Camry 94 4 cyl front motor mount

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I am trying to get this worn motor mount out and have everything except the front most nut off. The rest are bolts.
I am using my HF 1/2" impact wrench in position 5. (Its one of their better 1/2" ones, not the $19.95 one). Will not budge. PB Blaster has been soaking overnight. I have also tried a 3' piece of pipe on an L handle and that did not budge it either.

My next action is to buy a 3/4" to 1/2" impact adaptor and use my 3/4" impact wrench. The adaptor is like $25 at Sears, seem pretty expensive for what it is.
 
I would go with the 3/4 if I were you, you can get an hf adapter for it for $3.99 (pack of 3 sizes)last I checked, dont need a black "impact" on it so much as they are so cheap it may score a little but will not break, I have used mine all the time. Sometimes I find harmonic balancer bolts that are so tight (honda's) that even my 3/4 wouldnt get em, so I got one of the hf industrial impacts, saves me quite often. Good luck. Hope its the ones on top and not the ones on the bottom, little easier. One last thing, the less extensions the better, I have had them not come loose with an extension but then when the extension was removed they would break loose, hope this helps.
 
I order to not use an adapter I think I would need to take out the electric fan for the radiator so I can get my impact wrench all the way down. I have been using a single 8" (or so) extension.

I am also looking at the motor mount itself and am not sure if its better to try and slide it up or down. I may need to remove the fan if I want to slide it up. The mount is not tiny and things are tight between the engine and radiator (up) or the engine and chassis (down).

I am now in a not so good situation. I got 2 or the 3 bolts/nuts out but cannot get them back in as things shifted slightly and I will need the motor mount loose to screw in all the bolts. But the remaining nut is not going anywhere and the majority of the force is down, so I should be OK driving until I get it resolved.
 
I assume you are changing the mount because its already broken or at least loose, the rubbers worn, so its probably shifting the engine a little while you drive. If it were mine I would continue to drive it but be very careful to not step on the gas too much, be easy on it, since it still has that one bolt tight it should be ok. You may even get lucky and have it snap LOL. The thing with the extensions is that if you have like 3 little ones, the gaps in each connection add up to alot of slop that takes away from the turning action of the impact wrench, so if you have to use extensions just make sure to use the least amount possible, like a really long one instead of a few short ones, but you are using a single one so thats not an issue. Other than that, you could try heating the bolt with a propane torch for about a minute or so then hit it w/ the impact, short of that working I would say a bigger impact wrench. Also, make sure you're air pressure to the gun is up high enough, if its an air one you are using. I would lower the motor with a jack and piece of 2/4 on the bottom of the oil pan to remove it, but you will only be able to lower it about 6 inches or so as the transmisson mounts will hold it. They are designed to move a little to allow you to change the timing belt. Lastly, there are toyota forums that could help you also, they have helped me with my 93 corolla (best car I have ever owned). Worst case scenario, at least the bolt is reachable by removing the fan for the radiator.
 
I am only using a single extension, not a few small ones. The air pressure should be set at 90, I will check, but assume it is. My hose is roughly 40' of 3/8" hose. If I had some 1/2" hose I would use it, but I do not have any.
 
A couple other things you could do to get the most efficiency out of an air impact wrench are often overlooked. A shorter hose allows greater pressure to reach the gun (my 40' is too long for some jobs, while my 25' allows it to work). Same with larger diameter hose. I've also noticed my quick connects rob me of some power, so I hook direct when I have a really stubborn bolt (PITA sometimes, but it does help a lot). And don't forget most quick connects are 1/4". 3/8's quick connects are available, and I'm looking at swapping over to them in the future.

For the motor mount bolt, have you tried jacking the engine up slightly? With two bolts removed, it may be resting on the remaining 1 enough to make it really bind. It wouldn't need "raised" a perceivable amount, just enough to take the weight off the bolt.

