By-Pass Filters. Which One???

[RetiredPig]

I will be getting my new F-350 PSD, In a couple of weeks. I am trying to figure which oil By-Pass to go with.

I am leaning towards either the.

OIL Guard or AMSOIL.

Can anyone who has either of these filters give me the PROS or CONS

Thanks

 

[Steve S]

Why do you want a bypass filter?

 

[LateArrivalforLSU]

quote:

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Originally posted by Steve S:
Why do you want a bypass filter?

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Quite possibly because he wants clean oil lubricating his engine at all times, or it could be because he doesn't want abrasive particles floating around in his oil that the full flow filter can't catch. Maybe he doesn't like the expense, and hassle of having to drain and refill 15 qts. of oil at regular OCI's. Those were my reasons for installing a bypass filter.

If you will be installing a bypass system on a 6.0 PSD you are going to have to buy the oil filter replacement cap from Oil Guard so you can get your pressure feed.

The Oil Guard is messy has hades to change out. My Dad has one for now on his truck and I somehow get roped into changing the thing out for him. The Oil Guard element is $13 a pop w/o shipping. It doesn't have the depth media to filter as fine as a bypass filter should. Also, if you ever need to get in contact with someone in tech support there, forget it.

The Amsoil BMK-11 setup is a quality bypass filter. The only down fall is that the replacement spin on element is more pricey than the Oil Guard. You can go a heckuva long time on an element though. If you don't want to have to mess with changing out an element every 3K miles and topping off I would recommend the Amsoil bypass.

The Motor Guard or Frantz bypass uses a tightly wound roll of cellulose (toilet paper). I use Scott 1000 TP (buy it at Wal Mart, Target, etc...) The oil must pass through approximately 4 1/2 inches of depth media. By the time it goes through, the oil is super cleaned.

Oil Guard: Will not super clean like an Amsoil or Motor guard, and is messy to change. Elements are pricey.

Amsoil: Good bypass filter, but the elements are expen$ive......you won't have to change out the elements near as often as TP

Motor Guard: Cleans oil as good or better than the Amsoil. You have to change the roll every 3K miles or so, add another roll of TP (costs me .65 cents per roll) and top off (fresh oil added to the crankcase every 3K keeps add pack replenished, but adds a little more to the expense).

Here is one of my UOA's that had approximately 7k miles on the oil while using a TP bypass system (notice the comments under the evaluation/recommendation section). This is a link to my Motor Guard install on my 6.0 PSD. Best of luck....

 

[simple_gifts]

I think the OG could be messy if mounted in certain orientations. I have my EPS10 mounted high in the engine bay (drains naturally) and I can remove it from the bracket in 15 seconds. With enough extra hose I am able to open it in a vertical orientation so no oil drips out. I use a "paper or plastic" plastic bag to grab the oily filter and unscrew it. I don't spill a drop

 

[msparks]

quote:

---

Originally posted by RetiredPig:
I will be getting my new F-350 PSD, In a couple of weeks. I am trying to figure which oil By-Pass to go with.

I am leaning towards either the.

OIL Guard or AMSOIL.

Can anyone who has either of these filters give me the PROS or CONS

Thanks

---

Either way I would order the Oilguard, mounting kit, which contains a new oil filter cap for the pressure side and a return cap the replaces the oil filler cap. In all about $100 and worth it for a 6.0PSD.

As far as effeciency, I believe it's a wash. The Amsoil system if much easier to change out though as someone else said. Plus I like the fact that you just order different size filters if you want to chage the capacity. There is a 6" filter element, an 8" and a 10". The 10" is a full 2 quart capacity.

Hope this helps,

Michael

 

[JohnStra]

I have a Gulfcoast O-1 installed on my Cummins. Element changes are going to be MESSY, but for a diesel engine and its large oil capacity (and soot load) I prefer the larger element and it's worth the hassle. Also, the GC bypass gives me 6 additional quarts capacity, which I really like.
-john

 

[Dark Horse]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Go_Hogs_Go:

quote:

---

Originally posted by Steve S:
Why do you want a bypass filter?

---

Quite possibly because he wants clean oil lubricating his engine at all times, or it could be because he doesn't want abrasive particles floating around in his oil that the full flow filter can't catch. Maybe he doesn't like the expense, and hassle of having to drain and refill 15 qts. of oil at regular OCI's. Those were my reasons for installing a bypass filter.

If you will be installing a bypass system on a 6.0 PSD you are going to have to buy the oil filter replacement cap from Oil Guard so you can get your pressure feed.

The Oil Guard is messy has hades to change out. My Dad has one for now on his truck and I somehow get roped into changing the thing out for him. The Oil Guard element is $13 a pop w/o shipping. It doesn't have the depth media to filter as fine as a bypass filter should. Also, if you ever need to get in contact with someone in tech support there, forget it.

The Amsoil BMK-11 setup is a quality bypass filter. The only down fall is that the replacement spin on element is more pricey than the Oil Guard. You can go a heckuva long time on an element though. If you don't want to have to mess with changing out an element every 3K miles and topping off I would recommend the Amsoil bypass.

The Motor Guard or Frantz bypass uses a tightly wound roll of cellulose (toilet paper). I use Scott 1000 TP (buy it at Wal Mart, Target, etc...) The oil must pass through approximately 4 1/2 inches of depth media. By the time it goes through, the oil is super cleaned.

Oil Guard: Will not super clean like an Amsoil or Motor guard, and is messy to change. Elements are pricey.

Amsoil: Good bypass filter, but the elements are expen$ive......you won't have to change out the elements near as often as TP

Motor Guard: Cleans oil as good or better than the Amsoil. You have to change the roll every 3K miles or so, add another roll of TP (costs me .65 cents per roll) and top off (fresh oil added to the crankcase every 3K keeps add pack replenished, but adds a little more to the expense).

Here is one of my UOA's that had approximately 7k miles on the oil while using a TP bypass system (notice the comments under the evaluation/recommendation section). This is a link to my Motor Guard install on my 6.0 PSD. Best of luck....

---

How often must the AMSOIL bypass element typically be replaced? I realize that depends on many conditions, but assuming a 6 cylinder engine will need one TP replacement if using that as the bypass media .... in comparison, how often for AMSOIL?

 

[olympic]

25,000 miles or 1 year is what Amsoil recommends for the bypass elements. That's the routine I follow and it seems to be about right. On cleaner running equipment like a transmission, they can go much longer. I've gone 125,000 miles on the same bypass filter on a transmission and the filter was still working fine.

 

[LarryL]

You might be wrong about the OilGuard not cleaning well. We've had some on light duty diesel pickup trucks and they work well. I've changed them and don't get the messy part. They mount them with the ports on top and you just unscrew the cap. I also like the oil sample port. They replaced other filters because they require way less makeup oil. You are talking about OilGuard from Oceanside, California? I don't have the uoa's but the particle counts were better than the filters they replaced.