Called BMW, their recommended brands of 5w-30 are not surprising...

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quote:

I think you might have opened up "Pandora's Box" with that statement.

...I've been hanging out with John too much!

...apparently, dealers are being squeezed by the manufacturers on warranty work. Denials abound. Beware! Moss-Magnusen Act does not apply to cars whose service is provided free during the warranty period. ie Euro.
 
The Amsoil 0w-30/5w-30 & 10w-30 use an additive chemistry that meets the BMW Longlife requirements. Running 12k-15k mile drain intervals with an engine that gets 25 mpg and has a 7.5 quart sump is childs play ...

For the 330i:

OCI = (120)(25)(7.5)(200/225)

OCI = approx 20,000 miles

The engineers at BMW understand lubrication pretty well ...
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quote:

...an additive chemistry that meets the BMW Longlife requirements

Does that mean it meets the specs and carrys the BMW certification ?
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PS I wish Audi ran a bigger sump
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quote:

Also, I see American-car owners chiming in. I would not take my car to a Ford Dealer either, but that standerd narely applies to Euro car dealers where service is inclusive and training goes beyond backyard tear-downs.

Uh oh, TSoA.....I think you might have opened up "Pandora's Box" with that statement.
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It means exactly what it says, that Amsoil is perfectly fine to use in BMW engines that are under warranty and meets all the performance requirements for the BMW longlife spec. The local BMW dealer was considering using the Amsoil 20w-50 in the M3 engines, until Castrol came out with their 10w-60 as a bandaid for this defective design.

Most of my personal experience with Amsoil and BMW's is with older models, however. I've had excellent results in the 3/5 series engines, including the 2.7L, 3.3L and 3.5L variants ....

Tooslick
 
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I also called the number in the owners manual about oils. What I was told is that BMW
recommends: 5w30 Mobil 1,Castrol Syntec and
Valvoline SynPower . These are to be used only
for top up. I told him I used Castrol Syntec
at my in-between oil change at the dealer and
he said that was OK. He went on to say that if
the oil change interval is kept at 25000 km then
BMW High Performance Synthetic oil MUST be used.
This conversation was before I discovered this
forum. The BMW oil is made by Castrol in Europe
and is a true long life synthetic. I will use it
on my 25000km(15000 mile) sevice oil changes.
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The BMW Longlife spec is loosely based on the generic ACEA "A3/B4" specs, so most 0w-30 and 5w-30 oils won't be thick enough to meet the HT/HS requirement of 3.5 Cp @ 150C ...

TS
 
No, the BMW 5-30 is made by Castrol N.A. to BMW specs. It is different than Syntec 5-30 by the smell test and the fact that Syntec is A1 vs. BMW synth. at A3. Guess they have the BMW required addatives.

In either case, having personally gone 175k on my current BMW with extensive use of the BMW 5-30 synth. I would strongly recommend either the just now available BMW 0-40 OR Syntec 5-50 as the 5-30 can't cut the mustard w.r.t. even 10k mi. intervals which my car requests. And the Syntec 5-30 can't cut the mustard to begin with due to it's A1 rating (same as M-1's 5-30).
 
quote:

And the Syntec 5-30 can't cut the mustard to begin with due to it's A1 rating

Right now, all 30 weight grades of Syntec meet ACEA A5. (HT/HS >3.2)
 
TSoA,

I am not trying to fuel the fires, but do you have affiliations with any oil companies? Do you receive any money, free products, or support from any oil companies? Do you work in the industry?

I will repeat, I am not trying to stir the pot, but assertain if there any any types of biases that you may have.

Thanks

Cary
 
I checked again and have not seen ANY bottles of Syntec 5-30 or 10-30 with an A5 rating on the shelves. In either case, A1 has the same specs as an A5 ie. stipulating an HT/HS 2.9 - 3.5 mPa.s.. The only difference is the extended drain capability for an A5 rating which pretty much any synth. should have (compared to a conv.). Both ratings have the stipulation "may be unsuitable for use in some engines".

Whereas, the BMW 5-30 synthetic (also made by Castrol N.A.) is labelled A3 (as is the GC 0-30). So M-1 5-30, Syntec 5-30 and any other OTC 5-30's are not in the same league as the BMW 5-30 synthetic. In either case, IMHO I still think it's inadequate (along with the others).
 
Dr T,

I'm not impressed with most of Castrols low viscosity offerings (except the GC, 0w-30), but that's no reason to think that all 0w-30 or 5w-30 synlubes are junk. The Amsoil 5w-30 - particularly their Series 3000 - and the Redline 5w-30 are extremely robust oils. I'd have no quams about recommending them for any high performance application. I have no doubt that the Series 3000, 5w-30 will easily last for 10,000 miles in my 1.8L, 225 hp Audi TT engine and still have a significant safety margin at the end of that interval. The Redline 5w-30 and 5w-40 have also shown excellent results in this application, as well as the Subaru turbo motors ....Both the Amsoil Series 3000 and Redline will also keep your engine extremely clean, even with drain intervals > 20,000 km.

