Brake Lube Necessary?

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Greetings-
I noticed Eric on the South Main Auto does not apply any brake lube to pad ears, but does on the undersides of the pad clips where they fit into the bracket. It makes sense to apply some lube to clip undersides to prevent rust from pushing clips up against the pads and causing binding.

He is a highly respected tech and knows what he is going. Does tons and tons of brake jobs. So...is lubing brake pad ears really necessary?
 
Did he explicitly say he does not, or could it be overlooked in the editing of the video?

Since each brake system is slightly different, could it be an aspect of this one?

If it's a spot that is higher wash potential, I wonder if it's moot because the lube eventually goes away?

Lubrication, even if temporary, seems prudent, but not excess in a spot like this, IMO.

Prior conversation on the topic is here:

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4427497/Applying_Grease_to_the_Ears_of
 
Originally Posted by JHZR2
Did he explicitly say he does not, or could it be overlooked in the editing of the video?

Since each brake system is slightly different, could it be an aspect of this one?

If it's a spot that is higher wash potential, I wonder if it's moot because the lube eventually goes away?

Lubrication, even if temporary, seems prudent, but not excess in a spot like this, IMO.

Prior conversation on the topic is here:

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4427497/Applying_Grease_to_the_Ears_of


I watched his videos closely just for this. He did not say he does not use lube on the ears but several of his brake videos clearly show none is used. His shop is in the heart of the rust belt (upstate NY). Editing just to remove these relevant parts doesn't make sense. He shows everything from start to finish.
 
Please go to the link I provided. It appears that even FSMs give different info based upon vehicle and brake design.

What does your FSM say?
 
willbur, there is no correct, single answer. It is exactly like the conundrum surrounding use of antiseize on spark plug threads. Companies like NGK recommend not to use it. Some vehicle factory service manuals recommend it (The Critic recently posted Honda recommends a small amount).

After accepting this, it becomes a personal choice based on one's perceptions.

I choose to use a paper thin layer of Paste Lub*. In our salt laden winters, I want to slow down rust as much as possible, which a thin layer of Paste Lube assists with. The need for lubrication to assist sliding is probably minimal since the brackets are slippery stainless steel. Eventually the pad ear paint wears off and rust can start, thus my choice to lube the ears.

You will hear lots of arguments. The lube wears off fast, it collects dust, etc. If you watch 10 expert videos, you will see the "pros" doing it both ways. To each his own.

* Paste lube is a waterproof, tenacious long lasting moly lube similar (but different) to Molykote77. I have found that a paper thin layer keeps my rotor hats, hubs, other bare metal parts 100% rust free. A tub lasts many years.
https://goodson.com/collections/brake-lubes/products/bpl-2400-pastelub-brake-lubricant

Plenty of OEM's show to lube the ears. So, again like the spark plugs, choose to follow what you want. From a Honda site:
[Linked Image from static.oemdtc.com]
 
I've watched many of Eric O's brake videos. And since he isn't too far from me, I've actually stopped in SMA to meet him & shake his hand on my way to PA. I've also spoken to him over the phone.

My daughter(in PA) doesn't live far from EricO's buddy, Ivan(Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics). I haven't talked to Ivan yet.

IIRC, Eric doesn't like to add brake lube in that area due to the dirt/dust buildup in the pad ears & hardware slots that cause sticking & binding. However, I thought that I've seen him do it but I could be wrong.

I continue to put lube on the pad ears & hardware slots anywaaaay!
 
Last edited:
In a professional situation yes put grease everywhere, for it would be embarrassing for the customer to hear a little squeak on the first stop leaving the shop. On your own car it really doesn't matter.
 
The advice that SMA gives on brake lube is specific to the rust belt area. He's mentioned the reason why he does not apply the lube to the contact surfaces of the pad ears to the hardware is that the lube applied there tends to collect sand, dirt, salt, rust, debris and become hard and useless. This problem might not occur in California.,
 
I believe Eric feels since the hardware is stainless, rust is not an issue so lube is not necessary.
I will continue to lube contact surfaces.
 
Originally Posted by JeffKeryk
I believe Eric feels since the hardware is stainless, rust is not an issue so lube is not necessary.
I will continue to lube contact surfaces.

The pad ears are not stainless though. They are painted though so ideally, they won't rust. My son and I just changed the rotors and pads on his '12 Accord. I put lubricant between the hardware and the caliper bracket but not on the pad ears. We're in the rust belt like Eric O too.
 
Originally Posted by JHZR2
It appears that even FSMs give different info based upon vehicle and brake design.

What does your FSM say?

This isn't a criticism of mechanics, but how many do you think consult the FSMs for each brake job (or memorize the procedure) based on different automakers and even brake design differences within an automaker's line-up ?

FWIW, the FMS for my '08 G35 (probably applies to many Nissan and Infiniti models) says to apply "copper based brake grease" to the hardware but it doesn't say which side (only one side (which ??) or both sides).

