Brake pad question

Joined
Nov 9, 2008
Messages
19,113
Location
NH
Did a pad slap on our CRV in Febuary, gone about 700 miles since then, the other weekend I smelled a dragging brake. Not the first time I've lost a caliper after changing pads. Verified that the caliper seized. Found the outer pad is no longer flush. Rotor feels flat, not worn at an angle.

Obviously I could just replace rotors, pads, calipers but I'm kinda going for cheap here. It's a rear pad on a vehicle that is short tripped (supposed to my son's first car, but he's copped an attitude about getting his license). I'd like to just do a caliper and hope for the best, even if it's cheap money to replace it all.

CRV_brake_pad.jpg
 

supton

Thread starter
Joined
Nov 9, 2008
Messages
19,113
Location
NH
Get a piece of 80 grit sandpaper. Or a few pieces.

Drag the pad across the paper.....for a long time. Ideally, have your son do it.
Ooh, I like that, I should have thought of it in the first place. Thanks! That's a no-buck fix for this (outside of the caliper).
 

supton

Thread starter
Joined
Nov 9, 2008
Messages
19,113
Location
NH
FWIW I get my calipers from NAPA. They seem to be decent quality.
I'm on the fence of ordering from Rock or just zipping over to Autozone (or similar). Same price but, faster (today) vs better. I should check to see what NAPA has, they are closer to me.
 
Joined
Sep 27, 2015
Messages
3,743
Location
USA
The rotor has ring of rust syndrome-- the rust working its way in from the inner and outer edges is thick enough to eat into the pad and prevent it from ever breaking it back down to bare metal (which is what happens when the rust is only minor). Braking effectiveness is reduced since there is less active area.
 
Joined
Aug 15, 2009
Messages
327
Location
Colorado
I had almost the exact same thing occur on a Honda Element a few years ago. I took it into an independent shop and told them the wheel was getting very hot/smoking and I was pretty sure the caliper was seized. They did a brake job on the rear (machined rotors and put on new pads) and told me the caliper seemed fined. They didn't road test it. I get home and the back left wheel is hot as fire again so I took matters into my own hands. I put maybe 100 miles on the new pads before installing a new caliper and brake line to the caliper just in case that was the culprit. Even though I had put miles on the new seized pads with the stuck caliper they were totally fine.
 
Joined
Dec 8, 2011
Messages
714
Location
MO, USA
Pad slap, no no no, sorry but you need to do a Brake Job. New Rotors, clean with Dish soap if greasy, not Brake Cleaner, bed in new brakes, clean lubricate everything, Do not over-tighten lug nuts.
 

supton

Thread starter
Joined
Nov 9, 2008
Messages
19,113
Location
NH
Pad slap, no no no, sorry but you need to do a Brake Job. New Rotors, clean with Dish soap if greasy, not Brake Cleaner, bed in new brakes, clean lubricate everything, Do not over-tighten lug nuts.
Bah. That's light rust, most of which wiped away after a mile or two. I grease my brakes every fall, get them ready for winter.
 
Joined
Aug 30, 2004
Messages
25,572
Location
CA
Pad slap, no no no, sorry but you need to do a Brake Job. New Rotors, clean with Dish soap if greasy, not Brake Cleaner, bed in new brakes, clean lubricate everything, Do not over-tighten lug nuts.
Agree on all steps except rotors. Hypothetically, the rotors do not always require replacement if the measurements are within specs.
 
Top