Brand loyalty

Originally Posted by CBR.worm
I'm not brand loyal, but there are some that I avoid. For a while, Nissan and Infiniti built the cars I liked. Prior to that Toyota and Lexus seemed to fill the niche. I've bought new cars from the big 3 US manufacturers and the big 3 Euro brands. I generally lean towards Japanese cars with a current interest in Kia/Hyundai. Particularly the G70/Stinger. Interestingly, I always liked Honda motorcycles, but I've never owned a Honda car.


I'd consider a Stinger GT1 or GT2 in a heartbeat if any local dealer carried the RWD versions. Drivers have been dumbed down to the point that they think AWD or FWD is needed to drive in the rain- never mind snow or ice.
 
Originally Posted by MCompact
Originally Posted by CBR.worm
I'm not brand loyal, but there are some that I avoid. For a while, Nissan and Infiniti built the cars I liked. Prior to that Toyota and Lexus seemed to fill the niche. I've bought new cars from the big 3 US manufacturers and the big 3 Euro brands. I generally lean towards Japanese cars with a current interest in Kia/Hyundai. Particularly the G70/Stinger. Interestingly, I always liked Honda motorcycles, but I've never owned a Honda car.


I'd consider a Stinger GT1 or GT2 in a heartbeat if any local dealer carried the RWD versions. Drivers have been dumbed down to the point that they think AWD or FWD is needed to drive in the rain- never mind snow or ice.


You couldn't hit that nail on the head any harder if you tried.
 
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I love BMWs so so much. Do I know each model has their flaws, yeah but I understand how maintain most of them or avoid a certain model all together. My father and I have had 3 e28 5 series, one I still drive in my sig. 2000 740il and 2003 530i were/are his vehicles. The 80s models were very simple in their construction and not at all hard to work on. I changed about 95% of the control arms and bushings on my e28 and its like a whole new car.
 
Originally Posted by Skippy722
Originally Posted by MCompact
Originally Posted by CBR.worm
I'm not brand loyal, but there are some that I avoid. For a while, Nissan and Infiniti built the cars I liked. Prior to that Toyota and Lexus seemed to fill the niche. I've bought new cars from the big 3 US manufacturers and the big 3 Euro brands. I generally lean towards Japanese cars with a current interest in Kia/Hyundai. Particularly the G70/Stinger. Interestingly, I always liked Honda motorcycles, but I've never owned a Honda car.


I'd consider a Stinger GT1 or GT2 in a heartbeat if any local dealer carried the RWD versions. Drivers have been dumbed down to the point that they think AWD or FWD is needed to drive in the rain- never mind snow or ice.


You couldn't hit that nail on the head any harder if you tried.

Eh, it's TRUE though. Awd is better. Just the other day someone I. A Tundra pulled off a side dirt road right in front of me in such a way I had to slam on the brakes or T bone them. I saw the look of terror on the guys face as his rwd truck just sat and spun the back tires in the gravel and he had to trust my braking because his vehicle was completely impotent. Now that I've owned AWD, fwd, and rwd, I'll never own anything but awd.

Could his situation awareness and not being stupid have prevented it? Sure. Sure could have. But we still care about crashworthiness, too...
 
Out of my family's cars that we have kept beyond 120K, below is the rough cost to get each of those cars to 120K. This is beyond basic maintenance, brakes, light bulbs, etc.:
1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.2L $0
1998 Oldsmobile Intrigue - $0
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0L ~$500 (chronic U-joint issues)
1999 Buick Regal ~$300 (clogged fuel rail, 1 window regulator)
2001 Pontiac Bonneville - ~$7K (chronic cooling system issues, 3x HVAC blower fans, rear bearings every 30K, 4x catalytic converters, front rotors every 5-10K)
2003 Chevrolet Trailblazer ~$4K (chronic transmission issues, HVAC blower fans, window regulators)
2004 Pontiac Grand Prix -$0
2010 Ford Fusion Hybrid ~ $1K (fuel injection system issues, failed hybrid battery 2 months after the 10 year warranty, haven't replaced it as the car still runs)
2010 Honda Ridgeline - $0
2012 Subaru Impreza - $16 (idler pulley)
2012 Chevrolet Cruze ~ $3K (PCV issues, catalytic converters, cooling system issues, turbo burned out)
2013 Subaru Outback - $0
2014 Subaru Legacy - $0
2015 Subaru Outback ~ $150 (rear window regulator, Subaru paid half at 105K miles)

We are not brand loyal but we have had a mixed bag from both GM and Ford in terms of reliability so we tend to avoid them now. We've had great luck with our Honda and Subarus but we have branched out and now we have a mix of Subarus, Hondas, and Toyotas.
 