Dave
 
The bottom of the motor mount sits on the frame with two bolts (removed) and one stud and nut (not able to remove) holding it from coming up off the frame or twisting sideways. Jacking up the engine (I have tried it a little) would actually put some up force on the stuck nut. The bolts went into threaded holes and thus their threading was protected. The stud and nut stick up and obviously over the years have gotten water and corrosion into their threading causing them to rust together. Also I believe (but am not sure) that thread locking compound is used on the motor mounts (thats what my Haynes manual says).
 
Maybe I should try heating the nut/stud up a little. If I do not break the hold of the rust between the nut & stud, with a large enough impact wrench I may just end up damaging the nut.
 
I would heat it, if it damages the nut then it wasnt coming off anyway, then its time to let the shop mess with it. Last chance may be cutting and grinding it off if that happens, try to cut the bolt on one side from top to bottom so that you can split it wide open.
 
Donald,
I was talking about length of 3/8" hose. A smaller run of hose will work better than a longer run even if both are the same diameter.
A 1/2" hose would probably be even better, but I haven't seen them available around here (admittedly, I haven't really been looking. 3/8's does fine for me). But make sure your compressor can handle it. My buddy has a small Craftsman compressor with 1 hp running power. Mine of the same tank size has 2 hp running, 2.5 peak. Mine will operate my impact wrench with my 3/8" hose, while his won't. With 1/4" hose on my compressor, the impact wrench doesn't have nearly the same torque as the 3/8's hose (won't even remove lug nuts set at 95 ft/lbs). I've read that impact wrenches need a minimum of 2 hp, and that is consistant with my observations. My air ratchet doesn't run very well on his 1 hp compressor, or even my 2 hp with 1/4" hose. With 3/8's hose on mine it is fine.
Even though most air tools say 90 psi, for stubborn stuff I set mine to 115 psi. It goes through the air quicker, but it's the initial "burst" that breaks things free. But I don't make it a habit of running it that high just because the manufacturer of my tools says to use 90 psi. I don't know if any damage would be done or not using it for an extended period of time at higher pressure, but better safe than sorry. I doubt the few times I've cranked it up is really going to wear out my tools faster. But I could be wrong.
It may be one of those situations where you'll have to cut or split the nut. Sounds like you know what you're doing, using PB Blaster and heat would have been my next recommendations. But sometimes things just won't come off without cutting. Slicing the sides of the nut with a Dremel cut-off wheel works for me. And if careful, you can slice almost through the sides, then a sharp blow with a chisel will pop the rest off so you won't damage the stud's threads. Double check how the stud is attached, because it may be necessary to replace it if it gets damaged removing the nut. If it is pressed in, hopefully you'll be able to pound it out. Then you can take them to Home Depot and match a new set.
As for threadlocker, I'd assume the manufacturer used it. Nissan did on my car. But I doubt any threadlocker from the manufacturer is holding you up when you're using an impact wrench.

Like I said, sounds like you know what you're doing. Keep at it, you'll get it. I've also found that it helps if I cuss the stubborn ones alot (it helps my mental well-being; doesn't do a thing for removing the nut). Let us know how it's coming.

Dave
 
My compressor is a 5HP 2 stage with a 60 gallon tank. Plenty of air to be a weekend warrior.

How do I know how hot I can get something without loosing the temper? Lets assume replacing the stud would be a royal pain thus I want to reuse it. I read that you do not want to go over 300 degrees else you may damage the steel bolt (its temper). Mentioned that when the oil/grease begins to smoke you are at 300 degrees. How much good will it be if I only get the nut to 300 degrees rather than red hot? I realize I should try and only heat up the nut, but assume the stud will get hot also.
 
I just found and read the directions for my HF impact wrench. Says a max torque of 450 ftlbs. Also that the minimum air is 90 and that I can go up to 150 PSI. More that I would have expected. I would assume that I will not get 450 ftlbs of torque unless I have the regulator set at 150 PSI??
 
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