You should try using a decent PAO/Ester based, 0w-30 or 5w-30 synthetic in the wintertime in Canada. It will perform much better in subfreezing temps than that 10w-60 bunker oil you're running ...
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I have no problem with running 20w-50 or 10w-60 in the summer in a very Hp motor, but not when it's really cold outside and your equilibrium oil temps are much lower.

Tooslick
Dixie Synthetics
 
Dr. T, I sent the Castrol tech people an email a while back pointing out that their latest tech data sheet had numerous errors. I still have not received the new corrected tech data sheet. I will send you the PDF if I ever get it from Castrol. We have Castrol Syntec with the current ACEA ratings on sale now here in the USA.

The latest Castrol North America Syntec European ACEA ratings are:
code:

Syntec 0W-30 A3/B3/B4

Syntec 5W-30 A5/B1

Syntec 10W-30 A5/B1

Syntec 10W-40 A3/B3

Syntec 5W-40 A3/B3/B4

Syntec 5W-50 A3/B3

Syntec 20W-50 A3/B3/B4



BMW HP Syn 5W-30 A3/B3

Castrol Formula RS 0W-40 A3/B3/B4

TWS Motorsport 10W-60 A3/B3




[ November 26, 2003, 07:37 AM: Message edited by: Patman ]
 
Thicker oils also provide some other things -

Increased oil temperatures.
More cold start rattle from the longer time to full oil flow.

These are good things?
 
What you need to look at is reasons for your statements:

1. higher temps. From what? A thicker viscosity? Com'mon...the engine temps is determined by the cooling system. The oil does provide for some secondary cooling by virtue of being right in the piston, but ALL oil see the same temperature whether you're using a 0-30 or a 25-70. If you're worried about temps...get an oil cooler. If anything, a thicker oil can take the heat better whereas a 0-20 will be going out the tailpipe. This is more important than some perceived notion that a thicker oil causes your engine to run hotter.

2. cold rattle. What is it from? I've experienced this....but, so have others that use a 30 weight. Not that I'm an engine expert, but I've deduced it to a stuck/worn lifter. Cold temps. exacerbate the problem. What's the fix...I'm not sure...a. replace lifter b. auto-rx. c. I'm currently having good results with f.s. cleaners.
 
Not to belabor the thin vs. thick perpetual argument but...

First, as I've said many times along with many others here, there is an optimum weight for any given engine and conditions. Thinner isn't always better, nor is thinner.

To point one, I don't have to guess, I've measured the differences. I've seen cases where simply going from a 10W-40 to a 20W-50 would raise oil temps by as much as 20 degrees. But don't believe me, use the search feature on this very site. I think you'll find more people reporting lower oil temps with thinner oils than the other way around, everything else being roughly equal.

To the second point, I can only base this "startup rattle with thicker oils" observation on 2 engines in particular. A Toyota 3TC, and a Nissan VG30E. Both of these engines are solid lifter designs so the "sticky/worn lifter problem" doesn't wash. In both cases using thicker oils, especially in colder months caused noticeably more startup noise for a longer period of time. There was also a noticeable difference between the time full oil pressure was achieved, with the time advantage going to the lighter oils. It doesn't matter how much the oil "clings to the parts" if a load moves the oil away before adequate oil flow can replace it. Thinner oils flow better when cold, it's part of their definition.

The last point I think I should make, before we all go on believing what we did before is to point out the UOA's turned in by some of the new 0W-20 and 5W-20 oils. UOA's don't lie about engine wear and many if not most of the UOA's with the new 20 weight oils are excellent. We can all go on thinking they are too thin until pigs fly in small circles but if the UOA's show almost no wear, I'm going to say the oil is doing it's job...

[ November 25, 2003, 09:43 PM: Message edited by: jsharp ]
 
As much as I'd like to believe there are better and better 30 weight oils out there, the bottom line is they are only a 30 weight. Doesn't mean much to some here and it didn't mean a **** of a lot to me a short while ago.

However, going up in viscosity provides:

1. smoother running engine. No bucking during low speeds, tighter feel, lowered NVH.

2. reduced consumption. This, in turn allows for a cleaner oil longer.

3. increased compression due to better cylinder seal. Allows for better low-end torque.

4. cold weather? I've found oil sticking (clumping?) to the dipstick at cold temps. like never before...does this not mean the parts are coated/protected? Who needs a 0W..unless you're in Alaska?

5. better protection during severe operation...eg. 7k rpm.

6. fuel economy? After engine cleaning (getting rid of garbage from running thin oil) occurs, the fuel economy returns to original levels.

and the list goes on and on...

My point being that besides the percieved notion that there are "excellent" 30 weight oils out there, the car performs entirely different with thicker viscosities...in a positive way.
 
I made a mistake on my earlier post about the current ACEA ratings of Castrol Syntec.
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Sorry about the confusion. The Syntec 5W-30 and 10W-30 are both rated ACEA A5/B1.

[ November 26, 2003, 07:17 AM: Message edited by: Sin City ]
 
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