I want to doo a brake fluid exchange on a 97 Q45 with 96000 on her. I was told by the shop "LEAVE IT ALONE". The reason being, that it possibly can cause damage to the calipers and seals. What do you guys think? Should I have it exchanged out?
Brake fluid exchange
- Thread starter Da Game
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If you properly bleed/flush the system with a fluid that meets the manufactures requirements for the vehicle I do not see how you could damage the seals.
And if the seals were going to get damaged and fail, id rather it happen in my driveway than when I'm on the road.
And if the seals were going to get damaged and fail, id rather it happen in my driveway than when I'm on the road.
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no because unless done totally wrong, your opening the bleeder on the calipers and fluid is just exiting the caliper before it presses against the pistons.
Depends on how you do it. If you do the two-person way with somebody pressing on the brake pedal and you depress it to the floor, it's possible because the seals may be scuffing in parts of the master cylinder bore that it hasn't touched, and if there's surface rust there, it may damage the seals. Put a block under the pedal to prevent going further than normal.
Or, use a vacuum or pressure bleeder that doesn't use the brake pedal at all, and there's no trouble.
Brake fluid will absorb moisture from the air, even through the rubber hoses. It lowers the boiling point, and causes corrosion inside. Flushing brake fluid regularly is a good idea.
One potential problem is if you've never touched the bleeders, they may not open nicely. If you do it yourself, be prepared in the off chance one breaks off. Be careful if you decide to use penetrating oil on them that it doesn't get into the brake fluid. Anything petroleum based ruins brake system seals.
Or, use a vacuum or pressure bleeder that doesn't use the brake pedal at all, and there's no trouble.
Brake fluid will absorb moisture from the air, even through the rubber hoses. It lowers the boiling point, and causes corrosion inside. Flushing brake fluid regularly is a good idea.
One potential problem is if you've never touched the bleeders, they may not open nicely. If you do it yourself, be prepared in the off chance one breaks off. Be careful if you decide to use penetrating oil on them that it doesn't get into the brake fluid. Anything petroleum based ruins brake system seals.
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won't damage a thing if you know (and capable of) how to do it right; otherwise, the damage is much greater than you think.
In other words, think no brakes while cruising down the highway.
That being said, however, you definitely need to know what type of fluid to use (either DOT3 or DOT4 most likely), and then coordinate with another person to do the pumping.
Q.
In other words, think no brakes while cruising down the highway.
That being said, however, you definitely need to know what type of fluid to use (either DOT3 or DOT4 most likely), and then coordinate with another person to do the pumping.
Q.
Originally Posted By: Quest
won't damage a thing if you know (and capable of) how to do it right; otherwise, the damage is much greater than you think.
It is true that occasionally, you'll have a "neglected" system stop functioning after a brake flush for mysterious reasons. The shop probably just wants you to be aware of the possibility.
won't damage a thing if you know (and capable of) how to do it right; otherwise, the damage is much greater than you think.
It is true that occasionally, you'll have a "neglected" system stop functioning after a brake flush for mysterious reasons. The shop probably just wants you to be aware of the possibility.
Remove old fluid from master and replace with new before bleeding.
The big issue you will run in to in your area is frozen bleeder screws!
Unless you are certain these can be moved then yes i agree leave it alone.
If you broke the bleeders the calipers wouldn't even be good for cores making the replacement more expensive.
Find a good mechanic and ask them to do the job for you if your not comfortable trying it.
Frozen bleeders can usually be loosened with some finesse and tricks of the trade.
On a 97 its something i would definitely consider again given your climate.
Unless you are certain these can be moved then yes i agree leave it alone.
If you broke the bleeders the calipers wouldn't even be good for cores making the replacement more expensive.
Find a good mechanic and ask them to do the job for you if your not comfortable trying it.
Frozen bleeders can usually be loosened with some finesse and tricks of the trade.
On a 97 its something i would definitely consider again given your climate.
dnewton3
Staff member
Being hygroscopic, I want old brake fluid out and new stuff in.
I flush mine every few years; two person method.
