On my 99 Avalon XLS, I have a constant problem with burning oil. Even if I start the engine for about 2 minutes, I can take the oil cap off and there will be oil smoke oozing out of the valve cover. Each OCI I am burning up anywhere from 1 to 1.5 qt. I don't have any blue smoke at all from the tailpipe, but with 132K on the clock some guys are calling this normal behavior for an engine, but is it???? I change the oil often enough (3-4k). My question is this, is it time to switch to the "high mileage" conventional oils?? I've been using Castrol GTX in my cars ever since I was a fetus.
Burning oil question
- Thread starter Jarpin
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Have you check the PCV system on your car. Sounds like it could be plugged up.
warranty is over, buy a new car, now you have a oil burner.
Im sort of kidding, my opinion your engine has plenty of burnt up Castrol deposits inside that are causing the oil compsumption.
the engine has wear.
not a new engine anymore.
cyliders are tapered from wear, larger at top than bottom of cylinder. piston ring closes up at bottom and opens up at top, dumping oil into combustion chamber, then exits tailpipe, add more oil!
oil just burns up no leaks?
this is why I dont like to use mineral oil cost more money in the long run.
Hey thats just my lousy opinion, nothing against you personally!
Im sort of kidding, my opinion your engine has plenty of burnt up Castrol deposits inside that are causing the oil compsumption.
the engine has wear.
not a new engine anymore.
cyliders are tapered from wear, larger at top than bottom of cylinder. piston ring closes up at bottom and opens up at top, dumping oil into combustion chamber, then exits tailpipe, add more oil!
oil just burns up no leaks?
this is why I dont like to use mineral oil cost more money in the long run.
Hey thats just my lousy opinion, nothing against you personally!
How many miles is the OCI? To lose a qt. and then changing oil rather than top up sounds ideal, if not desired. The cat conv will handle oil for a while, that is what is does burn un-burned HC's, but to much for to long will clog up/burn it out. If the smoke out of walve cover continues when engine is obviously warmed up, sounds like blow by around ring pack, and this would explain oil usage. You can clean rings by various means and situation will either improve or get worse, seems not to stay the same. In addition to valve deposits can be in the hoses that connect to engine, should check those as well.
Originally Posted By: Jarpin
Originally Posted By: Johnny
Have you check the PCV system on your car. Sounds like it could be plugged up.
you mean the PCV valve???
Yes, and any hoses attached to it.
Originally Posted By: Johnny
Have you check the PCV system on your car. Sounds like it could be plugged up.
you mean the PCV valve???
Yes, and any hoses attached to it.
Originally Posted By: Jarpin
On my 99 Avalon XLS, I have a constant problem with burning oil. Even if I start the engine for about 2 minutes, I can take the oil cap off and there will be oil smoke oozing out of the valve cover. Each OCI I am burning up anywhere from 1 to 1.5 qt. I don't have any blue smoke at all from the tailpipe, but with 132K on the clock some guys are calling this normal behavior for an engine, but is it???? I change the oil often enough (3-4k). My question is this, is it time to switch to the "high mileage" conventional oils?? I've been using Castrol GTX in my cars ever since I was a fetus.
It is not normal for a well maintained engine, especially a Toyota. Two months ago I sold my 1998 Camry XLE V6 3.0 (I think it had basically the same engine as yours) and it had no problems whatsoever. Clean as a whistle and never used any oil between changes. But I used Mobil 1 5W-30 for every single oil change (about 7K miles OCI).
Now this problem may not entirely be your fault, since this particular engine is known to have sludge problems. But if you had used a synthetic, I don't think you would be having those problems.
Do yourself a big favor, and next time use a synthetic, even if it is Walmart SuperTech. If you think it is too expensive, extend the OCI a bit up to the manufacturer warranty required OCI. Sometimes you can't avoid problems using a conventional oil, even if you change it every 3K miles or three months.
If you want to try something, try M1 High Mileage Oil and see if that works. Any other synthetic High Mileage Oil should also work.
On my 99 Avalon XLS, I have a constant problem with burning oil. Even if I start the engine for about 2 minutes, I can take the oil cap off and there will be oil smoke oozing out of the valve cover. Each OCI I am burning up anywhere from 1 to 1.5 qt. I don't have any blue smoke at all from the tailpipe, but with 132K on the clock some guys are calling this normal behavior for an engine, but is it???? I change the oil often enough (3-4k). My question is this, is it time to switch to the "high mileage" conventional oils?? I've been using Castrol GTX in my cars ever since I was a fetus.
It is not normal for a well maintained engine, especially a Toyota. Two months ago I sold my 1998 Camry XLE V6 3.0 (I think it had basically the same engine as yours) and it had no problems whatsoever. Clean as a whistle and never used any oil between changes. But I used Mobil 1 5W-30 for every single oil change (about 7K miles OCI).
