Cam wiped out - MaxLife 10-40 blamed

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Way off topic here: I too loved the "per batem" line. Reminds me of a lady in SC at a rug store a few years ago who helped my wife find a rug for our guest room. The lady had just lost a bunch of weight and said she had to get all new clothes. But she was happy to get rid of her old wardrobe. Referencing how she felt about getting rid of her fat clothes, she said "I was like c'est la vista!" I had to turn around.
 
Logic is apparently a lost art. He has proof!
spankme2.gif
He used a synthetic blend and now his cam is wiped! ergo...!!
 
Originally Posted By: flatlandtacoma
Logic is apparently a lost art. He has proof!
spankme2.gif
He used a synthetic blend and now his cam is wiped! ergo...!!

That's exactly it, per batem.
 
Originally Posted By: flatlandtacoma
Logic is apparently a lost art. He has proof!
spankme2.gif
He used a synthetic blend and now his cam is wiped! ergo...!!


Quote:
your words per batem: but also lowering protection of flat tappet cams in high-lift, high-rpm situations you said it your self.


I got news for that guy. His oil choice, nor did improper break in oil/procedure nor did khrapping behind the voodoo bocks cause his failure. Cheap metal caused that. And this is a near perfect example of how SM/Synthetic/too thin/too thick gets the blame for something that was started by some cam quack.
 
I think people get too wound up on zinc content for older vehicles, but I still wouldn't even consider anything other than VR1 in a high performance Detroit big block.
 
It's well known in flat tappet land to break in the cam for 20-30 minutes varying speed between 2,000-3,000 rpm. I have many friends that use old tired stock springs and swap them out after break-in. I don't bother, my springs are only 100lbs with 80lbs stock and it's a little 212-212 cam. I've tried 5 cams and never had a problem.

It's not just flat tappets that have problems. We had a disaster called the "budget roller" setup. It was a roller conversion using a stock cam casting. Killed no less than 40 engines. The oil got blamed, the spring pressures got blamed, break-in procedures were blamed until they found out it was the cams themselves.
 
Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
Originally Posted By: addyguy
I have a hard time beleiving it was JUST the oil that caused that damage. ML has a LOT of moly in it, that 'should' mostly make up for the lower zinc amounts. Perhaps improper assembly/break-in?


Or a flaw in the cam itself or the lifter foot surface. Note that the other lobes look just fine! If it were oil-related, I'd expect to see all of them trashed.



That, in addition to all of what Quest said, kinda clinches it.


I often wondered why 20 minutes was the cam break in running time at first start. I think Quest covered this. It would take about that amount of time to heat up the oil enough for the AW elements to work ..or so I reason.


I've been told, at least as it relates to my car, you vary rpms for 20 minutes because the "splash pattern" can change with different rpms so you're trying to make sure it has good lube during break-in.
 
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL




No, that's probably a Honda 1.6L with 45lbs of boost on it, running C16 and having to have the head re-torqued between runs just trying to break 12's.



LOL. Now that's funny and true. I've been so tempted to copy my combo with 7.0L of displacement. If it weren't for the novelty factor of the V6 I would've already done it.
 
Originally Posted By: BuickGN
Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
Originally Posted By: addyguy
I have a hard time beleiving it was JUST the oil that caused that damage. ML has a LOT of moly in it, that 'should' mostly make up for the lower zinc amounts. Perhaps improper assembly/break-in?


Or a flaw in the cam itself or the lifter foot surface. Note that the other lobes look just fine! If it were oil-related, I'd expect to see all of them trashed.



That, in addition to all of what Quest said, kinda clinches it.


I often wondered why 20 minutes was the cam break in running time at first start. I think Quest covered this. It would take about that amount of time to heat up the oil enough for the AW elements to work ..or so I reason.


I've been told, at least as it relates to my car, you vary rpms for 20 minutes because the "splash pattern" can change with different rpms so you're trying to make sure it has good lube during break-in.


