I'm sitting here looking at a pan with a welded bung and a flange warped by the welding. I know it should never happen if one is careful, but I think a wide angle punch with a flange that shapes the hole is the way to go. It's the simple direct solution. Not just a hole, but a shaped opening ready for the adapter threads, with angles that match.
Bypass return on pressure side?
- Thread starter kgcobra320
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I understand the process completely. My statement was not meant to infer that using the punch method was wrong or that you are stupid. It's just not the way I would do it....that's all, plain and simple, personal preference. As I have said numerous times now I am overly picky and paranoid, probably to a fault. In defense though...I'm sure that Frantz would not sell as many filters if they had insisted that the only method to attach to the oil pan was with a welded in bung.
There are potential problems with both methods.
Would a sandwich filter adapter have the same drawbacks as what the original post has? Seems to me that the sandwich adapter would give a very clean installation.
Thanks
Kenny
***** Saves!!
John 3:16
Thanks
Kenny
***** Saves!!
John 3:16
I do not know if you can find a metal oil filler cap on eBay. That was what I did. I drilled a hole on the metal cap and installed a swivel fitting from Frantz. It is a bit inconvenient for this setup when to add oil but is easy to set up. The drawback in my case is that some oil is drawn to PCV valve such that I have to install an oil catch can.
Another suggestion is to return oil thru the oil drain plug. You will need to buy a specil plug.
Another suggestion is to return oil thru the oil drain plug. You will need to buy a specil plug.
I cannot remember for sure on the 4.6, but I think you might have another option.
You don't want to pull the valve cover to drill and tap it, but what about doing just the filler neck?
You could probably stuff some foam down into the filler neck that would catch anything that fell while you drilled and tapped.
That would be a good return point.. I return my bypass to the oil cap (different engine) and I'm very happy with the way it works. I didn't have to deal with exactly what you are dealing with right now.
You don't want to pull the valve cover to drill and tap it, but what about doing just the filler neck?
You could probably stuff some foam down into the filler neck that would catch anything that fell while you drilled and tapped.
That would be a good return point.. I return my bypass to the oil cap (different engine) and I'm very happy with the way it works. I didn't have to deal with exactly what you are dealing with right now.
kgcobra, ihave tried the sandwich adapter approch on my cars (4runner/landcruiser) both vehicles exibit hight oil pressures into the 90s at start up and 70s at hot cruise rpms, with that said, both the frantz and the gulfcoast 01jr i have leaked (a lot) the frantz with the old band clamp will leak with those pressures. and the 01jr has a working press of (i think) 75 psi. so i took the pressure line to the units and installed a smaller orifice (about a #50 drill) and ran the returns lines to the oil filler caps, on the cruiser i have installed a pressure gauge in the press line after the orifice and am getting about 20 psi inside the canister. good luck in which ever route you take
According to my tests with a Frantz filter, you get great results with a 4-5 PSI drop across the filter. That is enough pressure to get oil through the filter and not so much that you end up blowing contaminates out the filter, which can happen with the zero pressure return line. To accomplish this you are already on your way with the remote filter mount. Now "all" you need to do is install a sandwich adapter on the rempte mout and put your TP filter input line at the inlet side of the sandwich adapter, and your exit from the TP at the exit from the full flow filter. Using a Permacool sandwich adapter is supposed to give you 2PSI pressure differential. In my experience you need to actually measure the pressure drop in normal driving conditions. I am fairly certain that you will need an additional 1/16 inch hole drilled in the adapter to give a constant 2PSI drop across the sandwich for your engine. You have the instruments to measure it, so you are set to do the job scientifically. With the sandwich adapter and the pressure drop across the full flow you will be pulling 4-5 psi pressure across the Frantz, which I think is very close to an "ideal" pressure drop.I am no expert, but I think that the full engine pressure drop incurred by returning flow to an unpressurized area is not the "hot setup" for the Frantz type TP filters
Another thing to consider is that when you go to the valve cover or filler neck you don't have drainage from the filter (I have a motorguard). I have an old mercedes 300CD turbo and going to the pan is not an option. I go to the valve cover above the no. 2 cylinder for the return, and when I change my filter, I remove it from the bracket and hang it from the hood (extra hose length)and crack the handle.
I have yet to install the bypass filter! Too
busy trying to reinvent the darn thing. I think
that I've settled in on a TP filter, just trying
to come up with a way to package it.
You have renewed my interest in the original
concept though. My remote filter is a canister
type so the sandwich adapter won't work but the
housing is very thick aluminum. I could tap the
housing on the input and output sides and install
some temporary pressure gauges to see if I have
enough delta. If not I could always just plug
one of the holes and return the conventional way.
KG
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You could have just drilled a very small hole in the sandwhich adapter to bring the pressure down. I assume that you used a Permacool. Some higher volume applications requre a hole to return pressures to normal. You must have a pressure sender tapped pre-filter. I would have used the smallest drill bit and added more holes until I reached some comfort zone.
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