Now this problem may not entirely be your fault, since this particular engine is known to have sludge problems. But if you had used a synthetic, I don't think you would be having those problems.
Do yourself a big favor, and next time use a synthetic, even if it is Walmart SuperTech. If you think it is too expensive, extend the OCI a bit up to the manufacturer warranty required OCI. Sometimes you can't avoid problems using a conventional oil, even if you change it every 3K miles or three months.
If you want to try something, try M1 High Mileage Oil and see if that works. Any other synthetic High Mileage Oil should also work.
My '92 Aerostar 3.0 V6 consumes a quart about every 1000 miles. No blue smoke. Good power. But I definintely don't have smoke out the oil filler hole. That would bother me, not the consumpion. Yeah, the PCV system is the first thing to check. I understand you can run a check of the PVC system with a vacuum gauge.
Replace the PCV valve, clean the hoses...start using Pennzoil Platinum. It will clean that engine a bit. After several OCI's reassess. Might be a good idea to auto-rx that thing. Unless you have a real caked on sludge monster I would bet PP will clean that engin up in 20-30k. I would not go past 5000 miles on an oil change with all the crud in there. Use a factory oil filter or purolator or napa/wix. I have run 4 Toyotas on PP and it keeps them clean. But you need to clean the pcv valve every 15,000 miles with some throtte body cleaner.
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If it's a sludger and burning oil, then the good fix for a sludger, Redline Oil, is too costly because of the consumption, so there may be no good answer.
Well how about a cautious engine flush regime and a high mileage oil? MaxLife?
That sounds like the best bet. Hey the dude lives in Texas so he could run straight weigh year round. I wonder if there is a advantage to straight weight for a sludger, that is, no VIIs to gum things up?
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Originally Posted By: Jarpin
On my 99 Avalon XLS, I have a constant problem with burning oil. Even if I start the engine for about 2 minutes, I can take the oil cap off and there will be oil smoke oozing out of the valve cover. Each OCI I am burning up anywhere from 1 to 1.5 qt. I don't have any blue smoke at all from the tailpipe, but with 132K on the clock some guys are calling this normal behavior for an engine, but is it???? I change the oil often enough (3-4k). My question is this, is it time to switch to the "high mileage" conventional oils?? I've been using Castrol GTX in my cars ever since I was a fetus.
Try removing the front valve cover (very easy to do), & check for sludge build-up. If it's there, see a Toyota dealer, as there is a special policy regarding engine repairs on your engine due to sludge damage. You may be due for a free engine!
On my 99 Avalon XLS, I have a constant problem with burning oil. Even if I start the engine for about 2 minutes, I can take the oil cap off and there will be oil smoke oozing out of the valve cover. Each OCI I am burning up anywhere from 1 to 1.5 qt. I don't have any blue smoke at all from the tailpipe, but with 132K on the clock some guys are calling this normal behavior for an engine, but is it???? I change the oil often enough (3-4k). My question is this, is it time to switch to the "high mileage" conventional oils?? I've been using Castrol GTX in my cars ever since I was a fetus.
Try removing the front valve cover (very easy to do), & check for sludge build-up. If it's there, see a Toyota dealer, as there is a special policy regarding engine repairs on your engine due to sludge damage. You may be due for a free engine!
Originally Posted By: newpassatt
Try removing the front valve cover (very easy to do), & check for sludge build-up. If it's there, see a Toyota dealer, as there is a special policy regarding engine repairs on your engine due to sludge damage. You may be due for a free engine!
I had the same engine in my 98 Camry V6, and a several years ago they sent me a notice that the warranty was extended due to lawsuits concerning sludge. I am not 100% sure, but I think he may have missed the extended warranty cutoff by now with a 99.
I don't have the extended warranty details anymore because I just traded my 98 Camry in two months ago, and the engine was as clean as whistle and ran perfectly, and never used any measurable amount of oil in the 11 years I owned it (I never once added any oil between changes and never needed to). Used Mobil 1 5W-30 starting with the first oil change and OCI of 6-7K.
Try removing the front valve cover (very easy to do), & check for sludge build-up. If it's there, see a Toyota dealer, as there is a special policy regarding engine repairs on your engine due to sludge damage. You may be due for a free engine!
I had the same engine in my 98 Camry V6, and a several years ago they sent me a notice that the warranty was extended due to lawsuits concerning sludge. I am not 100% sure, but I think he may have missed the extended warranty cutoff by now with a 99.
I don't have the extended warranty details anymore because I just traded my 98 Camry in two months ago, and the engine was as clean as whistle and ran perfectly, and never used any measurable amount of oil in the 11 years I owned it (I never once added any oil between changes and never needed to). Used Mobil 1 5W-30 starting with the first oil change and OCI of 6-7K.