Originally Posted by IveBeenRued
Out of my family's cars that we have kept beyond 120K, below is the rough cost to get each of those cars to 120K. This is beyond basic maintenance, brakes, light bulbs, etc.:
1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.2L $0
1998 Oldsmobile Intrigue - $0
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0L ~$500 (chronic U-joint issues)
1999 Buick Regal ~$300 (clogged fuel rail, 1 window regulator)
2001 Pontiac Bonneville - ~$7K (chronic cooling system issues, 3x HVAC blower fans, rear bearings every 30K, 4x catalytic converters, front rotors every 5-10K)
2003 Chevrolet Trailblazer ~$4K (chronic transmission issues, HVAC blower fans, window regulators)
2004 Pontiac Grand Prix -$0
2010 Ford Fusion Hybrid ~ $1K (fuel injection system issues, failed hybrid battery 2 months after the 10 year warranty, haven't replaced it as the car still runs)
2010 Honda Ridgeline - $0
2012 Subaru Impreza - $16 (idler pulley)
2012 Chevrolet Cruze ~ $3K (PCV issues, catalytic converters, cooling system issues, turbo burned out)
2013 Subaru Outback - $0
2014 Subaru Legacy - $0
2015 Subaru Outback ~ $150 (rear window regulator, Subaru paid half at 105K miles)

We are not brand loyal but we have had a mixed bag from both GM and Ford in terms of reliability so we tend to avoid them now. We've had great luck with our Honda and Subarus but we have branched out and now we have a mix of Subarus, Hondas, and Toyotas.



Wow

Those GM pieces of @@@@ cost y'all some money !!!💵💵💵💵💵💵💵

Sorry man !!! Sorry ...©
 
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Originally Posted by IveBeenRued
Out of my family's cars that we have kept beyond 120K, below is the rough cost to get each of those cars to 120K. This is beyond basic maintenance, brakes, light bulbs, etc.:
1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.2L $0
1998 Oldsmobile Intrigue - $0
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0L ~$500 (chronic U-joint issues)
1999 Buick Regal ~$300 (clogged fuel rail, 1 window regulator)
2001 Pontiac Bonneville - ~$7K (chronic cooling system issues, 3x HVAC blower fans, rear bearings every 30K, 4x catalytic converters, front rotors every 5-10K)
2003 Chevrolet Trailblazer ~$4K (chronic transmission issues, HVAC blower fans, window regulators)
2004 Pontiac Grand Prix -$0
2010 Ford Fusion Hybrid ~ $1K (fuel injection system issues, failed hybrid battery 2 months after the 10 year warranty, haven't replaced it as the car still runs)
2010 Honda Ridgeline - $0
2012 Subaru Impreza - $16 (idler pulley)
2012 Chevrolet Cruze ~ $3K (PCV issues, catalytic converters, cooling system issues, turbo burned out)
2013 Subaru Outback - $0
2014 Subaru Legacy - $0
2015 Subaru Outback ~ $150 (rear window regulator, Subaru paid half at 105K miles)

We are not brand loyal but we have had a mixed bag from both GM and Ford in terms of reliability so we tend to avoid them now. We've had great luck with our Honda and Subarus but we have branched out and now we have a mix of Subarus, Hondas, and Toyotas.

I too favor true JDM. Trends emerge, as you've seen...
 
Originally Posted by IveBeenRued
Out of my family's cars that we have kept beyond 120K, below is the rough cost to get each of those cars to 120K. This is beyond basic maintenance, brakes, light bulbs, etc.:
1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.2L $0
1998 Oldsmobile Intrigue - $0
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0L ~$500 (chronic U-joint issues)
1999 Buick Regal ~$300 (clogged fuel rail, 1 window regulator)
2001 Pontiac Bonneville - ~$7K (chronic cooling system issues, 3x HVAC blower fans, rear bearings every 30K, 4x catalytic converters, front rotors every 5-10K)
2003 Chevrolet Trailblazer ~$4K (chronic transmission issues, HVAC blower fans, window regulators)
2004 Pontiac Grand Prix -$0
2010 Ford Fusion Hybrid ~ $1K (fuel injection system issues, failed hybrid battery 2 months after the 10 year warranty, haven't replaced it as the car still runs)
2010 Honda Ridgeline - $0
2012 Subaru Impreza - $16 (idler pulley)
2012 Chevrolet Cruze ~ $3K (PCV issues, catalytic converters, cooling system issues, turbo burned out)
2013 Subaru Outback - $0
2014 Subaru Legacy - $0
2015 Subaru Outback ~ $150 (rear window regulator, Subaru paid half at 105K miles)

