Break in miles before changing to Redline 20w60

[blownalcohol]

I am currently breaking in (2,000 miles) a recent build on my 05 FLSTCI.
I have some 20w 50 and 20w 60 redline oil. On the back of the 50wt oil redline reconnends having 3,000 miles before using, and even longer for the 60wt.

I am just courious about the having enough break in miles. I do not recall seeing this on any other syn oil. What makes redline oil different? As we all know some bikes/cars come OEM with syn oil. Is redline that good, as to keep rings from breaking in and sealing?

I had planned on switching out to redline now, but maybe it's best to run another 1,000 miles of dino oil.

 

[ZZman]

Redline is good...uses Ester based oil. You could take longer for break in if you used it. But I think the weight is alot of it.

Those tolerances should be tight and that thicker oil would not be good for it till it gets broke in.

 

[ZGRider]

Redline contains alot of moly and that is probably why they recommend waiting until after breaking in engine before using Redline oils. It doesn't have anything to do with it being a Group V Synthetic oil.

 

[PT1]

I called them about this and they said it was a good idea to get all initial wear on the engine before using their oil.

 

[EagleFTE]

When I broke in my 05 I ran short runs of mineral oil before going to Red Line after about 2k. They recommend 3k but I got impatient.

 

[wileyE]

Back when a case of oil was 24 qts, a dealer/ engine builder friend used to hand out a case of 20w50 "sale" oil with every new bike or motor. Instruction was to use it all up then go ahead and use whatever you want.

My own experience with redline and some of the other synthetics is they can hard glaze the bore from the heat of blowby of unseated rings, making ring seating even more difficult. Viscosity improver also seem to do the same thing, plasticizing the bore. Why straight weight oils are desirable during breakin. Mineral oils will do it too, but the glaze isn't quite so tenacious to break. IMHO it has nothing to do synthetic's being somehow slippery or superior in lubrication. In a precision finished bore and fitted piston and rings, it shouldn't be a problem. But why take the chance?

 

[PT1]

Originally Posted By: wileyE
Back when a case of oil was 24 qts, a dealer/ engine builder friend used to hand out a case of 20w50 "sale" oil with every new bike or motor. Instruction was to use it all up then go ahead and use whatever you want.

My own experience with redline and some of the other synthetics is they can hard glaze the bore from the heat of blowby of unseated rings, making ring seating even more difficult. Viscosity improver also seem to do the same thing, plasticizing the bore. Why straight weight oils are desirable during breakin. Mineral oils will do it too, but the glaze isn't quite so tenacious to break. IMHO it has nothing to do synthetic's being somehow slippery or superior in lubrication. In a precision finished bore and fitted piston and rings, it shouldn't be a problem. But why take the chance?


Yeah, but most of that wear occurs in the first 100 miles.

 

[cfromc]

I switched to Amsoil at 453 miles, then Redline after that. I've been using Redline ever since and I performed a UOA every step of the way and had no problems.

 

[PT1]

I break my Harleys in on HD syn3...

 

[wileyE]

My experience is most the break in wear occuring the 1st time you really run it hard. Witnessed by small amounts of visable breakin metals on the filter pleats after a couple hundred miles of street riding. Then a LOT of metal after the 1st track day.

 

[benjy]

most "synthetics" today being group III highly refined CRUDE oil, hence the factory fill noted on some cars. Amsoil has QUIETLY switched to all or some group III base oils, they will not say so you know it is so!