Broken sway bar link

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Since I knew the bleeder was stuck on the caliper I decided to just replace before the caliper froze (other side froze, so, matter of time). But before I started on that I had to remove a broken sway bar link. No idea when it broke, other than months ago, by the looks of the corrosion. It's a 20 year old car, rattles and noises are something to be ignored--maybe I heard something this fall, still hear it at times, no idea.

Anyhow, will run out tomorrow and get two Duralasts and slap in there.

Question is, outside of high speed maneuvering, what was I missing out on? I'm guessing there's a bit of suspension dampening but apart from high speed steering (let's be real, it's a Camry, that was never in the cards) I can't think of anything else it'd impact.
 
That's about it, body roll in curves and maneuvers.
My 2010 Camry LE does OK in the speed department.
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My Ford Ranger and F150 BOTH handle corners better with the front sway bar disconnected.

Yes - - there is a little more "body roll" - but steering/turning tire traction is improved (& much less oversteer)
 
Originally Posted by slacktide_bitog
The best ones to get are Sankei 555. You can get them at Napa
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His original lasted 20 years, it just a swaybar link. Anything will do just fine.
 
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I wouldn't remove the sway bar. It will make your car handle noticeably better. Any parts store should be able to get you end links as they go bad no matter what brand the car is, esp where they use salt.
 
Originally Posted by Lubener
Originally Posted by slacktide_bitog
The best ones to get are Sankei 555. You can get them at Napa
smile.gif


His original lasted 20 years, it just a swaybar link. Anything will do just fine.

Previous owner replaced them 2-3 years ago.

Tracking them down now, Napa isn't that much more expensive than the Duralasts.

Originally Posted by Silverado12
I wouldn't remove the sway bar. It will make your car handle noticeably better. Any parts store should be able to get you end links as they go bad no matter what brand the car is, esp where they use salt.

I didn't have a choice, it disconnected itself!
lol.gif


swaybarlink.webp
 
Before you go for parts you can get to work getting the old broken bits out of there. That nub down by the LCA is going to be fun. You can manipulate the height of the other wheel of the car to put tension on the sway bar to help.
 
Believe it or not it came out with ease. I only recall removing one end when I did the struts, but when I put it back together I was liberal with anti-seize.

Now watch the other side be completely frozen...
 
This won't help in your application but my brother and I kept breaking the links on our trucks, his Tahoe and my Suburban. We finally made our own with universal poly bushings and we upped the bolt diameter from 3/8 to 7/16. Haven't broken another one since.

If you shopped rod ends and tubing you could make some stronger ones.
 
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