what pads do yall recommend?
the two pads i'm considering now are Hawk HPS and EBC Greenstuff.
the two pads i'm considering now are Hawk HPS and EBC Greenstuff.
brake pads
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Ceramic, Akebono
I'm going to get the Euro ceramic Akebono's from Tire Rack for my Saturn V6 L; I searched online and can't find them for less from anyone else.
What's the application (car & driving conditions)? That can have a huge impact on what pads you decide on using.
I've actually had both of these but the last time I had Hawk HPS pads was ~ 5 years ago so I can't be sure if the pad composition has been reformulated.
In any event, the HPS is probably the more aggressive pad. That may or may not be what you are looking for. For me the HPS pads worked well but they cut a lot of tiny grooves into the rotor. Lots of dust too. These pads offer excellent initial bite and fade resistance though.
The greenstuff is less agressive, gentler to rotors, but offers slightly less bite imo. Presently I'd be hard pressed to recommend greenstuff pads over a premium carbon-ceramic formulation. As good as they are I think they are slightly overpriced.
In any event, the HPS is probably the more aggressive pad. That may or may not be what you are looking for. For me the HPS pads worked well but they cut a lot of tiny grooves into the rotor. Lots of dust too. These pads offer excellent initial bite and fade resistance though.
The greenstuff is less agressive, gentler to rotors, but offers slightly less bite imo. Presently I'd be hard pressed to recommend greenstuff pads over a premium carbon-ceramic formulation. As good as they are I think they are slightly overpriced.
what about redstuff? they're the next step up.
I used to use Hawk HPS pads, and then Hawk HP Plus front pads and Hawk HPS rear pads. I've since found Carbotech's Bobcat pads to be better than Hawk HPS and Carbotech's Panther Plus pads to be better than the Hawk HP Plus.
For mostly street use and autocrossing Carbotech's Bobcat pads are a great option. Very good bite and they work well ven when cold. Good fade resistance and a higher MOT (Maximum Operating Temp) than the Hawk HPS.
What I run is Carbotech Panther Plus in front and Bobcat in the rear. The Panther Plus is not recommended for the street unless you're a very aggressive driver. This pad is actually usable on roadcourses (which is why I installed them). I'm using them on a Stoptech 355mm front brake kit and I haven't yet experienced fade on roadcourses with 265/35/18 Yokohama Neova AD07 tires. Car is a modified 3000GT VR-4 (fast but heavy).
Using the Panther Plus pads on the street as well, you must brake hard every so often in order to maintain a layer of pad material on the rotors. If you don't do this, the deposited layer will eventually be scrubbed off and you will need to re-bed the pads hence their 'not recommended for street use'. But I do daily drive this combo even in the winter and have had no problems.
A word of warning though, anyone considering using the anther Plus pads should know that they are a very dusty pad and they can squeal like a stuck pig when cold. If you don't hit roadcourses or canyon runs and don't drive aggressively, the Bobcats are a great option.
Max
For mostly street use and autocrossing Carbotech's Bobcat pads are a great option. Very good bite and they work well ven when cold. Good fade resistance and a higher MOT (Maximum Operating Temp) than the Hawk HPS.
What I run is Carbotech Panther Plus in front and Bobcat in the rear. The Panther Plus is not recommended for the street unless you're a very aggressive driver. This pad is actually usable on roadcourses (which is why I installed them). I'm using them on a Stoptech 355mm front brake kit and I haven't yet experienced fade on roadcourses with 265/35/18 Yokohama Neova AD07 tires. Car is a modified 3000GT VR-4 (fast but heavy).
Using the Panther Plus pads on the street as well, you must brake hard every so often in order to maintain a layer of pad material on the rotors. If you don't do this, the deposited layer will eventually be scrubbed off and you will need to re-bed the pads hence their 'not recommended for street use'. But I do daily drive this combo even in the winter and have had no problems.
A word of warning though, anyone considering using the anther Plus pads should know that they are a very dusty pad and they can squeal like a stuck pig when cold. If you don't hit roadcourses or canyon runs and don't drive aggressively, the Bobcats are a great option.
Max
I've used Akebono ProACT ceramics on an Acura TL with excellent results. The ProACT pad is probably the only full ceramic pad on the market that is noiseless and low dust yet does not compromise braking performance. I can almost guarantee that they will be quiet as long as you resurface the rotors and apply a thin layer of the included moly lube to the pad shim (only where caliper contacts the shim), pad ears, caliper mounting bracket contact points, and slider pins.
