Breakfree

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I have made up my mind after trying a lot of different gun oils and cleaners. I am going to use Breakfree to oil my guns and clean the gun but not to clean the bore of the barrel. I will clean the bore with either Hoppes No. 9 or Hoppes Elite depending on whether I can clean the gun inside or outside. I don't like the smell of Hoppes No. 9 inside the house. I also could use Breakfree to clean the bore inside the house if I can't clean outside. I might use Hoppes Benchrest occasionally (outside!) to remove copper.

It is time to make things simple.

I found a place where I can buy ammo. For some reason they seem to be able to get it and nobody else can. They would not let me in on their secret.
 
When I used Breakfree in my old SIG the SIG did not seem to like it. I had misfeeds every time I tried Breakfree with the SIG. I don't know why. But that is the truth. I still will not use Breakfree in the SIG. The SIG is also different than the Glock. A SIG likes to be really wet with oil.

The Glock for whatever reason or reasons is just a 'different animal.' In my SIG Hoppes Elite gun oil really worked well. I have had mixed results with Hoppes Elite in the Glock. It really seems no better or worse than any other gun oil. The two gun oils that seemed to work the best in my Glock were Breakfree and Birchwood Casey synthetic gun oil with PTFE. After I found out what was in the Birchwood Casey stuff I lost interest in it. That left the Breakfree. I am still not 100% happy with any gun oil but the Breakfree seems to work the best in the Glock so what the heck. I will use the Breakfree.

It is hard for me to believe that guns could be so different. The SIG and the Glock are just different. I don't know what else to say. And the Glock requires very little oil. Just six drops if you check the owner's manual.

I figure the Breakfree is okay to use in the Glock. A lot of people use Breakfree. And according to the 'Unofficial Glock Manual' that I have Breakfree is used at the Glock factory for cleaning Glocks and Breakfree is recommended by a lot of gunsmiths. I figure I can't go far wrong using the Breakfree. I just will not use it in my SIG. I still can't see the perfect gun oil.

I kind of think Breakfree is sort of marginal as a cleaner so I like Hoppes No. 9 outside (I don't like the smell inside my house) and Hoppes Elite inside for the bore of the barrel. The rest of the gun can be cleaned with Breakfree.

You are right. I used to hate Breakfree because of how it performed in my SIG. The stuff works in the Glock so what the heck.
 
Where I work we have a few Glock armorers and also armorers for other types of guns. One guy who is an armorer for Smith&Wesson M&P type guns highly recommends Breakfree. Another guy who took the Glock armorer's class recommends Hoppes No. 9 for cleaning, Hoppes gun oil, and some sort of Hoppes paste for the slide. I don't know about the paste. I might check that out.

The Glock runs really great with the Breakfree. The SIG runs great with the Hoppes Elite gun oil. Actually, I know a range instructor who has a .40 cal SIG and he uses high speed wheel bearing grease in his gun. It looks almost brand new after thousands of rounds.

I figure the Breakfree has to be the safe way to go. All kinds of guys use it so it can't be all bad. But I would never use Breakfree on my SIG.
 
BF CLP is great stuff, can usually get a gallon or 2 if you know anyone in the forces.
For frame rails, I only use oil in the winter. Any other time of year, and I use a light coat of grease.
 
I think I did try Breakfree LP a long time ago but I can't remember if I tried it on the SIG or not. And if I did I can't remember what the results were. Most of the Breakfree I see is CLP.
 
I've used Shooter Choice FP-10 with good results as well.
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Breakfree on the moving parts. Hoppes #9 to clean the barrel. And the last thing I do is run a patch down the barrel with Kroil on it, Then a final dry patch.
 
I use BF CLP on all my guns. If the bore is dirty I will use Hoppes #9. For copper fouling I use Wipe Out Foam cleaner.
 
BF CLP is far better than the LP version. LP does not lube as well and it is not as good of a protectant.

Many, many, many products work on guns without problem. BF works very well and is one of the best rust/corrosion preventative available.

If I could only have one gun product it would be CLP.
 
I like Hoppes #9 to clean with and Wilsons brand grease for the slide. I have a lite oil that came with my pistol and I can remember the name of it. Clear bottle with a red cap. Stuff works great
 
After I bought my S&W M&P I bought a video about the gun from the American Gunsmithing Institute. The gunsmith in the video recommends cleaning guns with Simple Green and using Breakfree to oil guns.
 
Originally Posted By: cougargnw
I like Hoppes #9 to clean with and Wilsons brand grease for the slide. I have a lite oil that came with my pistol and I can remember the name of it. Clear bottle with a red cap. Stuff works great


Wilson grease for the slide is the ultimate. Try MPRO-7 to clean it with.. it's what the military uses to clean guns and the carbon from aircraft engines.

CLP for everything else.
 
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Just my experience, but I can clean a barrel by running several patches of Hoppes No. 9 until I get a completely clean patch. I then run a dry patch down the barrel to remove any excess left over No. 9. I then run a patch with CLP on it and it will *always* come back DIRTY. Generally I can run about two or three more patches with CLP on them until I again get a clean patch. At this stage I run one final dry patch down the barrel to remove any excess CLP, but of course it does leave a *very* thin coating of CLP in the barrel. I view this as a good thing since it helps prevent any flash rust that might form in a completely oil free dry barrel.

The above experience tells me that the CLP is able to remove deposits that the Hoppes No. 9 can not. Don't know why, but I've gotten these consistent results on too many weapons to chalk it up to a fluke. This is now my standard cleaning procedure for the barrel of every gun I own.

I have heard people who clean their barrels with a lot of CLP on their patchs and *don't* finish with a dry patch complain that they get a few flyers on the first couple of rounds fired after a cleaning, but I have not experienced this using my technique of running a dry patch down the barrel as the final step. Presumably these flyers are caused by an excessively thick oil film left by the CLP, but as I have said I don't see this effect if I run one final dry patch as my last step.

I'd be curious if people that try this approach after a shooting session get the same result.
 
Originally Posted By: Durango
That is NOT a good way to shoot bullets through ones barrel! The bore should ALWAYS be dry and clear.

Durango

I shoot with a wet bore all the time. No problems here.
 
Originally Posted By: Mystic
After I bought my S&W M&P I bought a video about the gun from the American Gunsmithing Institute. The gunsmith in the video recommends cleaning guns with Simple Green and using Breakfree to oil guns.


Regular Simple Green can corrode aluminum.

I use Simple Green aircraft cleaner on guns. I got it mostly for using with corrosive ammo. but it cuts carbon and grime great.

BSW
 
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