Correction ^^^ I was just looking at the schematic initially. The written instructions say "Apply Copper based brake grease to the pad retainers before installing it to the torque member if the pad retainers has been removed". I do interpret that to mean the side between the hardware and the bracket, not the side the pads sit in.
 
Eric O from SMA does seem to change up his routine from time to time in regards to a brake job. Sorry if someone beat me to this, but I did catch him say he gets comments on why he doesn't butter up the pad ears and I believe he said he doesn't because doing so just attracts and holds onto dirt and grit which just speeds up the process of the pads getting stuck. In our rust belt climate, I agree with him on that. I live about 80 miles from SMA and have much the same roads and conditions.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by JTK
....he gets comments on why he doesn't butter up the pad ears....

Speaking of "comments", notice how his newer videos how he refers to commenters and his disdain for many of the self-proclaimed know-it-alls ?
grin.gif
 
Originally Posted by hallstevenson
Originally Posted by JTK
....he gets comments on why he doesn't butter up the pad ears....

Speaking of "comments", notice how his newer videos how he refers to commenters and his disdain for many of the self-proclaimed know-it-alls ?
grin.gif



He does seem to complain about those darn "youtubers" a lot, but yet puts out new youtube videos every week. Go figure. LOL!
 
Originally Posted by JTK
He does seem to complain about those darn "youtubers" a lot, but yet puts out new youtube videos every week. Go figure. LOL!

Nah, I think he means the weirdos and stalkers mostly along with the basement-dwelling, auto-repair, self-declared experts.
 
Originally Posted by hallstevenson
Originally Posted by JTK
He does seem to complain about those darn "youtubers" a lot, but yet puts out new youtube videos every week. Go figure. LOL!

Nah, I think he means the weirdos and stalkers mostly along with the basement-dwelling, auto-repair, self-declared experts.



Mainly the people that call his shop from all over the country looking for free advice. And he's right. He's got to put food on the table for his family, answering the phone for people that will never be within 100's of miles of his shop is just wasted time and effort. Sounds grumpy, but I've been in that same boat with people that would come by the shop, waste all your time asking questions, then buy something online, call again for help, and then never spend a dime with you.
 
Originally Posted by doitmyself
willbur, there is no correct, single answer. It is exactly like the conundrum surrounding use of antiseize on spark plug threads. Companies like NGK recommend not to use it. Some vehicle factory service manuals recommend it (The Critic recently posted Honda recommends a small amount).

After accepting this, it becomes a personal choice based on one's perceptions.

I choose to use a paper thin layer of Paste Lub*. In our salt laden winters, I want to slow down rust as much as possible, which a thin layer of Paste Lube assists with. The need for lubrication to assist sliding is probably minimal since the brackets are slippery stainless steel. Eventually the pad ear paint wears off and rust can start, thus my choice to lube the ears.

You will hear lots of arguments. The lube wears off fast, it collects dust, etc. If you watch 10 expert videos, you will see the "pros" doing it both ways. To each his own.

* Paste lube is a waterproof, tenacious long lasting moly lube similar (but different) to Molykote77. I have found that a paper thin layer keeps my rotor hats, hubs, other bare metal parts 100% rust free. A tub lasts many years.
https://goodson.com/collections/brake-lubes/products/bpl-2400-pastelub-brake-lubricant

Plenty of OEM's show to lube the ears. So, again like the spark plugs, choose to follow what you want. From a Honda site:
[Linked Image from static.oemdtc.com]


What's interesting is that FSM's may specify using lube, but if you look at a brand new vehicle, there is no lube on any of the areas specified. Pad ears will be bone dry and sometimes shims are dry. Recently did a brake job on a 2016/17 era Toyota product and even the shims no longer come with any lube. Obviously the FSM continues to specify otherwise.
 
Originally Posted by ctechbob
Mainly the people that call his shop from all over the country looking for free advice. And he's right. He's got to put food on the table for his family, answering the phone for people that will never be within 100's of miles of his shop is just wasted time and effort. Sounds grumpy, but I've been in that same boat with people that would come by the shop, waste all your time asking questions, then buy something online, call again for help, and then never spend a dime with you.

Don't get me wrong, I'm on his side 100%. I don't consider him "grumpy" in this regard at all. I think it's funny and I applaud him for calling them out.
 
Originally Posted by hallstevenson
Originally Posted by ctechbob
Mainly the people that call his shop from all over the country looking for free advice. And he's right. He's got to put food on the table for his family, answering the phone for people that will never be within 100's of miles of his shop is just wasted time and effort. Sounds grumpy, but I've been in that same boat with people that would come by the shop, waste all your time asking questions, then buy something online, call again for help, and then never spend a dime with you.

Don't get me wrong, I'm on his side 100%. I don't consider him "grumpy" in this regard at all. I think it's funny and I applaud him for calling them out.


Agree 100%


Butthurt on the internet is real. I don't think I could be a popular youtuber, I'd get too bent out of shape and probably spend 3 years arguing in the comments.
 
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