Brake job tomorrow, some questions

[Tegger]

Originally Posted By: xBa380
When I replace the sliding pins, what grease should I use for the pins to prevent any problems down the road? I have two options...

First thing you need to do is make sure the boots are properly sealed. That means new boots and pins (you're already doing that), and not a trace of rust or dirt anywhere, including inside the pin's recesses. You want a TIGHT seal all over the place, so water can't get in to begin with.

Sil-Glyde (proper spelling) is good, but I see Toyota specifies "lithium soap-based glycol" grease.

 

[Tegger]

Originally Posted By: yonyon
Originally Posted By: xBa380
Should I use copper antiseize on the rear of the rotor (that mates to the hub) to prevent sticking issues in the future?


Eww! Gross!

The thought of anti-seize on brakes brings to mind images of twisted cars dangling from treetops with globs of people-goo dripping out of them. (It's probably not going to harm anything other than my stomach.)

Maybe some nice cheerful gear oil instead?


xBa380's idea is not a bad one, actually. The grease is well-hidden from any friction surfaces.

The problem is that no grease or anti-seize actually works in the manner he hopes for. Now, Dow Molykote M77, on the other hand, stands a chance. This stuff really does prevent corrosion. It's really expensive, though.

 

[xBa380]

The front pins were fine. They were sliding just fine. Removed, wiped off, look fine.

The rear ones are getting replaced for sure. No saving them. So no worries there.

When I took off the pins, the boots looked to be seated just fine on the rear calipers. I don't know why they were in the condition they were (the pins). Front pins looked great though, clear of rust and anything else. Grease still in there. Rears totally different story.

Hopefully all goes smoothly tomorrow though. I do plan to add a very, very small layer of antiseize on the back of the rotor to prevent any lockups. Although the stock ones came off just fine. Better to be safe though.

 

[morris]

I didnt say " anti-seize on brakes" i said anti-seize on the threads. if you dont know how to use anti-seize. i cant help you.

 

[xBa380]

I use anti-seize on my threads all the time. I won't put a wheel back on without it. NEVER had the nut loosen on me, ever. I check the torques routinely too.

Due to the antiseize, I reduce torque by 20%. So my 80ft/lbs goes to around 65ft/lbs. Never any issue and my nuts come off like butter.

Love the stuff.

 

[mechtech2]

Nice work, and isn't it great to find a hard problem? Then you know for sure what was wrong.
BTW, take this extra step:
Clean the bores from corrosion [Underneath the pin rubber]. This can build up and impede brake pin movement.

I strongly lean towards Syl-Glide brake lubricant now.
Some greases are just fine, but some swell rubber -it can't be predicted which harms what. And some other dedicated brake lubes dry out and make things horridly tight.

 

[xBa380]

I got everything back on and installed. Used the permatex purple ceramic synthetic brake grease for everything. Made sure to do the pins well and movement felt good.

I am just waiting for somebody to get home to help me bleed the brake lines and I will be ready to install the wheels and hope for the best!

 

[xBa380]

Finally got everything wrapped up and complete. Just got back from bedding the brake pads and everything looks good so far. Quiet as can be and braking power felt good after break-in.

Glad to be done.

 

[Donald]

Originally Posted By: xBa380
Finally got everything wrapped up and complete. Just got back from bedding the brake pads and everything looks good so far. Quiet as can be and braking power felt good after break-in.

Glad to be done.


You have earned a cold one or two!!

 

[xBa380]

Yes, I need a few!

I did not expect it to be such a hassle. Two days, extremely sore fingers/hands, all cut up and bruised from them dang sliding pins. Toyota dealer only got 3 out of the 8 boots I wanted (was going to replace them all) and thankfully the fronts were all re-usable and the rear I was able to save one. So it worked out without having to wait another few days to finish it all. No part store I called carries them without ordering, so I was out of luck if I wanted them today. Thankfully he got 3 for me though... So it all worked out.

