Don't see why that wouldn't work... I use M1 10W30 HM...
Briggs oil vs synthetic car oil
- Thread starter BMW Dom
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Don't see why that wouldn't work... I use M1 10W30 HM...
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Is the high mileage synthetic better than the regular synthetic? I want this mower to last a while longer. I know any sort of 30 weight oil would "work" in there, but I want it to last. I really wish i could see the additives in all oils. Also, does the API rating matter.
You're able to read a list of "additives" and predict future performance? That's pretty good if you can, I sure can't.
Yes the API license matters. That's your demonstrated proof that the oil meets a specific performance target. But some approvals are more stringent than the API licensing requirements, if you're worried about that then use an oil that carries an approval such as Porsche A40. That's what I do in my OPE where I use either Castrol 0W-40 or Mobil 1 0W-40. These oils have to meet very difficult approval criteria.
The only reliable way to determine whether one oil is "better" than another is by the approvals, certifications or licenses the oil has. Anything else is speculation. People on here often make statements such as "look at that slug of moly", the oil has a "healthy dose of boron" or that an oil has a "stout additive package". This is not a reliable indicator of performance.
Same but I use HPS 5-30 in a 28HP B&S commercial turf engine, also HPS in my 17HP Kawasaki on the Wright Stander mower
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I run the HM because my 11 year old mower used some oil. Since going to the M1 10W30 HM this year I have not had to add oil after the first month of use. I'm not sure if the HM is "better" or the thicker oil helped... At any rate I don't use enough to impact the decision financially. I'll stick with the M1 10W30 HM in my Deere JS36 push mower and LT150 lawn tractor.
Just my $0.02
Run what makes you sleep easy at night. I don't think you should over think this oil thing. Try it, if it doesn't work change it next time with your second pick.
As far as SJ or higher being acceptable. This is the specification for the oil, found on the round disc on the back. There are several articles on this forum to help you understand that, but most oils at retailers today are going to be SN or SN+ so it will be fine.
Just my $0.02
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Yes - they do - Boron etc. sometimes Antimony
Yes. Oil blenders use a lot of different compounds to reduce wear. Of the top of my head, some of these compounds contain boron, molybdenum, titanium, sulfur, chlorinated esters and probably a bunch more. Afton Chemical is one of the major manufacturers of the additive components used by the major motor oil brands if you want to look into their products.
OMG, not going to talk about the OP using a push mower 150 hours a year, this makes my back hurt just thinking about that many hours mowing.
A (normal 
) working week has 40hours...
He is mowing almost 3 "working" weeks in a row
) working week has 40hours... He is mowing almost 3 "working" weeks in a row
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Well, I'm young and I mow a few yards for money. I don't have an hour meter, so I kind of do an estimation on hours. I just change the oil every 3 months. I regularly inspect and clean the air filter probably every other week. I replace the air filter and sparkplug in the spring. Thanks for the replies, guys.
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Will the boron do just as a good jobs as zddp?
To the OP, I think you're worrying about stuff that doesn't really matter. The spring pressures and and cam lobes in a Briggs lawn mower engine are very, very mild. The main bearings are caged ball bearing types. The aluminum rod is splash lubricated. So are the piston and cylinder. Nothing in that motor sees the kind of high pressure, high rev-ing stress and loads that a car motor does. The fact of the matter is that those Briggs engines are essentially the same as the ones sold in the 50's and 60's and they lasted a long, long time back then even with weak-sauce non detergent 30 weight oil that most people used back then.
