Break-in method

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I understand this is anecdotal evidence but...I've had two Harley engines built. When I picked up the first one the service manager at the dealership said "She runs like a train" which, to me means that he beat the heck out of it at least once or twice within the first few miles. That was about 8 years ago. The engine has always used a little bit of oil, about 1/3-1/2 quart every 1000 miles, normal I thought for an HD. I just recently had it dyno'd and it came in at about 5-10HP less than I calculated based upon the modifications. The second engine was built by one of the best technicians in my area, was just test-ridden (not beaten) and was broken in by me by varying my speed with a lot of stop and go, etc. and not taken on the highway until it had about 400 miles. That engine also dyno'd slightly lower than I thought it would (about 5hp) but in both cases I think hope and hype tends to elevate expected dyno numbers. That engine uses virtually no oil at all. I added about 4oz. after over 3,000 miles and I think I overfilled it slightly.

Keep in mind that (it appears at least) the author of the article seems to be using race engines/race bikes as examples. These engines probably rarely see more than 10-20K miles before a major overhaul. I also think he over-estimates any "detrimental" effects of a text-book break-in. I almost correlate the hard break-in to using a K&N filter. It may be good for performance, but there is a draw-back of possible increased wear. My next new engine will likely be broken in on a dyno by a skilled operator in a controlled environment. But that is not feasible for most situations.

If you think about it, most people don't use either method or are even aware that such a thing exists. They just get in the car and drive it. Those vehicles, with proper maintenance, could still probably last over 200,000 miles.
 
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Originally posted by buster:

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I often recommend a procedure that can be done on the expressway by putting the trans in a manually selected lower gear so that the car is about 4500 RPM at 45-55 MPH. Full throttle up too 5500-6000 and then lift and allow engine braking back to 4500. Do this 10 times and then drive normally to cool things off. Repeat. Do this several times on several consequtive days. This is excellent for braking in the rings or exercising the rings on an older engine that might have carbon deposits restricting ring motion causing poor oil economy.

I would love to see some data on those that broke in their engines using the method in quotes above, vs those that took it easy on their cars.


No data, but this is essentially the technique I remember Bobby Unser describing several years ago.
 
on my 2006 vibe, at 500 miles, I set the car on 75 cruise control for almost three hours and drove 210 miles to show off my car to my family. At 4300 miles, no oil consumption yet.
 
I bought a new Pontiac Sunfire in 98, drove it 2 miles home, loaded luggage, wife and child in it, and took a road trip to Tennessee, and up the Blue Ridge. Ran that car for over 200,000 miles, and it was as good when I traded it, as when I picked it up. The "drive it like you stole it" attitude for break-in, IMO, is fine for a race bike or car, (and,in fact,is pretty much the way I treat the MX bikes) where a rebuild is in it's future. For the average Joe, expecting very long life, a gentle break-in is in order, and lots of clean oil. We all know that even with minimal maintenance though, most of the iron on the road today will rust out before the engine gives up the ghost, even if abused, and neglected. I think if you are looking for very long life, that a careful approach is better, but YMMV.
 
This guy's link comes up on many forums.
He is pretty big on himself, as he maintains how 'new' his ideas are.
You've got to be kidding.
Breaking in an engine with full throttle or taking it easy has been a topic of debate for many, many, years. Same old stuff.
I see the bottom line as that most engines are pretty much broken in at the factory, when run through their cycle, including full throttle.
It won't make much difference. either way.
 
The honed crosshatch pattern in the cylinder bore acts like a file to allow the rings to wear. The rings quickly wear down the "peaks" of this roughness, regardless of how hard the engine is run.

There's a very small window of opportunity to get the rings to seal really well ... the first 20 miles !!

If the rings aren't forced against the walls soon enough, they'll use up the roughness before they fully seat. Once that happens there is no solution but to re hone the cylinders, install new rings and start over again.


rolleyes.gif


Think about these statements then try to apply some science to explain them. Good luck...
 
i pretty much drive a brand new car like i'm gonna drive it. i just hold off the cruise control for a bit.

my current car was bought, driven to work for a day or two, then made a 6 hour high speed run to visit my dad in the hospital.

96000 miles later, no oil consumption and no problems.

same goes for my motorcycles.
 
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Originally posted by mechtech:
Breaking in an engine with full throttle or taking it easy has been a topic of debate for many, many, years.

Agreed. Back in the early 70's I knew an old guy that built race engines for the drag strip. His breakin prescription was to run the car and new engine flat out as fast as it would run a few times. He didn't know why but from his experience that's one of the ways he got the strongest/best engines.
 
quote:

Originally posted by mechtech:
I see the bottom line as that most engines are pretty much broken in at the factory, when run through their cycle, including full throttle.
It won't make much difference. either way.


I don't know about "most engines" but my experience with a '96 Honda Accord I4 and an '03 Hyundai Sonata V6 were that both were very "tight" at delivery and both went through about 8 oz. of the factory fill oil during the first several hundred miles of gentle, but varying engine speed operation. Thereafter, no noticeable oil consumption over my 3K mile OCIs during the 7 years I owned the Honda and the 3 1/2 years I currently have on my Hyundai. One thing I learned a long time ago was to take a new engine on drives over lightly traveled, moderately hilly terrain with the cruise control set to ~45 mph. The ascending and descending cycles do a nice job of alternately pressure and vacuum loading the piston rings and valve seals.
 
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