Broke down and bought a snow blower, what oil?

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I got tired of shoveling my driveway 3-4 times per snow with the wind drifting it over again within a few hours. I went to the local Ace and bought a cheap, homeowner model. I bought a MTD branded Yard Machines 21" with a 123cc Honda knock-off on it. Save the MTD & clone bashing, don't want to hear it.

I have been impressed with the thing so far. The little 123cc is probably in the 3 HP range and it has a lot of guts. It only starts to bog down when you stuff it into drifts taller than it is, but then that is me just testing the limits of an already anemic machine and isn't the fault of the machine. The thing starts on the 2nd pull, every time. The first pull brings about a stutter and second pull it roars to life.

I am amazed at how little fuel it uses. It holds 2 quarts and for my driveway that is a healthy 2 cars wide and 3 cars long it uses about 8-10 ounces to move 6+ inches of snow and eat through the 12+ inch drifts.

Oil is 5w30 and some of the literature recommends a 5w30, some stuff specifically calls for 5w30 synthetic and then the chart shows 5w30 or 0w-30 synthetic. For no more use than this thing will see I will probably just use left over 5w30 M1 from my uncle in it and change every spring when I store it. I will be doing a few short changes to flush out any garbage from the manufacturing that some of these clones are claimed to have in them.

I figure for $350 if it lasts a few years and I can make $20 a driveway for neighbors, I won't be hurt.
 
Don't forget to grease it and spray it with some sort of metal protector before long term storage to prevent rust and you're golden.
 
Originally Posted By: dave123
Whatever 5w30 or 0w30 you have on hand.


What he said. I just use whatever I have kicking around. Usually 5W30 never more than 10w30. One change per year if I remember. Most only have 1/2 to 3/4 litre of oil.
 
Whatever you have... I use SuperTech or Farm & Fleet 5w30 synthetic in mine, and not worry a bit.

Mine is an MTD, and I don't care what the MTD bashers say either...
 
Originally Posted By: dave123
Whatever 5w30 or 0w30 you have on hand.




The OP is at about the same latitude as I, and I have had good luck with 0W30.
 
GC 0w-30 in my 30" MTD snowblower. It takes a quart that I change in the spring before I put it away. I couldn't think of anything better.
 
If you have a WalMart nearby look at getting some Mobil 1 HM 5W-30. It's rated SL so it may be better suited to the flat tappet engines than SN oils. OPE oils seem to be rated in the SJ to SL range from what I see. Briggs and Stratton sells a fully synthetic 5W-30 oil. You can get it at Lowe's, $5.98/qt. Go to the post office and get a Lowe's 10% off moving coupon to save more.

Whimsey
 
Double check the owners manual. On my craftsman they said to do the first oil change after 5 hours of runtime. Then change it annually after that. I'm using full synthetic 5w-30.

Regards, JC.
 
In the manual for my LCT-driven snow blower it also specified an oil change at 5 hours of use for break-in. I normally change it every 15-20 hours now.

I just put Mobil 1 5w30 in mine.
 
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Originally Posted By: Bandito440
GC 0w-30 in my 30" MTD snowblower. It takes a quart that I change in the spring before I put it away. I couldn't think of anything better.


+1 on the GC.

For summer storage run the carb dry and then remove the float bowl and clean any crud out of the bowl. Spray all the passageways in the carb with WD-40 and also spray the inside of the float bowl. I have never seen any metal that has a coating of WD-40 rust. Look for small idle air hole probably on the floor of the air passageway just behind the choke plate. Be sure to get some WD-40 in that small hole, if it rust up the engine will not idle properly. (Some carbs have the idle air hole on the front before the choke plate, if it is one of those there will probably be a notch in the intake gasket of the carb).

If you can figure out where the shear pins are, lube up the shaft and sleeve that will be slipping after the sheer pin brakes so they never rust together. A sheer pin is useless if the shaft and sleeve are rusted together enough to prevent the sheer pin from breaking.
 
Save the MTD & clone bashing, I don't want to hear it."

Check
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" I will be doing a few short changes to flush out any garbage from the manufacturing that some of these clones are claimed to have in them."

Good idea ... and it's true of ALL OPE engines, actually ... even jen-you-wine Honda and Robin (Subaru) engines.

I also use a little top-oil in the gas during the break-in period ... about an ounce per tank every other tankful.

dave123: "Whatever 5w30 or 0w30 you have on hand."

Correct. And if it is stored in a warm place (garage that is heated or gets some heat) you could use 10W30, conventional or synthetic.

You might want to also check the spark plug and make sure it's a name-brand plug and not "Torch," etc ...
 
I change mine once a year in the spring I usually use a Dino 5w30 as my garage gets some heat so real cold starts are not a problem my garage never gets lower then 30F. I have a 20 year old large Toro and a 6 year old Simplicity both run great so I must be doing something right.

I was talking to the guy next door and he has not changed his oil in his snowblower in 4 years! Although I don't recommend this it does show how tough these small motors are.
 
Worry less about the oil and more about the gas. Use ethanol free if available or Stabil marine for sure. Tru Fuel is even better. Put in a good NGK plug. Those Chondas can be very good if maintained. Park it on heavy cardboard or an old rug and spray like crazy on anything that gets wet with WD-40 after every use.
 
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A word of warning on that machine. The carbs clog up real easy. their have been quite a few of the on craigslist in my area. That wouldn't start from plugged up carbs. I picked up one and had a heck of a time getting it cleaned out. They aren't cold blooded. If I had one, I would probably open the main jet up a little, they seem to run too lean.
 
Originally Posted By: JimPghPA


For summer storage run the carb dry


Done that and the seals dry up and gas leaks. Add Stabil to the gas near the end of the winter season and in the summer run the snowblower several times.
 
+1 on the first oil change at 5 hours. I just changed the oil on a little generator we got, maybe 7 hours of run time. Man, that oil was nasty, brown with black streaks as it drained...
 
Changed the Torch plug to a NGK plug today and changed the MTD oil to Traveller's synthetic 5w30. The MTD oil was BLACK and full of yellow flakes. I tried to take a picture of the oil but my phone wouldn't cooperate, you can still see the yellow swirls in the oil. I will be doing another short change if we get more snow so I can put a couple more hours on it.

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