Maybe so. I just wondered why 20 minutes. Not 15 ..not 30 ..but 20. One would assume that lubrication would vary with oil volume and whatnot, but I can see some thermal aspect to both the oil and the engine itself being reached here. The revving from time to time would surely vary the splash pattern. I've only observed the process and never have done it myself nor researched much into why. It has just always been 20 minutes.
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Originally Posted By: Max_Wander
OVERKILL I appreciate the fine details. Yes the big numbers on pump gas are somewhat appealing, but again, not my cup.


That's fine. The issue I had was not with what you prefer or do not, it was your condemnation of Ford for something that has nothing to do with their engineering, and is not Ford-engine specific.

Quote:
I don't mean to come off like an [censored] (it just happens sometimes) and I'm def. not a Honda freak, look they even have cams failing with stock parts and roller fingers!


Yes, you did for sure
grin2.gif
Though I'm sure I did as well.

Quote:
What I do appreciate is the engineer's kindness of an over-built production engine. A little known Japanese IRON block, for example, with high flowing DOHC, 4 valve/cyl head on an engine that didnt come turbo from the factory, will STILL make 550+whp reliably entirely stock (and still uses flat bucket lifters). Never ever heard of cam problems.


And there are lots of engines like this from a number of manufacturers.

BuickGN's 3.8L for example.

The 4.6L modular Ford found in the '03/'04 Cobra, will handle over 1,000RWHP on the stock internals no problem.

The 5.4L in the Ford GT.

The 5.4L in the Mustang GT500.

The Ford 427 SOHC from the sixties, 657HP bone stock.

The Ford BOSS 429

The Chrysler 426 HEMI

The aluminum-headed GM 427

The 340 Mopar

Ford's BOSS 302

Ford's 351 Cleveland

and the list goes on......


Quote:
When you do these things on a BBx, the springs have to return NEEDLESS amounts of MASS in a timely fashion; the pushrod and the HUGE single valve need a spring strong enough. But install a spring strong enough and lobes go missing. This is where problems come in. You and bubba are right in this case, does he really need such high spring rates for his redline? and the engine builder should have matched the right parts, either lower spring rates and flat tappets or his existing springs and rollers all over. But that's just whatcha gotta deal with, I spose. Perhaps I can't pin this one on FORD (although I don't find cam in block designs to lubricate as well as a OHC where each lobe gets dipped in oil on each revolution), but you can't blame the lube either.


It is a big engine, with huge cylinders, and with huge cylinders, come huge valves. Even if it was retrofitted with overhead cams and 4-valve heads, because of the bore size, the valves could still be quite large.

Ford's 427 SOHC had massive valves in an overhead cam configuration. They also made a DOHC version of the small block Windsor in the early 60's that ran in the Ford/Lotus Indy car.

The mass is hardly needless. It is present due to the size of the engine. An engine of a family that Jon Kaase (I don't know if you are familiar with the name) manages to massage in the neighbourhood of 2,000HP from ALL MOTOR and allows the Purvis Ford racing team to run bottom 6's at well over 200Mph with.

What I fail to see is the logic with the continued use of flat tappets in these engines. Roller kits are relatively inexpensive and completely eliminate this headache. Ford went roller on the Windsor in 1985 in the Mustang, it is not like this is something new for those familiar with engines from the blue oval. People continue to use flat tappet because the cams are cheap and so are the lifters.

As far as cam-in-block lubrication, I have owned FOUR good 'ol cam-in-block 302's, one of which is STILL flat tappet! That's in my 1978 Glasstron. The one in my Mustang has the ORIGINAL cam bearings (all of them do actually) in it, and is on its third camshaft. The bearings look brand new, and I'm still using the ORIGINAL lifters! That engine has had the LIVING SNOT driven out of it. There is no lubrication problem. It is obviously roller.

And to clarify, I never blamed the lube. It was likely the break-in procedure or improper setup that caused the issue.
 
