, now you'll have to deal with possible rotten rubber lines, frozen brake calipers, etc etc etc. Any one of those items can cause a catastrophic failure while driving that will put you or others at risk. Get out while you can; good luck!
Oh [censored].
The 318is isn't a low-end model, and it does have a cult following.
It's a 24 year old car that has sat for some time, so of course it is going to have issues. If the OP wasn't playing guess the part instead of doing real troubleshooting, he'd have the car back up.
My suggestion is to buy a Bentley repair manual and follow the no-start troubleshooting tree.
You guys are right, I am guessing instead of identifying actual problems. I will check for top dead center and my timing marks, it is the most plausible thing at this point. I will update this post when that is finished
Verify the timing. Verify fuel pressure. Is it OBD1 or OBD? Could be a MAF or AFM problem. TPS could also be to blame.
Originally Posted by mattd
If the compression varies that much then you have some fuel washes cylinders or a mechanical issue with the low cylinders. That is way too much of a spread.
Compression may be that varied if the testing isn't on a consistent number of cranks/'hits' when testing each cylinder ...
If the compression varies that much then you have some fuel washes cylinders or a mechanical issue with the low cylinders. That is way too much of a spread.
Compression may be that varied if the testing isn't on a consistent number of cranks/'hits' when testing each cylinder ...
I cranked for 5 seconds on each cylinder two days ago, the results were Cylinder 1: 120, Cylinder 2: 210, Cylinder 3: 215, Cylinder 4: 225. I retested Cylinder 1 to make sure the tester was threaded in correctly and sure enough it was. I don't think that should stop the car from starting still. I haven't gotten around to testing the timing as I was busy yesterday, I will make sure to do that soon and update this post after that's complete.
I didn't bother to put oil down there because I thought as long it was above 90 it would be fine. You guys really know your stuff. I will try to get it at the level the other ones are at once I get home. I'm honestly hoping the cams are out of time because if they are at least I will know what to do to get it running!
Got TDC, checked the cam lobes and saw they were at the proper position they should be at TDC ( Cylinder #1 cam lobes pointed in towards each other) then I checked for the arrow on the sprockets pointing up when at TDC and sure enough that was there too. What could it be at this point? HALP!1!1!!!
(Edit) I notice now that the Idler Tensioner Pulley is moving up and down while cranking, but I checked the belt and it's taunt and fitted correctly. Is it normal for it to move like that?
(Edit) I notice now that the Idler Tensioner Pulley is moving up and down while cranking, but I checked the belt and it's taunt and fitted correctly. Is it normal for it to move like that?
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Joseph, is that you?
No this isn't
Interesting development, I have relinquished the troubleshooting to a mechanic near me, he told me I needed a new crankshaft position sensor for $300 parts and labor (I was shocked because I tested the sensor weeks ago and it came back at 540ohms, which is what it should be). I decided to take the car back and buy the sensor myself. The part should be here in a few days but I decided to take the current sensor out and test it again, it did come back as 550 ohms but it looks like it's been mangled
![[Linked Image]](https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/attachments/usergals/2019/07/full-85954-34468-20190714_115446.jpg "[Linked Image]")
![[Linked Image]](https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/attachments/usergals/2019/07/full-85954-34469-20190714_115436.jpg "[Linked Image]")
Agreed. You have a bigger problem than that. It's just going to happen again to thy new sensor. It's oossible the chain may be wearing into it. Are there any broken guides?
I can't recall where the reluctor wheel is on this engine. If its behind the timing cover then what I said applies. If it is on the balancer then you either have a bad balancer or it's loose on the crankshaft. If that's the case the crank is junk
I can't recall where the reluctor wheel is on this engine. If its behind the timing cover then what I said applies. If it is on the balancer then you either have a bad balancer or it's loose on the crankshaft. If that's the case the crank is junk
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