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Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Cam wear on a roller cam is the oils fault - thats funny! Who Knows what the basestock is in royal purple street oil. Nobody here, but I can guarantee you its not 80% synthetic given its performance. Their racing oil is a different animal. I do know they are using diesel add pack containing Mg - Dont want that in my gas car.
- You want a REAL synthetic (nothing discussed previously is real synthetic) Try Redline, Fuchs Silkolene Pro-S, Motul 300v, Pentosin. Otherwise your just looking at "Walmart-grade" fake synthetic oil using your walmart grade education.



I was under the impression it is mostly PAO.
 
Wasn't there another RP cam thread where it did a bang up job? Unless I have the thread mixed up with another site.
 
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Back to the ford cam "wear" issue - you can tell the guy does not know what he's talking about - that is a roller cam profile, you can tell by the nose width - a 4 cyl SUB OHC Datsun K24 would have very little apparent dwell OPEN (triangle shape). A roller requires little to no lube (per se) only the roller (torrington needle) and some splash for modest cooling. There have been reports of roller skating in small block when you have "too good" of a lubricant with a roller - but I've never seen it proved or disproved.


Which guy?

ARCO:

The Ford cams pictured (3V 4.6L cams) are indeed roller.

The cam lobes shown to demonstrate the PASS/FAIL by the SEQ IVA test are not Ford lobes however. They are Nissan KA24E cam lobes. I don't know if that engine is roller or not.

The point made however was that the "shiny" lobe in the SEQ IVA test is actually the FAIL result. Most assume that it would be the "PASS" and the one with the "tracks" on it would be "FAIL".

What seems to be missing here is that cam lobes aren't shiny in the first place. They are grey. If you look at the M1 lobes, the area outside the tracking is the virgin colour of the lobe. So the tiny "tracks" on the lobes are the only actual points of wear. To take this a step further, if you look at the area between the lobes on both cams, and then compare it to the lobes (obviously there is no wear in this area, it doesn't touch anything) you will notice the M1 lobes are the same colour except for the tracks. The RP lobes have been "polished". Polishing removes material.

This is why pictures posted on the Internet to "tell a story" can be so dangerous. At first glance, to the uneducated eye, those pictures are grossly misleading. It is not until you compare them to the SEQ IVA photos, and then start looking at the different areas of the cam and comparing non-contact areas to the actual lobes that you start seeing things in a different light.
 
Me thinks.....that the extra $$'s you pay for RP is because of additional expensive additives like... purple dye.
__________________________________________
03' Ford Focus (2.3L Duratec) / 94K
Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5w20 / Mobil 1 Extended Performance filter / Oci 1 yr. or 10K +/-
 
What's that saying??? "A fool and his money "
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Hi guys,

I don't want to start any arguments regarding the use/trying of RP oil. The only reason I thought about trying it is because this will be my first OCI since last year my engine took a dump and had to get a valve job so the new service center I'm taking it to has RP on the shelve. That way I won't need to buy my own oil at the PEP BOYS. They offered me a free oil change to examine the engine and make sure it's holding up to their standards. What type of oil they offer I can't say but I want to use a synthetic but you know they won't give me RP for free.

Anyway in reality it doesn't HAVE to be RP.... I am willing to continue using M1 depending on your opinions. Perhaps Castrol "Syntec" is worth a try. Is this oil in 5w30 good synthetic oil to use???? How about PP as I always hear it's tremodous cleaning qualities is un-equeled.

Durango
 
Run whatever you want - the oils mentioned are not real synthetic. Nobody cares - but dont pay over $5/qt. Real syn is about $8-12 USD litre. Again only some Amsoil then Redline, Motul 300v, Fuchs Silkolene, Pentosyn. Do you need real syn? IDK.
 
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL

Which guy?

ARCO:

The Ford cams pictured (3V 4.6L cams) are indeed roller.

The cam lobes shown to demonstrate the PASS/FAIL by the SEQ IVA test are not Ford lobes however. They are Nissan KA24E cam lobes. I don't know if that engine is roller or not.

The nissan is NOT roller as I stated its SUB direct acting. Like a toyota 2AZ-FE camry engine. I just think its WRONG to blame the oil on a Ford roller cam as there is NO sliding tappet on the cam. It's been stated that "low friction synthetic" used on a roller may cause the roller to skate instead of roll which may cause wear. Those photos dont tell me anything - I'd have to perform surface microscopy analysis and measurements and surface hardness tests to evaluate. To sum up a super oil could cause problems on some engine. There is no "universally" great oil, just the correct one for an application. Some failure cannot be predicted and we unfortunately fall back onto "trial and error" and adjust our choices given the tough lessons learned.
 
I usually use m1 cuz it's always on sale and it's given me great
results with long oci's. I ran RP this summer and engine felt
smoother than usual when accelerating especially. Yeah, I know,
subjective but.
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Only place near me that sells it though is AAP and it's never
on sale. No way I'm paying 8.50 a quart.
 
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
[ The nissan is NOT roller as I stated its SUB direct acting. Like a toyota 2AZ-FE camry engine.


OK, that's why I asked. I assumed it wasn't, going by the pictures, but wasn't sure.

Quote:
I just think its WRONG to blame the oil on a Ford roller cam as there is NO sliding tappet on the cam.


I don't think there was any "blame" being thrown around. I think it was more like unfounded conclusions.

Quote:
It's been stated that "low friction synthetic" used on a roller may cause the roller to skate instead of roll which may cause wear.


Yes, Doug Hillary talked about this recently actually, in another thread.

Quote:
Those photos dont tell me anything - I'd have to perform surface microscopy analysis and measurements and surface hardness tests to evaluate.


BINGO!! That was the point I was trying to make. Conclusions were drawn from the photos. Conclusions which, IMHO, were not there to be made. There were no before and after measurements taken. This was not a controlled test. The cars belonged to two different owners. And all we have to go by are some pictures, LOL!

Quote:
To sum up a super oil could cause problems on some engine. There is no "universally" great oil, just the correct one for an application. Some failure cannot be predicted and we unfortunately fall back onto "trial and error" and adjust our choices given the tough lessons learned.


I can agree with that. Though I do think an oil that could probably be classified as "universally great" for a gasoline engine would be Mobil 1 0w40.
 
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