I cleaned everything the best I could and took my time with it all. My only concern is the rear passenger side, as I did notice with the car in the air, the drivers side tire spun more once mounted before stopping by itself. Like the brake pads were grabbing a bit harder (in park though). But maybe once I actually used the brakes and the pins had some movement and such it will work as normal. I plan to check for dragging tomorrow, but nothing appears to be abnormal in general though.

Next up is my brothers G8 GT for brakes. Hopefully that one is a bit easier to do.

Time to relax and find a beer

 

[Donald]

I am starting on my Jeeps brakes this weekend, but should be easy as the main point is to do the needed conversion from poorly working Teves calipers to Akebono calipers. So new everything, I even went for new flex hoses as these are 11 years old.

Maybe now my brakes will last longer than 20K miles.

 

[yonyon]

Originally Posted By: Donald

You have earned a cold one or two!!


^^^because a one that isn't cold is hardly a one at all.

 

[The_Eric]

Originally Posted By: xBa380

I did not expect it to be such a hassle. Two days, extremely sore fingers/hands, all cut up and bruised from them dang sliding pins.

Now, try doing it for a living... It does get easier though.





Originally Posted By: xBa380

I cleaned everything the best I could and took my time with it all. My only concern is the rear passenger side, as I did notice with the car in the air, the drivers side tire spun more once mounted before stopping by itself. Like the brake pads were grabbing a bit harder (in park though).


With the front up in the air and a helper in the driver's seat, have them step down on the brake pedal. As they are letting up, try to turn the wheel. It should go from impossible to move to completely free. If it drags for a bit then lets up, or drags all the time, it's time to replace the brake hoses and calipers.

 

[xBa380]

Thanks for the suggestion!

I did just check that side by myself (raised the car in the air, applied the brake, and then let go). Went over that wheel and it spun just fine. So it does not appear to be sticking. Probably was just the fact the rotor/wheel was not torqued yet and not driven at all. Just being over-paranoid due to all the hassles I have had!

 

[xBa380]

Last question and then I am done

So I lifted the rear of the car only. I was able to easily spin each of the rear tires. No additional resistance on one side versus the other. Spin to a stop after a few rotations.

Now I spun each tire as quickly as I could, and then hit the brake pedal quite hard to stop the tire quickly. I then went over and was able to spin the tire easily again. Did this for both sides.

So I can conclude from this that my calipers are working correctly, no? Otherwise they would stick and not be easily turned? Is this test a good method or is it flawed somehow?

I also checked the brake pad coverage on the rotor and its even across the whole pad surface on both the front and rear face of the rotor. So it appears to be working correctly.

Appreciate the help guys! Although I do any car work I can, brakes are still relatively new to me having only done it twice before, and this time I ran into much bigger issues then the previous jobs. Still learning a ton, so the help is well... Helpful!

 

[yonyon]

It's a pretty reasonable verification test. If you had any particular reason to suspect a problem, such as if you develop a brake pull or a squeal or some such, I'd like to see that while you hold the brake another person tries to turn both wheels and as you release the brake both begin to turn at the same time.

 

[kgb007stb]

I have had good experience with the 24125 permatex (red label) only because I could not find any syl-glide at the time.

Do you guys recommend lubing the sides of the brake pad back plate that comes into contact with the sliding shims to ease the movement of brake pads? Some people say yes, some say not necessary. Those that say yes, say to use a very small amount so as not to come into contact with the brake pad itself.

 

[Tegger]

Originally Posted By: xBa380
Last question and then I am done

So I lifted the rear of the car only. I was able to easily spin each of the rear tires. No additional resistance on one side versus the other. Spin to a stop after a few rotations.

Now I spun each tire as quickly as I could, and then hit the brake pedal quite hard to stop the tire quickly. I then went over and was able to spin the tire easily again. Did this for both sides.

So I can conclude from this that my calipers are working correctly, no?

Yes. But try applying and removing the parking brake, then turning the wheels. If they are the same even after that, then you're for sure fine.