Camry burns 4L oil every 7,000km

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Mar 29, 2015
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Australia
I’ve got a manual 2002 Camry with a 2.4L VVTI 4 cylinder which burns about 4L of oil every 7,000kms. No external leaks and doesn’t blow smoke, just burns the oil internally.

Currently I’ve been using Castrol GTX 15W40 however wanting to try a thicker oil to see if I can reduce oil consumption.

Would it be recommended go up in thickness in steps and try a 15 or 20W50? Or go straight to a 15 or 20W60?

Another option over here in Australia, Penrite has a 30W70 which is marketed for engines with my exact issue: https://penriteoil.com.au/products/stops-oil-burning-30-70

Any advice would be appreciated!
 
Rings are stuck on that 2AZ-FE. I believe some here have had good luck with piston soaks, trying to get the rings free. That'd be easier than replacing rings for sure.

Going up a grade might help but in the end, the rings aren't doing their job.
 
The notorious 1ZZ-FE in my wife's '02 Corolla would lose two quarts over the course of a 3k OCI for the same reason: stuck oil control rings.

Thicker oil may slow it down but it won't fix it. I tried a few things (specifically high doses of MMO) but what eventually did the most good was just using a good-quality modern synthetic in the recommended grade. It went down to 1/2 quart per 3k which was a huge improvement.
 
I’d stick with 10-40 and always have half a can of seafoam in the sump. As you add oil, add seafoam, drive. I’ve experienced this helping reduce oil consumption in a high mile Volvo I owned.
 
Am I able to just add Berryman B12 with oil? My guess is it would work similar as Valvoline Restore and Protect, which I assume has a small amount of solvent in it to break up deposits?
 
Am I able to just add Berryman B12 with oil? My guess is it would work similar as Valvoline Restore and Protect, which I assume has a small amount of solvent in it to break up deposits?
No, the B12 soak is actually a soak. Pull the sparkplugs and vacuum away all dirt in each of the sparkplug wells ( you may have to make a tube from thin sheet metal and tape that tube to the end of your vacuum hose to extend the vacuum hose to reach down into each sparkplug-well, and also vacuum away all dirt around that area so none can fall into the sparkplug-well ) ( a good way to make that tube the correct size is to use a sparkplug for that engine to size the diameter of that tube made of thin sheet-metal so it just barely fits around the hex section of the spark-plug loose enough to not grab onto the sparkplug, that way, you know it will fit down the spark-plug well, and you can even clean deep into those wells before removing the spark-plugs ) , position the crankshaft so all 4 pistons are about 1/2 way up in the cylinders, use a thin hose on a funnel to pour several ounces of B12 into each cylinder without getting dirt into the cylinders, so enough is in each to ensure it gets to all sides of each piston. Clean that thin hose verry well each time you pull it out so any dirt on it does not get in the next cylinder. Let it set like that for several days, each day check all cylinders and add more B12 to the cylinders that it has seaped down past the top of the piston.

Do that for a minimum of 3 days (72 hours) but better results may happen the more days you do it like 7 days or more. I would do a 10 day soak. And cleaning chemicals work better if they are warm when being used. So the warmer the ambient temperature around that engine is while your doing that soak so the engine is warm, the better it will work.

Then put rags over each sparkplug well so the rag can not get sucked into the engine, but will not get blown out of the area, and crank the engine with the sparkplugs out and the FUEL SUPPLY DISABLED ( pull the fuel pump fuse if it has an electric fuel pump ), for quite a while to blowout all the B12.

Use the funnel with hose to put about a spoonful of motor oil into each cylinder, remember to to clean the hose each time you remove it, put rags back over sparkplug holes and CRANK IT AGAIN WITH THE SPARKPLUGS OUT, to get oil back in the rings before you run the engine. If you don't do this the engine may not have enough compression to run.

Never just drop a spark-plug into a spark-plug well. Insert each spark-plug into a snug rubber hose to hold it when you put them in, and hand tighten them before using a torque wrench to torque them to the proper torque. The head is aluminum, so you gotta use a torque wrench set to the proper torque. Don't even think about not using a torque wrench.

Replace the sparkplugs ( with new ones if needed ), enable fuel supply. It's gonna have smoke out the tail pipe as it burns off the oil you had to put in the cylinders to restore the oil seal so it has compression the first time you run it. That's OK.

Run the engine for a few miles ( km to you blokes ).

Change oil and filter.

Run it about 500 miles before judging if it worked.

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Engines with stuck rings, tend to wear cylinder walls. If the cylinder wall is worn too bad the oil consumption will continue.