I flush mine every few years; two person method.
Originally Posted By: dnewton3
Being hygroscopic, I want old brake fluid out and new stuff in.
I flush mine every few years; two person method.
+1 me too. If the bleeders look corroded then I spray them with penetrating oil a few time for a week or two before attempting to loosening them. Plus I use a line wrench on them. Never a problem.
Being hygroscopic, I want old brake fluid out and new stuff in.
I flush mine every few years; two person method.
+1 me too. If the bleeders look corroded then I spray them with penetrating oil a few time for a week or two before attempting to loosening them. Plus I use a line wrench on them. Never a problem.
Originally Posted By: HerrStig
Remove old fluid from master and replace with new before bleeding.
+1 Another good tip.
Remove old fluid from master and replace with new before bleeding.
+1 Another good tip.
JTK
$100 Site Donor 2025
Shops in my area will do a brake fluid exchange if you specifically request it, but they almost never suggest it to you.
They don't want to mess with inop bleeders, nor the complaining from the customer when their ~$80 brake fluid change turns into something 4x as expensive.
I just asked when I had my 2008 Odyssey in for a State inspection. "Well.. we can do it and have exchanger equipment specifically for this, but it's really meant more for high humidity, southern climates.."
I took that as: 'We don't want to mess with your rusty junk'.
They don't want to mess with inop bleeders, nor the complaining from the customer when their ~$80 brake fluid change turns into something 4x as expensive.
I just asked when I had my 2008 Odyssey in for a State inspection. "Well.. we can do it and have exchanger equipment specifically for this, but it's really meant more for high humidity, southern climates.."
I took that as: 'We don't want to mess with your rusty junk'.
Most damage I've done when bleeding old brakes has been rounded bleeders...
Originally Posted By: buck91
Most damage I've done when bleeding old brakes has been rounded bleeders...
Best way to prevent rounded bleeders is to use a six point socket or box wrench. The higher quality, the better.
Most damage I've done when bleeding old brakes has been rounded bleeders...
Best way to prevent rounded bleeders is to use a six point socket or box wrench. The higher quality, the better.
My '06 Honda Ridgline's manual calls for a flush every three years. My '06 F350's manual does not mention anything. I had both of my vehicles done recently at a shop I trust. First time for both. Less then $90 each. The main reason I let a shop flush them is that the shop can cycle the antilock brake valves to flush them and I can't. And a test strip indicated that the Honda's fluid had some moisture in it. For me it's inexpensive maintenance.
dnewton3
Staff member
I agree with the wrench comments, but I'll add this ...
IMO the BEST way to avoid rounded bleeder screws is to not wait 5-10 years to break them loose in the first place! By the time you let it go that long, you are begging for trouble. I take a brand new vehicle and bleed it in the first year, and when I do I take the bleeder all the way out and give it a bit of anti-seize. After that, I NEVER have had issues breaking them loose for bleeding every two or three years.
But that is true of about every threaded fastener on any vehicle. As anal as it seems, I'll take a newer vehicle and break loose most of the bolts/nuts I think will need maintenance down the road (mostly suspension and brake related stuff, but also motor mounts, etc.) I don't completely dissassemble the car, but I don't want the headaches down the road. It pays dividends when you own stuff for more than a decade. It surely saves busted knuckles and cursing later on.
IMO the BEST way to avoid rounded bleeder screws is to not wait 5-10 years to break them loose in the first place! By the time you let it go that long, you are begging for trouble. I take a brand new vehicle and bleed it in the first year, and when I do I take the bleeder all the way out and give it a bit of anti-seize. After that, I NEVER have had issues breaking them loose for bleeding every two or three years.
But that is true of about every threaded fastener on any vehicle. As anal as it seems, I'll take a newer vehicle and break loose most of the bolts/nuts I think will need maintenance down the road (mostly suspension and brake related stuff, but also motor mounts, etc.) I don't completely dissassemble the car, but I don't want the headaches down the road. It pays dividends when you own stuff for more than a decade. It surely saves busted knuckles and cursing later on.
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