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Originally Posted By: SnakeOil
We've built a few engines in my shop (amateurishly) and just moly the heck out of the cams and lifterss with high content axle grease. We run the engine for a while at idle with a mild rev every once in a while. Then we do a quick drain and fill with VR1 or M1HM 10w30 depending on the application.


Engine builder my buddy used to work with used GM EOS on them. We'd run it for 20 minutes at 2K or so with Kendall 15w40 in it, then change the oil.

Didn't have any problems using that procedure in the S10 for the couple of cams we did in it.

It is roller now though, had a new engine built.


This is exactly how my comp cams instruction manual required for cam/lifter break in. They just recommended their proprietary special assembly lube.
 
isn't ZDDP's purpose mostly for boundary lubrication? also, isn't maxlife's content of said additive fairly high compared to a lot of SM oils?
 
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Originally Posted By: Max_Wander
OVERKILL I appreciate the fine details. Yes the big numbers on pump gas are somewhat appealing, but again, not my cup.


That's fine. The issue I had was not with what you prefer or do not, it was your condemnation of Ford for something that has nothing to do with their engineering, and is not Ford-engine specific.

Quote:
I don't mean to come off like an [censored] (it just happens sometimes) and I'm def. not a Honda freak, look they even have cams failing with stock parts and roller fingers!


Yes, you did for sure
grin2.gif
Though I'm sure I did as well.

Quote:
What I do appreciate is the engineer's kindness of an over-built production engine. A little known Japanese IRON block, for example, with high flowing DOHC, 4 valve/cyl head on an engine that didnt come turbo from the factory, will STILL make 550+whp reliably entirely stock (and still uses flat bucket lifters). Never ever heard of cam problems.


And there are lots of engines like this from a number of manufacturers.

BuickGN's 3.8L for example.

The 4.6L modular Ford found in the '03/'04 Cobra, will handle over 1,000RWHP on the stock internals no problem.

The 5.4L in the Ford GT.

The 5.4L in the Mustang GT500.

The Ford 427 SOHC from the sixties, 657HP bone stock.

The Ford BOSS 429

The Chrysler 426 HEMI

The aluminum-headed GM 427

The 340 Mopar

Ford's BOSS 302

Ford's 351 Cleveland

and the list goes on......


Quote:
When you do these things on a BBx, the springs have to return NEEDLESS amounts of MASS in a timely fashion; the pushrod and the HUGE single valve need a spring strong enough. But install a spring strong enough and lobes go missing. This is where problems come in. You and bubba are right in this case, does he really need such high spring rates for his redline? and the engine builder should have matched the right parts, either lower spring rates and flat tappets or his existing springs and rollers all over. But that's just whatcha gotta deal with, I spose. Perhaps I can't pin this one on FORD (although I don't find cam in block designs to lubricate as well as a OHC where each lobe gets dipped in oil on each revolution), but you can't blame the lube either.


It is a big engine, with huge cylinders, and with huge cylinders, come huge valves. Even if it was retrofitted with overhead cams and 4-valve heads, because of the bore size, the valves could still be quite large.

Ford's 427 SOHC had massive valves in an overhead cam configuration. They also made a DOHC version of the small block Windsor in the early 60's that ran in the Ford/Lotus Indy car.

The mass is hardly needless. It is present due to the size of the engine. An engine of a family that Jon Kaase (I don't know if you are familiar with the name) manages to massage in the neighbourhood of 2,000HP from ALL MOTOR and allows the Purvis Ford racing team to run bottom 6's at well over 200Mph with.

What I fail to see is the logic with the continued use of flat tappets in these engines. Roller kits are relatively inexpensive and completely eliminate this headache. Ford went roller on the Windsor in 1985 in the Mustang, it is not like this is something new for those familiar with engines from the blue oval. People continue to use flat tappet because the cams are cheap and so are the lifters.

As far as cam-in-block lubrication, I have owned FOUR good 'ol cam-in-block 302's, one of which is STILL flat tappet! That's in my 1978 Glasstron. The one in my Mustang has the ORIGINAL cam bearings (all of them do actually) in it, and is on its third camshaft. The bearings look brand new, and I'm still using the ORIGINAL lifters! That engine has had the LIVING SNOT driven out of it. There is no lubrication problem. It is obviously roller.