The HAWK HPS will give you better braking power than the Akebono, but tends to be dustier, significantly more expensive, and possibly have a shorter life. If you are satisfied with the of the factory pads, I'd go with the Akebono.
The HAWK HPS will give you better braking power than the Akebono, but tends to be dustier, significantly more expensive, and possibly have a shorter life. If you are satisfied with the of the factory pads, I'd go with the Akebono.
No reason to resurface the rotors, maybe just use some garnet paper on the rotor first, and then bed the brakes in properly.
Depends, really. Resurfacing the rotors removes all off the old material and eliminates the possibility of noise problems caused by the material incompatibility between the new and old pads.
Most importantly, you need to check for DTV, thickness, and runout before installation. Those are the three things that most backyard mechanics do not do and are the cause of many brake problems. Also, it is imperative that one lubes the pad ears, corresponding areas on the caliper mounting bracket, slide pins/slides, piston/piston seal, and the back of the pad where the caliper contacts it.
Most importantly, you need to check for DTV, thickness, and runout before installation. Those are the three things that most backyard mechanics do not do and are the cause of many brake problems. Also, it is imperative that one lubes the pad ears, corresponding areas on the caliper mounting bracket, slide pins/slides, piston/piston seal, and the back of the pad where the caliper contacts it.
I have the Hawk HPS (fronts) on my daily driver 911. They do seem to chew up the rotors but these are my first cross-drilled rotors so I'm not sure. The HPS really stop and are very low dust for me, less than PRB Ceramics I have on the rear. I think I have 40K on them now and ~50% left. Braking for red light is fun!
On a 2005 Freestyle with known rear brake problems I decided on using EBC Greenstuff (Akebono Ceramics were another serious choice). Ford did "Extended Warranty to 36K" yesterday on it and will refit front/rears so I'll not know about the Greenstuff. The deciding factor on Ake vs GS was the comment below and considered to go RedStuff in fronts eventually AND the vehicle is Green color...
Hawks were too expensive.
EBC and others recommend not putting on more aggressive pads ONLY in the rear. They recommended Ft/Rr combo's of Green/OEM, Green/Green , Red/Green, etc.
On a 2005 Freestyle with known rear brake problems I decided on using EBC Greenstuff (Akebono Ceramics were another serious choice). Ford did "Extended Warranty to 36K" yesterday on it and will refit front/rears so I'll not know about the Greenstuff. The deciding factor on Ake vs GS was the comment below and considered to go RedStuff in fronts eventually AND the vehicle is Green color...
Hawks were too expensive.EBC and others recommend not putting on more aggressive pads ONLY in the rear. They recommended Ft/Rr combo's of Green/OEM, Green/Green , Red/Green, etc.
my focus only has pads on the front. so i guess i'm good if i choose ebc?
Doesn't make much sense. Usually one would put the more aggressive pads in the FRONT as it would allow for better braking power. Rear pads are usually less aggressive.
Anyway, what's so good about EBC greenstuff aside from price? I think you'll be happier with the Akebonos as they'll last you longer.
Anyway, what's so good about EBC greenstuff aside from price? I think you'll be happier with the Akebonos as they'll last you longer.
Hawk HPS are the best replacement pads That I have used. I have done a jillion brake jobs.
Please stick with cheap plain rotors - less cost, dust, noise, better pad life, less water retention, less warping and cracking, and easier to remachine, if desired.
Please stick with cheap plain rotors - less cost, dust, noise, better pad life, less water retention, less warping and cracking, and easier to remachine, if desired.
How does a cheap 'plain' rotor result in less dust, water retention, and warping? It's rare for a rotor to warp, uneven pad deposits yes, but not warping. How is a cheap rotor easier to 'remachine'?
Seeing how I do not race my Camry at Auto-X events at themoment I am trying off the shelf parts. I decided to go with AutoZone Duralast Gold Ceramics. I figure with a lifetime warranty how can I go wrong? Buy them once and just keep replaceing them for free as the wear out. The OEM ones are Ceramic so I went that route on the after market instead of just plain semi-metalic pads.If they stop as good as the origanals I will be happy.
Some of those drilled/slotted rotors cannot be resurfaced.
Probably are. But sometimes HPS pads run a good $20 more than the Akebonos or OEM pads.
I've only had the Akebono ProACT ceramic pads on for two months and 10k miles. But they work fine and they are remarkably dust-free. I haven't been to the carwash in two weeks and the wheels are still clean. With the Pagid pads I had previously, they were dusty after one or at the most two days.
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