We are not brand loyal but we have had a mixed bag from both GM and Ford in terms of reliability so we tend to avoid them now. We've had great luck with our Honda and Subarus but we have branched out and now we have a mix of Subarus, Hondas, and Toyotas.

I too favor true JDM. Trends emerge, as you've seen...
 
My fiancée and her family are die hard Ford and won't consider anything else though she has been driving beater early 90's Cavaliers for her work commute for the past 14 years.

Most of my life I've owned GM and have had decent luck with them though I did stray away when I bought my Mustang. The Mustang has been pretty reliable with just some cosmetic issues. My experience with getting warranty work done and having Ford blame me for the damage on two of my claims will probably keep me from buying another Ford.

I'm not opposed to owning other brands but really haven't seen too many other stuff that catches my eye other than a Challenger Scat Pack.
 
I'm not brand loyal but I do prefer to buy cars that were made in the USA. We currently have a Ford (made in Michigan) and a Toyota (made in Indiana).
 
Not so much brand but the I6 + RWD layout.

It started with a mid-1960's Ford Mustang, briefly moved to a SUV via Jeep 4.0, after a brief stint with an I4(VW) it has been BMW for the better part of 20 years. I just can't get enough of the I6+RWD layout, especially when traveling over 80 mph on a relatively desolate highway. Sublime.
 
Originally Posted by Ws6
Originally Posted by Skippy722
Originally Posted by MCompact
Originally Posted by CBR.worm
I'm not brand loyal, but there are some that I avoid. For a while, Nissan and Infiniti built the cars I liked. Prior to that Toyota and Lexus seemed to fill the niche. I've bought new cars from the big 3 US manufacturers and the big 3 Euro brands. I generally lean towards Japanese cars with a current interest in Kia/Hyundai. Particularly the G70/Stinger. Interestingly, I always liked Honda motorcycles, but I've never owned a Honda car.


I'd consider a Stinger GT1 or GT2 in a heartbeat if any local dealer carried the RWD versions. Drivers have been dumbed down to the point that they think AWD or FWD is needed to drive in the rain- never mind snow or ice.


You couldn't hit that nail on the head any harder if you tried.

Eh, it's TRUE though. Awd is better. Just the other day someone I. A Tundra pulled off a side dirt road right in front of me in such a way I had to slam on the brakes or T bone them. I saw the look of terror on the guys face as his rwd truck just sat and spun the back tires in the gravel and he had to trust my braking because his vehicle was completely impotent. Now that I've owned AWD, fwd, and rwd, I'll never own anything but awd.

Could his situation awareness and not being stupid have prevented it? Sure. Sure could have. But we still care about crashworthiness, too...



If you need AWD to drive in the rain or snow and not crash you either:

A. Need to buy better tires
B. Need to learn how to drive


I've driven with people who could have an AWD car with studded snow tires all year round and still manage to crash because they are just that bad at driving and shouldn't be on the streets.
 
For me, I stick with anything Japanese minus Subaru...only beef is outside of the WRX they're kind of gutless. I guess Mitsubishi is also out of the running haha. No interest in a domestic, and no interest in the upkeep of a Euro.
 
Originally Posted by tbm5690
For me, I stick with anything Japanese minus Subaru...only beef is outside of the WRX they're kind of gutless. I guess Mitsubishi is also out of the running haha. No interest in a domestic, and no interest in the upkeep of a Euro.

Meh. WRX is 30K and 268hp. STi is $35K and 310hp. Still gutless for the cost. You don't buy a WRX/STi because it's got guts.
 
I also believe that certain brands have made "better" cars during some periods in their history, and "worse" cars during others. Also within a brand, certain models may be exceptional in their class while other models from that same brand are terrible in their respective class. So, it depends. Every vehicle I've ever owned was purchased with a specific type of use in mind, so I bought that model specifically because it does exactly what I needed. I believe that Toyota makes great pickup trucks, but if I needed a full size, I would not buy a Tundra, I would buy a Chevy Silverado.
 
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