Also, as other have said to you, you really should be using Valvoline Restore and Protect in the heaviest weight you can get it in, and for at least 4 oil changes in a row.

Never never never add anything to any engine oil. Oil formulation is a very complex science backed by a lot of expensive testing. When you add other liquids to a well formulated engine oil, you throw away all that oil engineering that went into designing the oil. Just don't do that.

Put Red-Line SI -1 fuel system cleaner in your fuel at the recommended dose if 1 bottle per 20 gallons. It's a very good fuel system cleaner, and also has upper-cylinder lube.

Fuel system cleaner is the ONLY additive you should be using for your engine. And ONLY put it in the fuel. Again, NEVER put any additive in the engine oil.
 
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You're experiencing the results of Toyota's foray into low tension piston rings. Do a piston soak with kero.
 
Hi guys, this is the method I’m thinking for the piston soak:

- cold engine
- remove fuel pump fuse
- remove ignition fuse
- remove spark plugs
- pour berryman b12 into cylinders
- insert spark plugs back in
- let sit for as long as possible
- remove spark plugs
- with no spark or fuel, crank car to break up any remaining carbon
- air compress the cylinders to remove b12
- put fuel pump fuse back in
- put ignition fuse back in
- put spark plugs back in
- pour 200ml of berrymans b12 into oil
- run car idle for 5-10 minutes
- drain oil
- new oil filter
- new mineral 5W-30 oil
- run car for 1 week with spirited driving

I plan to do this process twice, then run Valvoline Restore and Protect. Would 5W-30 or 10W-40 Restore and protect be better to use?

I’m also thinking a 5W-30 mineral oil would be fine to use for the 1 week of spirited driving before draining? My thoughts are a lower viscosity oil would help freeing up the rings compared to higher viscosity?
 
Hi guys, this is the method I’m thinking for the piston soak:

I plan to do this process twice, then run Valvoline Restore and Protect. Would 5W-30 or 10W-40 Restore and protect be better to use?

I’m also thinking a 5W-30 mineral oil would be fine to use for the 1 week of spirited driving before draining? My thoughts are a lower viscosity oil would help freeing up the rings compared to higher viscosity?

Rings will hopefully free up from B12 soak. Any cheap oil as flush for a week or two will be fine, does not have to be mineral.
Would use 10W40 VRP after that, but any of them would work.

Add fogging oil or 10-30ml oil to cylinders before startup.

Edit: Read this thread.
 
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Rings will hopefully free up from B12 soak. Any cheap oil as flush for a week or two will be fine, does not have to be mineral.
Would use 10W40 VRP after that, but any of them would work.

Add fogging oil or 10-30ml oil to cylinders before startup.

Edit: Read this thread.
Do you think it would be good to put 200ml of B12 in with the oil and let it idle for 10 minutes prior to dumping after the soak? Or would 2 soaks + VRP suffice?

When I look inside the block, I see a lot of built up deposits…
 
I’ve got a manual 2002 Camry with a 2.4L VVTI 4 cylinder which burns about 4L of oil every 7,000kms. No external leaks and doesn’t blow smoke, just burns the oil internally.

Currently I’ve been using Castrol GTX 15W40 however wanting to try a thicker oil to see if I can reduce oil consumption.

Would it be recommended go up in thickness in steps and try a 15 or 20W50? Or go straight to a 15 or 20W60?

Another option over here in Australia, Penrite has a 30W70 which is marketed for engines with my exact issue: https://penriteoil.com.au/products/stops-oil-burning-30-70

Any advice would be appreciated!
How many miles or km on the engine. If it's burning oil then that has to go out the exhaust so I am not understanding your comment of no smoke.

Any chance you want to pull the head and actually clean or replace the rings?

How is the compression?

A piston soak is cheap and easy. And the quickest way to try and unstick the oil control rings.
 
How many miles or km on the engine. If it's burning oil then that has to go out the exhaust so I am not understanding your comment of no smoke.

Any chance you want to pull the head and actually clean or replace the rings?

How is the compression?

A piston soak is cheap and easy. And the quickest way to try and unstick the oil control rings.
230,000km. I bought the car for $1200AU 10 years ago and I have a feeling it was heavily neglected.

I don’t see any visible smoke out of the exhaust, however you can smell it.

I don’t want to replace the rings, but I’ll check compression shortly.

I’ll be doing the piston soak, but at the same time wondering if I can help clean all the built up deposits on the internals by adding B12 to the oil before dropping it - similar to an engine oil flush
 
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