Brakes on 2001 Cherokee getting [censored]

[Donald]

The brakes on my 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee seem to be getting [censored]. I feel some vibration in steering wheel when I apply the brakes.

On the front I have ceramic pads and rotors from AAP (with 24K on them). On the rear I have semi metallic pads and rotors from a tire store (with 18K on them).

Question is how do I know what to replace, everything looks fine via visual inspection.

 

[SLCraig]

Even if the rears are "helping" cause the pulsation, just usually replacing the fronts will banish 80% of the pulsation.

Fronts do a lot more braking as you know, and they are mostly the culprits.

 

[Eddie]

Steering wheel vibration usually points to from brakes

 

[Donald]

I believe its front also. But 24K miles is not much for ceramic pads and new rotors. I was thinking of just putting in new rotors as the ceramic pads look fine.

 

[nwjones18]

I have had similar luck with the cheap rotors from the parts store. I have a set on my truck that warped within the first 15k I had them turned and they have warped again. And they told me when I had them turned that they were too worn out to turn again. So I have 'worn out' a set of rotors on a half ton truck that I never tow a trailer with in 30k. I'll buy better ones next time.

 

[Donald]

Going with a Centric Premium rotor from RockAuto ($41 each).

 

[mechtech2]

What about pads?
You are getting new ones, right?

Front or rear brakes can cause a wobble in the pedal, but if it is in the steering wheel, the fronts are a sure bet.

 

[Donald]

Actually I am thinking about just replacing the rotors. The front pads are ceramic and looked ok from a quick visual with wheels on. When I pull the wheels and take a closer look I may change my mind.

My problem is if the pads look good and the rotors look good why are my brakes [censored]??

 

[nwjones18]

A rotor can be warped and look fine. I would have them turned put them back on and see if that fixes your problem.

 

[mechtech2]

You won't see a warp, out of roundness, or thickness variation. These have to be measured.

Sometimes it is best to get in the right frame of mind before tackling a job.
Admit that it is going to be more time consuming than at first glance. And more parts to buy!
Brakes last a LONG time, if done correctly. Keep this goal in mind!
Brakes need lubrication for the calipers, and even on the pad ends.
Sticky sliding pins have to be dressed smooth, or get a new repair kit.
Start soaking your bleeders NOW. PB Blaster or such. And us a 6 point [preferably flank drive] to loosen them initially.
When you clean something, really clean it. Like the golfer Sam Snead used to say, "When you play a safe recovery shot, play a safe recovery shot - don't try to play safe and be a hero at the same time!"

To do everything really right will add 2 hours to the complete job [for a civilian]. Big deal. Get your stuff in order first, and dive in.

 

[Donald]

I was considering just having the rotors turned, but I assume they were just somewhat cheap rotors (but not THE cheapest) at AAP. If they warped in 20K, when they are turned they will warp in less than 20K.

I am hoping that Centric Premium rotors will be of better quality.

 

[mechtech2]

People seem to love the Centric stuff.
You have a very good chance of long term success with them.
Remember that brake pedal wobble can be from all sorts of problems, not just poor rotors.

 

[Ken2]

It is unlikely that the rotors are warped. It is more likely that the pads have put uneven deposits of the friction material on the rotors.

It you're willing, lightly sandpaper both sides of the rotors and put them back into service. Do check any caliper slides for good operation. You might also lightly sandpaper the faces of the pads...put the sandpaper on a flat surface and lightly run the pads over them to remove any glaze. If this smooths out your braking, then you know that the pads are inadequate for your service.

 

[Donald]

Can you see the uneven deposits of friction material on the rotors?

 

[Smoky14]

Not usually