I think I'm going to buy an old pickup for hauling crap...maybe occassional towing of my boat. I want it to be pre 1975 so I don't have to go through emissions testing, and probably a Chevy because I want something with a 350. I would prefer an automatic transmission, but do you guys think that would be a bad idea on a truck this old? I don't really know much about old ATs, but I know even new ones don't usually last as long as manuals. What transmission am I likely to find in a late 60s to mid 70s chevy truck? Is it a good one?
Buying an old automatic transmission a bad idea?
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If it works good now and doesn't leak now, it should give you lots of reliable service.
The TH350 is the small block Chevy of automatic transmissions, they're good. They came out about 1969. Most Chevy automatic pickups in your year range should have one.
[ December 16, 2004, 10:48 PM: Message edited by: XS650 ]
The TH350 is the small block Chevy of automatic transmissions, they're good. They came out about 1969. Most Chevy automatic pickups in your year range should have one.
[ December 16, 2004, 10:48 PM: Message edited by: XS650 ]
Throw the biggest transmission cooler you can fit (or afford) onto that unit and you'll never have any trouble with it.
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These transmissions, in virtually any make of that vintage, are stout, reliable, and very cheap to fix compared to our contemporary junque.
If you do get something of this vintage, be a dear and go all the way through the braking system... lines, hoses, cylinders... etc. The new GM body style came out in 73; if you get one of those there's tons of stuff available. I'd look for front disc brakes if you're towing; maybe do some web search to see if they retrofit from a newer model if you find an older one you love.
I do lik the '60-something to '72 body style better...I'm looking for something that I *MIGHT* restore in the future. What kind of HP is a stock 350 of this vintage putting out? I think it would be quite funny to get it up to ~400hp and take it down to the drag strip...beating mustangs with an old beater!
My 72 Dodge 360 cubic inch PU was 180 HP IIRC. It was noticeably quicker than my neighbors 1972 350 Chevy PU.quote:
Originally posted by ZmOz:
I do lik the '60-something to '72 body style better...I'm looking for something that I *MIGHT* restore in the future. What kind of HP is a stock 350 of this vintage putting out? I think it would be quite funny to get it up to ~400hp and take it down to the drag strip...beating mustangs with an old beater!
Hot rodded old Chevy trucks ar so common that you wouldn't surprise many people unless you keep it looking like an old beater.
My neighbors Chevy was a lot better truck than my Dodge. The Dodge was a rattletrap tin can compared to the Chevy.
Look for electronic ignition and what octane gas it takes. Check out any smog stuff that might have started appearing; I doubt it has a cat for example but if it has a PCV system instead of a road draft tube that's probably a good thing. Count the lug nuts; eight would be more heavy duty than five or six. The motors started losing their compression ratios around then but that could have been delayed in trucks... and the engine could have been rebuilt to a more exciting spec over the last 30 years.
Look for rust in the cab mounts and corners, brake lines, lousy wiring... use any "hacks" (bound to be some) in negotiating a lower price.
Look for rust in the cab mounts and corners, brake lines, lousy wiring... use any "hacks" (bound to be some) in negotiating a lower price.
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You're probably looking at 75 for a electronic ignition. I'm not sure of the truck line ..but I think some Olds had it in 1974. The 3/4 ton and higher were emissions exempt 'til a few years later. That is, you can go newer the higher the weight rating. Very few emissions controls (plumbing-wise) on either my 75 C20 350 or my 78 C20 454. Neither required unleaded fuel.
Number one killer of that evolution in Chevy pickups. They would rot out from under you. Both mine, and I only had the 78 for one full year, were showing signs of rust.
I had a 1971 Chevy C10 many years ago. I still like that bodystyle. Front disc brakes were standard starting that year. It had less rust and rattles than newer (73-87) GM trucks. Like the others have said, automatic transmissions of that era, unlike later junk, are super reliable and cheap to fix.
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Maybe so ..but there were vastly different standards for the 3/4 ton and higher chassis during their manufacture. Leaded fuel wasn't required in 3/4 ton even in 1978 (maybe later-49 state) ..they kept raising the GVWR to include heavier and heavier chassis after that time. Unleaded fuel use in these vehicles resulted in allowing extended (not much) OCI in these engines.
I dunno if I would agree that a Auto would be best, reliable maybe, but horribly in-effcient.
For this reason I'd look towards a manual, much lighter in weight, mostly stronger, much more efficent and even cheaper to fix.
For this reason I'd look towards a manual, much lighter in weight, mostly stronger, much more efficent and even cheaper to fix.
A THC-350 weighs roughly the same as the manual trans+clutch+flywheel that is replaces.
A THC-350 weighs roughly the same as the manual trans+clutch+flywheel that is replaces.
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