brand curiosity

[Durango]

Hello and good morning to all,

In a couple weeks I'll need to get ready for my next OCI and since I've always been a Mobil 1 user I've been contemplating dropping some bucks down on 6 quarts of Royal Purple in 5w30 grade for the first time in my 01' Dodge Durango. Since watching the morning Spike channel "Power Block" the horsepower section is always toteing this oil in every engine they re-build. Is this synthetic oil that good compared to my usual trust worthy Mobil1???

What is everyone's opinion about this? Otherwise I was wondering about Castrol "Syntec" or something like that.

Durango

 

[demarpaint]

RP is either loved or hated here, so this thread might head for a lock up. LOL I'd give it a try, from info I've gathered it is a very good oil. If you're thinking Castrol Syntec why not try Castrol Edge? It is now my favorite, in 0W20 and 5W30. My fingers are crossed that they soon offer it in a 0W30.

 

[hardcore302]

someone should post the page about the m1 vs rp mustang cam wear pics.

 

[electrolover]

i got a deal on it at orielys but other than that i wont buy it because its 8 bucks a qt. why not just get a jug of any syn from walmart for 22-26 dollars?

 

[chubbs1]

Man I will tell you along with most others....it's hype! I want to buy it too when I see the adds, then sanity kicks back in. It is a fine oil I'm sure, just not worth the $$ or better IMO than Mobil 1, Pennzoil Platinum, Pennzoil Ultra Platinum, Castrol Syntec, Castrol EDGE. A guy posted just yesterday about how he thinks the new formulation of M1 is running better than RP, and he is switching back to M1...lol. Syntec is a good oil, no better than M1 Pennzoil PP, PU IMO.

 

[dparm]

I'll be objective here, despite the SUBJECTIVE love/hate thing some people have going for Royal Purple.

RP uses high-grade basestocks. They are definitely a step up from most off-the-shelf "synthetic" oils. Their stuff is proven and offers excellent performance. It is a tad expensive, however.

Fortunately, the extra performance and cost ultimately means you can stretch the change interval out longer. I suggest getting it on sale or using a coupon if you can.


I wouldn't hesitate to run RP in your truck. It's a step up from Syntec.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: hardcore302
someone should post the page about the m1 vs rp mustang cam wear pics.


That was an eye opener, I forgot about that!

 

[Eddie]

I'd stick with Mobil 1 and if you want to change for the fun of it, then go with PP IMO. Ed

 

[Dave Hess]

Where is the link for the cam wear pics ?

 

[Panzerman]

The mechanics tote that stuff highly in the programs because of adverytising dollars. I guess its money they save on getting the newest api ratings. For a stock engine, I feel even if it had better base stocks, for as much more as it costs a quart, its a big waste of money.

 

[OVERKILL]

Well of course RP is used in the 24hrs of LeMans, meets Honda's HTO-06 spec, and has a huge list of manufacturer approvals.....

Wait, no, that was Mobil 1.

 

[OVERKILL]

The first thread:

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/posts/1689105/

The second thread:

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/royal-purple-can-do-what.145035/

The pictures:

Royal Purple:

Mobil 1:

Note that these cams are out of two 4.6L 3V Modular Ford engines in Mustangs.

And the API SEQ IVA photos:

FAIL:

PASS:

And the response that Ed received when he contacted them about the pictures (he thought they were mislabeled, and I'm sure many would quickly come to the same conclusion):

Originally Posted By: Eric Liu
The surface of a worn cam lobe would
generally have a much darker hue than one with very little wear. If you
look closely at the picture of the failing cam, you will notice that the
color at the edge of the cam lobe is lighter than the rest of the surface.
This is because the width of the cam lobe is wider than the rocker arm pad
in the Nissan KA24E engine; the edge of the cam lobe does not make contact
with the rocker arm pad and is thus unworn.

The wear patterns on the surface of the passing cam lobe is merely light
scuffing. It looks more severe than the actual failing cam lobe, because it
lacks color uniformity.

 

[Durango]

Hi guys,

No matter what brand is decide to use the extended synthetics are all outragiously high at least here in Los Angeles. The last time I checked was priced at $8.99/quart. Now that I'm typeing this the reality check comes into play. I'm now looking at $54 bucks and that's not including tax. I haven't thought of a filter yet. You guys call me cheap??? Guys gas out here in my hood is $3.84 a gallon of regular at the Shell. Now you onder why? Anyway let me contemplating this some more.Please keep the opinions coming in.

Durango

 

[jmsjags]

so based on those pictures M1 did a better job of protecting the cams than Royal Purple? was that regular M1 or Mobil 1 Extended Performance? and what was the OCI?

 

[dparm]

Originally Posted By: Durango
Hi guys,

No matter what brand is decide to use the extended synthetics are all outragiously high at least here in Los Angeles. The last time I checked was priced at $8.99/quart. Now that I'm typeing this the reality check comes into play. I'm now looking at $54 bucks and that's not including tax. I haven't thought of a filter yet. You guys call me cheap??? Guys gas out here in my hood is $3.84 a gallon of regular at the Shell. Now you onder why? Anyway let me contemplating this some more.Please keep the opinions coming in.

Durango


True, but most synthetics can go much longer without needing to be changed. RP can easily hit 5k or more.

 

[aquariuscsm]

After trying lots of different oils,I`ve gone back to Mobil 1.

 

[electrolover]

[/quote]

True, but most synthetics can go much longer without needing to be changed. RP can easily hit 5k or more. [/quote]

i would say way more! when i drained it at 5k out of my truck it still looked new. i would not run it less than 7k if i bought it again

 

[Scienceman]

Royal purple is just syn oil colored purple. If you want a good oil that is cheaper and will literally do just as well...look at pennzoil.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Cam wear on a roller cam is the oils fault - thats funny! Who Knows what the basestock is in royal purple street oil. Nobody here, but I can guarantee you its not 80% synthetic given its performance. Their racing oil is a different animal. I do know they are using diesel add pack containing Mg - Dont want that in my gas car.
- You want a REAL synthetic (nothing discussed previously is real synthetic) Try Redline, Fuchs Silkolene Pro-S, Motul 300v, Pentosin. Otherwise your just looking at "Walmart-grade" fake synthetic oil using your walmart grade education.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Back to the ford cam "wear" issue - you can tell the guy does not know what he's talking about - that is a roller cam profile, you can tell by the nose width - a 4 cyl SUB OHC Datsun K24 would have very little apparent dwell OPEN (triangle shape). A roller requires little to no lube (per se) only the roller (torrington needle) and some splash for modest cooling. There have been reports of roller skating in small block when you have "too good" of a lubricant with a roller - but I've never seen it proved or disproved.