Boron is EP/AW when you start mowing...when engine is still "cold"..... ZDDP is for the later...because it is heat activated...Will the boron do just as a good jobs as zddp?
Boron is EP/AW when you start mowing...when engine is still "cold"..... ZDDP is for the later...because it is heat activated...Will the boron do just as a good jobs as zddp?
So it doesn't really matter? I bet most people don't even change small engine oil... HAHA
Also what does the SN-RC mean. I know it means resource conserving, but is that okay in lawn mower. Thanks for all theso should I use conventional or synthetic? I want to just get one oil to use in my lawn mower in pressure washer. Will a 5w - 30 get thin quickly versus a 10w-30? Also if I just get a 5qt container, how long is the oil good for in my garage? Hopefully this is my last reply . I don't feel that the Briggs SAE 30 is that good. I always have to top it off in between oil changes, and it is always pitch black.
HAHA, it's Ohio. So it's usually 95-40 degrees when I'm mowing. It's 80 today but was 60 degrees Monday. Sometimes it's chilly while i'm bagging leaves, but I don't mow in the snow.Whats temps in your area like
Just use M1 10w-30 high mileage. It has a HTHS viscosity of 3.5, which is pretty close to what a straight SAE 30 should be. It will run you about $5/quart if purchased from Walmart in a 5 quart jug. I run this oil in most of my OPE and have no complaints.So it doesn't really matter? I bet most people don't even change small engine oil... HAHA
I prefer straight 30 weight in air cooled lawn and garden equipment. Last mower I used multi viscosity in started using oil at an early age. I ran a Kohler 20HP engine on straight 30 weight with 50 hr. oil/filter changes. I used the mower for about 23 years. When the mower wore out the motor was still in great condition with very minimal oil usage ( I'd maybe add 4-6 oz. a couple oz. at a time in 50 hrs.) As far as how long will oil last in your garage, I'm currently using conventional 10w40 in my cars that I bought in the mid '90's to mid '00's and still probably have somewhere between 5 and 10 cases of the older stuff. So if you find out it's only good for 20 years don't tell my cars, they don't know the difference. If the container has been opened just keep the lid on it so it doesn't collect dirt/insects and it will be fine. I believe you're overthinking this. In 45 years and approximately 1M miles of driving I've used everything from store brands to major brands and can't say that I can tell any difference in any of it. I drove an '88 Ford Escort to 518K miles on various brands. I retired it back about 2011-2012 and it was still running when I parked it, it just needed more work than I wanted to put in it and I wasn't paying someone hundreds of dollars to work on a car with 1/2 million miles on it.so should I use conventional or synthetic? I want to just get one oil to use in my lawn mower in pressure washer. Will a 5w - 30 get thin quickly versus a 10w-30? Also if I just get a 5qt container, how long is the oil good for in my garage? Hopefully this is my last reply . I don't feel that the Briggs SAE 30 is that good. I always have to top it off in between oil changes, and it is always pitch black.
So after doing some research it seems Mobil 1 10w-30 has way less zinc, phosphorus calcium and boron. it also seems like the mobil 1 datasheet is lying. What do you guys think? I know I am over analyzing this, that way my intention.Just use M1 10w-30 high mileage. It has a HTHS viscosity of 3.5, which is pretty close to what a straight SAE 30 should be. It will run you about $5/quart if purchased from Walmart in a 5 quart jug. I run this oil in most of my OPE and have no complaints.
Lying? Lol, no they are not lying.So after doing some research it seems Mobil 1 10w-30 has way less zinc, phosphorus calcium and boron. it also seems like the mobil 1 datasheet is lying. What do you guys think? I know I am over analyzing this, that way my intention.
So can I use the high mileage oil in my lawn mower? I thought it swells the seals.I like Delo 15/40 in the lawn equipment because it is only used in temperatures above 50 f. I use M1 HM10/30 in the generators because it may be used in temperatures as low as the teens(very seldom it gets that cold). I will be switching over to PP Euro 5/30 in gens because that is the oil I now be using in a 2019 nissan frontier and 2004 bmw Z4. 2 oils to cover all my needs.
They do?Also, since thicker oils usually have more additives, would i be better of using a 40 or 50 viscosity oil? It sounds like Briggs websites says that I can.
Thicker oils having more additives is a faulty assumption unless you are talking about viscosity improvers, which is not necessarily a good thing. You can use thicker oils in a Briggs and it won't hurt anything except maybe your arm trying to start in cold weather.Also, since thicker oils usually have more additives