And to clarify, I never blamed the lube. It was likely the break-in procedure or improper setup that caused the issue.


:) Very nice! I like the Kaase example; to run 6's all motor is definately respect worthy, no question! Nothing short of cubes can do that, and I guess thats what makes them exclusive. Honestly, I've always wanted to do a boosted SBC, with one of the smaller, more obscure geometries like a 267 for it's near square bore/stroke or a 262 for it's smaller bore. Even when thinking american muscle, i'm a romantic
crackmeup2.gif


BuickGN, get ready for the 'ricer respect' for your car, after the Fast and Furious (#4) hits the theatres. They put Vinnie behind the wheel of a GN!
crazy2.gif
 
Originally Posted By: saaber1
In the post he said it ruined the cam in only 3000 miles! jimandmandy got him straightened out a little farther down in the thread. Is jimandmandy on BITOG? He should be if not.


I am Freaksh0w on that site, with the 86 5.0. I posted in that thread. I've talked to jimandmandy on this site. He seems like he comes here, but I am not sure.
 
I have the same engine with a flat tappet hydralic cam that was built by me from scratch for a 1969 Mach1 8 years ago.
The car is back now for more power, Aluminum heads larger cam etc.
I put in 8 years ago Amsoil 20w50 ARO product code, and we left it in for all this time. he put about 15,000 miles driving to car shows.
Now that I have pulled the engine to add in more power, I am able to inspect the engine, perfectly clean, no measurable wear on the cylinders and the ISKY Camshaft and lifters are in excellent shape.
I purchased a COMP CAMS Hydraulic Cam and lifters to pump up the power and in the instructions it does mention the addition of oil additives to help with the breakin of the cam.
With all that said and done, my personal car a 1969 Ranchero has a 351W flat tappet solid lift Crane cam with 140lbs seat pressure and 340lbs on the nose"valve open".
the Camshaft I purchased USED! I put new lifters in and started the engine.
Years ago I would pull the inner spring to break in the cam.
Now I just purchase Amsoil 10w40 AMO or the ARO 20w50, install that oil in my new engine and start it up.
1500 rpm for 20 minutes and thats it!
Life is much easier and I dont even change the breakin oil, just a filter swap.
The 460 above I did 8 years ago the breakin oil stayed and even the Amsoil SDF oil filter lasted all this time.
No damage of any kind and I will be doing the same here in a few short weeks.
Sorry to hear other people with similar engines are not having as goo results as I have had
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There are quite a few aftermarket cams and lifters that are made from poo-poo metal. I have seen more than a few cams wear out prematurely. I had an Isky cam wear out 2 lobs in less than 2 years (
I have seen bad cams from. Isky, Crane, CompCams, Sig Erson, and maybe some others. Never saw a bad factory cam.
 
Originally Posted By: Max_Wander
Ford designed engines aren't exactly the beacon of reliability now are they...



I'd rank Ford right up there with Mopar at the top of the heap of very reliable engines. I'd be hard-pressed to think of a "bad" Ford engine, apart from some pretty widespread teething problems with the early Modular v8s (particularly the 5.4) but that was nearly 15 years ago! Same for Mopar, about the only blemish on that record in the past 40 years was the early 2.7L v6, and some head gasket problems with the first years of the 2.0 4-banger.

GM gets good mostly good marks from me also, but they've had more misfires. Vega. Early Northstar (and the fact that its STILL uber-expensive to service). Quad-4. HT4100. V8-6-4. 3.1/3.4 intake manifold gaskets. Etc.
 
Originally Posted By: SnakeOil
I think people get too wound up on zinc content for older vehicles, but I still wouldn't even consider anything other than VR1 in a high performance Detroit big block.