I started using synthetic in a PRIZM ( Corolla ) at around 70,000+ miles and started to burn oil . Went back to conventional and used less if any oil . You may want to try a synthetic blend first . Such as PENNZOIL S.U.V. ( for cars too ) that is about 30% synthetic ( right or wrong JOHNNY ? ) or possibly MOTORCRAFT ( about 40% syn ) .
Originally Posted By: smokey1
I started using synthetic in a PRIZM ( Corolla ) at around 70,000+ miles and started to burn oil . Went back to conventional and used less if any oil . You may want to try a synthetic blend first . Such as PENNZOIL S.U.V. ( for cars too ) that is about 30% synthetic ( right or wrong JOHNNY ? ) or possibly MOTORCRAFT ( about 40% syn ) .
Many engines have problems with Group IV synthetics after moderate to significant engine wear has already occurred. Sometimes using a high viscosity (10W-40 or above) will help.
Everything I have heard is that synthetic blends are closer to 10-15% synthetic (at most), and that it is much cheaper to make your own synthetic blend.
I started using synthetic in a PRIZM ( Corolla ) at around 70,000+ miles and started to burn oil . Went back to conventional and used less if any oil . You may want to try a synthetic blend first . Such as PENNZOIL S.U.V. ( for cars too ) that is about 30% synthetic ( right or wrong JOHNNY ? ) or possibly MOTORCRAFT ( about 40% syn ) .
Many engines have problems with Group IV synthetics after moderate to significant engine wear has already occurred. Sometimes using a high viscosity (10W-40 or above) will help.
Everything I have heard is that synthetic blends are closer to 10-15% synthetic (at most), and that it is much cheaper to make your own synthetic blend.
Originally Posted By: smokey1
was told 40% by tech at KENDALL toll free help line . Jiving me , dunno .
I don't really know either. But if I wanted a synthetic blend, I would make my own, so that way I would know for sure (but I use full synthetic now).
Based on the good things I have read on this forum about Walmart SuperTech full synthetic, and that a fair amount of their conventional oil is supplied by ExxonMobil in many retail locations, that could a good mix to make my own synthetic blend if cost were a concern.
was told 40% by tech at KENDALL toll free help line . Jiving me , dunno .
I don't really know either. But if I wanted a synthetic blend, I would make my own, so that way I would know for sure (but I use full synthetic now).
Based on the good things I have read on this forum about Walmart SuperTech full synthetic, and that a fair amount of their conventional oil is supplied by ExxonMobil in many retail locations, that could a good mix to make my own synthetic blend if cost were a concern.
Johnny and PT1 are right about the PCV Valve. let me tell you something... My 2000 dodge has a 4.7 V8 in it and that motor is supposedly a known sludge monster ( i think mine is clean because it has 140400 miles on it and runs like new but these engines when badly sluged make it to about 100k) any how I had an oil consumption issue where i was going through about 1 - 1/2 quarts of oil between changes (3k oci). No smoke, no leaks, sometimes there would be smoke coming out of the oil fill cap when i would top it off. I found out on a dodge forum that these valves go bad pretty quickly, so I replaced it immediately and ever since then it has only used about 1/4-1/2 a quart between changes. for 140400 miles that's pretty [censored] good. If I were you I would go out and buy a replacement PCV valve, and a can of seafoam and do the following...
1) Pull the vacuum line off the Old PCV (with the engine running) and suck about 1/3 of the seafoam out of the can. (this will help clean the crud out of your vacuum line and clean carbon out of the engine as well. your car is going to smoke like a train. DON'T WORRY THAT IS PERFECTLY NORMAL)
2) Shut car off and dump another 1/3 of the can in the crank case and the rest of the can in the gas tank. Re start the car in five minutes.
3) Drive car on the freeway or a long stretch of road until smoke clears up.
4) Shut car off and let it sit for 1 hour.
5) drain out old motor oil and re fill with a quality synthetic like pp or M1 (quaker state is good too) or if you want to use a dino oil I recommend Pennzoil YB or Valvoline.
That is what i did to the durango and it ran way better than before. And don't worry your engine shouldn't blow up
1) Pull the vacuum line off the Old PCV (with the engine running) and suck about 1/3 of the seafoam out of the can. (this will help clean the crud out of your vacuum line and clean carbon out of the engine as well. your car is going to smoke like a train. DON'T WORRY THAT IS PERFECTLY NORMAL)
2) Shut car off and dump another 1/3 of the can in the crank case and the rest of the can in the gas tank. Re start the car in five minutes.
3) Drive car on the freeway or a long stretch of road until smoke clears up.
4) Shut car off and let it sit for 1 hour.
5) drain out old motor oil and re fill with a quality synthetic like pp or M1 (quaker state is good too) or if you want to use a dino oil I recommend Pennzoil YB or Valvoline.
That is what i did to the durango and it ran way better than before. And don't worry your engine shouldn't blow up
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