Trying to put an MG on my 2007 Corolla. I wanted to use a Perma-cool universal sandwich adapter but it is too large in diameter for the Corolla's full flow filter mount so it leaked. I wanted to use the sandwich adapter for it's ease of removal in case I need to take the car in for warranty work. Before I start punching a hole in the oil pan, has anyone else had this problem and how did you solve it?
Bypass on Corolla
- Thread starter tigrpal
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Just punch a hole in the pan. If you want you can get two plugs and remove it for dealer service if you think it is necessary. They will never notice the plugs because there are there to change parts and fluids not look at anything. The mechanics that do the routine service may not know what anything under the hood if it's not one of the parts they change.
The "Universal" one is a bit larger than the standard one for 3/4 - 16 size filter mounts. You could also shave off some of the diameter.
That won't solve the problem. The adapter fits fine in the space but the problem is that the outside diameter of the full flow mounting surface is slightly smaller than the o-ring gasket on the adapter. I checked around today. The smallest sandwich adapter o-ring is 2.5". The outside diamter of the full flow mounting surface is 2.48". Just small enough to leak.
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I was thinking one for a Harley ..but that too looks like it would be too big for your needs.
Even the Flexalite one designed for Corollas says 2.5" O ring.
What's wrong with the filler cap return? That's easier to remedy than a hole in the pan.
Even the Flexalite one designed for Corollas says 2.5" O ring.
What's wrong with the filler cap return? That's easier to remedy than a hole in the pan.
Hmm. I wonder if they made the mounting surface smaller in the new generation. I have a 2000 Prizm and didn't have any leaks when I had one on there. Another idea is to take off the gasket from one of those micro PH4967/PL14476(7) oil filters and put it on the inside of the o-ring on the inner edge of the perma-cool mount. That should work. If not, then you could use RTV sealant on the inside mounting flange. But, I think the smaller gasket idea will work as it should fit inside the perma-cool gasket on the inner flange of the mount (I'm looking at one as I write this).
[quote
Hmm. I wonder if they made the mounting surface smaller in the new generation. I have a 2000 Prizm and didn't have any leaks when I had one on there. Another idea is to take off the gasket from one of those micro PH4967/PL14476(7) oil filters and put it on the inside of the o-ring on the inner edge of the perma-cool mount. That should work. If not, then you could use RTV sealant on the inside mounting flange. But, I think the smaller gasket idea will work as it should fit inside the perma-cool gasket on the inner flange of the mount (I'm looking at one as I write this).
These are both ideas I am considering. If I use a filter gasket, I'm a little afraid of it slipping to the side and then I have a major leak.
Gary, regarding the oil cap return, the cap is just south of the PCV valve. If I have a problem drawing too much oil into the valve will I know that right away? Lots of smoke out the tailpipe?
Hmm. I wonder if they made the mounting surface smaller in the new generation. I have a 2000 Prizm and didn't have any leaks when I had one on there. Another idea is to take off the gasket from one of those micro PH4967/PL14476(7) oil filters and put it on the inside of the o-ring on the inner edge of the perma-cool mount. That should work. If not, then you could use RTV sealant on the inside mounting flange. But, I think the smaller gasket idea will work as it should fit inside the perma-cool gasket on the inner flange of the mount (I'm looking at one as I write this).
These are both ideas I am considering. If I use a filter gasket, I'm a little afraid of it slipping to the side and then I have a major leak.
Gary, regarding the oil cap return, the cap is just south of the PCV valve. If I have a problem drawing too much oil into the valve will I know that right away? Lots of smoke out the tailpipe?
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I would hope that it wouldn't be that radical. I would expect for you to see unexplained consumption.
Is the oil fill baffled/shielded? That is, is the valve train visible? If yes, then you can reason that it's whipping oil all around there in varied volumes depending on speed.
Yes there is a baffle just under the cap. So that is good because it already means that there is a lot of oil there and it's likely to be baffled away from the PCV valve?
Another question - most people who use the oil fill cap for return buy a second cap rather than drill through the OEM cap?
Another question - most people who use the oil fill cap for return buy a second cap rather than drill through the OEM cap?
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I don't know. It may very well share the same baffle with the PCV valve. If they're the same (over a few years), see if anyone has a image of the interior of the valve cover. That would tell you for sure.
(think of a survey/study disclaimer "of those having a preference")
Most do it for a couple of reasons. They want to return it to OEM without hassle if they need to remove it. They may also figure that there may be a learning curve to the rigging in a way that works into their idea of acceptable. A wisdom over knowledge/experience/skill type thing. For some, this type of cross adaptive fabrication isn't part of their regular skill inventory. Many of us stopped playing with blocks way too early ..while some never stopped.
You don't want to screw up your oil cap on the Saturday or Sunday during your install and find that you can't complete the task ..and have no viable way to drop back and punt since the dealer's closed. Most have way more important stuff to dwell on before they can get back to it. They don't need the nagging distraction to their more immediate needs for concentration.
Gary,
Here are a few shots;
With Corollas lasting forever with normal filtering (my last few Insol showed low numbers) wonder why you would even go through and install a bypass?
Anyway, here are the shots of the baffle.
bill
Here are a few shots;
With Corollas lasting forever with normal filtering (my last few Insol showed low numbers) wonder why you would even go through and install a bypass?
Anyway, here are the shots of the baffle.
bill
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Thanks, Bill. I can't figure what they have in mind here.
you can get a sandwich adapter to fit ..try ebay ..here is one just run a search on ebay for sandwich adapter .. there are ones designed for the foreign car mart http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Sensor-Sa...sspagenameZWDVW
A bypass is not necessary and really is a waste of tp.I would say adding a bypass adds more of a problem than any it will solve.
Who do you have stock in? GM, Chrysler, Yota? LOL.
The benefits of a bypass system are in the eye of the beholder. Feel free to not install one and let others tinker as they may.
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There is always a better mouse trap to be built. The old one did a good job ..but
Where would we be if that first caveman didn't roll that first log/boulder and continued to lift/drag it ...saying "that works good enough!"??
Where would we be if that first caveman didn't roll that first log/boulder and continued to lift/drag it ...saying "that works good enough!"??
The Mocal Sandwich Adapter has an oversized O-ring to fit a wide range of sizes. It has an ID of 2.2", and an OD of 2.85". That will work for you.
The engine life is mostly dependent on type of operation " how many warm up cycles per mile driven" and not a bypass filter.
Then why even have any kind of filter on there at all? Just put a block off plate on there and just change the oil occasionally. Hmmm. Maybe you don't even have to change the oil.
This is my opinion, and it may be wrong: I believe given two cars with exactly identical "warm up cycles per mile," that the one with a bypass filter on it will last longer. Just my opinion, and, it may be wrong, but I think not.
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