I agree, ZDDP is most critical during cam breakin, and after that much less so. Now if you're running monster valve springs with 600-lb seated pressure, different story ;-)

My daily driver (well, half-time now that I alternate it with the Jeep) is a '66 Dodge Polara with a 440 Magnum clone ('72 block and crank, '75 '452' casting heads) that I built for it 3-1/2 years ago. Its a very simple build, and I went with a flat-tappet cam (the Mopar Performance Magnum/Roadrunner/Commando reproduction grind, a dual-pattern 464/484 lift cam) just because I really like the way that cam works in the original 440 Magnums like my '69 Coronet R/T. It can idle with the AC on in traffic all day and still have more 'nads when you get on it than a typical "RV" grind, and it works better with a full exhaust system than a bigger single pattern grind like the MP 509. If I had it to do again (and someday I will just for giggles) I'd drop the static compression a tick, run aluminum heads like the Edelbrock Performers, and run a milder roller cam- basically a much more "modern" mild street build.

But back to oil- I'm running original style Mopar valve springs with inner dampers, shimmed for a seat pressure of a bit under 200 lb. I broke the cam in with MP break-in lube and Castrol GTX 10w40. Then I switched it straight to Mobil 1 10w30 (SL) and ran that for 20,000 miles. Then M1 SM came out and I used that for another 6k miles or so, then decided to try Rotella T Synthetic. Loved that, but now experimenting with RP 0w40 SM. Jury's still out on whether the engine really likes it, I'll probably go back to RTS. A few weeks ago I had the intake off, and the cam looked absolutely *beautiful*, even after 30k of SL and SM oil.

I may have jinxed myself by mentioning it here, but I really believe that 99% of the flat-tappet cams out there will be just *fine* on SM oil.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
Originally Posted By: SnakeOil
I think people get too wound up on zinc content for older vehicles, but I still wouldn't even consider anything other than VR1 in a high performance Detroit big block.


I agree, ZDDP is most critical during cam breakin, and after that much less so. Now if you're running monster valve springs with 600-lb seated pressure, different story ;-)

My daily driver (well, half-time now that I alternate it with the Jeep) is a '66 Dodge Polara with a 440 Magnum clone ('72 block and crank, '75 '452' casting heads) that I built for it 3-1/2 years ago. Its a very simple build, and I went with a flat-tappet cam (the Mopar Performance Magnum/Roadrunner/Commando reproduction grind, a dual-pattern 464/484 lift cam) just because I really like the way that cam works in the original 440 Magnums like my '69 Coronet R/T. It can idle with the AC on in traffic all day and still have more 'nads when you get on it than a typical "RV" grind, and it works better with a full exhaust system than a bigger single pattern grind like the MP 509. If I had it to do again (and someday I will just for giggles) I'd drop the static compression a tick, run aluminum heads like the Edelbrock Performers, and run a milder roller cam- basically a much more "modern" mild street build.

But back to oil- I'm running original style Mopar valve springs with inner dampers, shimmed for a seat pressure of a bit under 200 lb. I broke the cam in with MP break-in lube and Castrol GTX 10w40. Then I switched it straight to Mobil 1 10w30 (SL) and ran that for 20,000 miles. Then M1 SM came out and I used that for another 6k miles or so, then decided to try Rotella T Synthetic. Loved that, but now experimenting with RP 0w40 SM. Jury's still out on whether the engine really likes it, I'll probably go back to RTS. A few weeks ago I had the intake off, and the cam looked absolutely *beautiful*, even after 30k of SL and SM oil.

I may have jinxed myself by mentioning it here, but I really believe that 99% of the flat-tappet cams out there will be just *fine* on SM oil.


just under 200lbs seat pressure?
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are you sure the seat pressure is that high?
you mention you are using a OEM grind with less than .500 lift?
normal seat pressure for flat tappet cams are in the 80/140lbs range, not 200lbs.
over the nose, valve at full lift spring pressure should be in the 250lb to 380lb for flat tappet hyd or solid.
Note these are minimum and maximum values.
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