Brake fluid change!??

[miden851]

I was wondering what's the community take on changing brake fluid; Case in point, my 16 CRV is four years old now and since Honda recommends change brake fluid every three years I was wondering is it worth it and do you guys follow up with brake fluid change interval on your car;

I spoke to a Honda service department here locally and they're asking $140 after the coupon for such service; I also ask fo the price of the fluid DOT3 and I was quoted $6.00 for a container; the parts guy said i'd need one container only

needless to say, my Accord has better stopping power than our CRV

 

[vivaUkraine]

By brake fluid test strips on Amazon. On my car, after 3+ years fluid was significantly enough degraded - not dead, but well spent. My car's manual calls for replacement every 2 years.

 

[Quattro Pete]

Every 2 years on my BMW.

 

[gathermewool]

Every 3 or so years. Worst case, never to exceed the first brake job.

I'd like to do it more frequently, but it's not a fun job for one person, so I tend to buy fluid at the 2-3 year mark and then wait longer to do the actual job.

 

[ollie]

Every 2 years at most. It also includes pulling calipers, lubing sliders and measuring wear.

 

[slacktide_bitog]

Yes, replace it every 3 years. Any DOT 3 or DOT 4 will be fine, even Walmart brand.

Speed bleeders make the job so easy

 

[Oro_O]

I do a low-hassle method that works great.

Every year I change the reservoir fluid with DOT 4. The fluid mixes pretty quickly after driving and you get a little less than 1/2 new fluid in, no risk of air from bleeding (via screws; very common). Since I live in the Seattle area now I do this annually regardless of mileage (as low as 3/4k on some vehicles). Works great. If you want a higher % new fluid in at once, just repeat it once a week for a one or two weeks.

In your case, I would do it twice, then once a year.

 

[ctechbob]

Every year or so. More often if I've done something to get it hot. Also when I change pads.

 

[dblshock]

When you just replace part of the reservoir does that eventually cycle through the entire system?

 

[CR94]

I do a low-hassle method that works great.

Every year I change the reservoir fluid with DOT 4. The fluid mixes pretty quickly after driving and you get a little less than 1/2 new fluid in,...

I doubt that method will get any new fluid into the individual calipers or wheel cylinders.

 

[Oro_O]

I doubt that method will get any new fluid into the individual calipers or wheel cylinders.

It fully mixes in a pretty short time. Brownian motion. You simply can't stop it from mixing fully. You can use test strips in the reservoir to demonstrate.

When you just replace part of the reservoir does that eventually cycle through the entire system?

Yep, it's like ice melting in a bottle of coke - it's going to fully mix and not just sit in a blob of water and layer of coke. All the molecules in the fluid are constantly blipping around a tiny little bit. It's constant and makes it mix fully over time. Driving speeds it up a lot because the reservoir and the piston chambers are in direct contact, then the fluid pressure churns it more.

 

[edyvw]

Every two years, not a day longer.
On BMW? I track that car, so will end up probably several times a year.

 

[gathermewool]

It fully mixes in a pretty short time. Brownian motion. You simply can't stop it from mixing fully. You can use test strips in the reservoir to demonstrate.




Yep, it's like ice melting in a bottle of coke - it's going to fully mix and not just sit in a blob of water and layer of coke. All the molecules in the fluid are constantly blipping around a tiny little bit. It's constant and makes it mix fully over time. Driving speeds it up a lot because the reservoir and the piston chambers are in direct contact, then the fluid pressure churns it more.

Based on the fact that black gunk, followed by some very dark fluid came out of a drum brake while bleeding, while the reservoir looked great disproves this IME. It's not unusual to see some nastier fluid come out before it begins to clear, leading me to believe that the fluid in a caliper does NOT fully mix with fresher reservoir fluid.

Also, how is air getting into the fittings if it's a low point? Very confusing....
-----A very easy one-man way to bleed the brakes of nasty fluid is to simply open the zerk and let the fluid gravity-bleed. Works well, even if not as effective as applying some motive force/vacuum.

Finally, how is your soda analogy appropriate? Does your brake fluid effervesce?

 

[Oro_O]

Based on the fact that black gunk, followed by some very dark fluid came out of a drum brake while bleeding, while the reservoir looked great disproves this IME.

Lines get blockages, so this one-off incident doesn't mean a lot. And it sounds like that was happening. It won't do anything about solids or gross contaminants that have got past seals - certainly not. But the OP has a four year-old car, not a neglected mess. This works on cars with good working brake systems but no, it's not magic!

It's not unusual to see some nastier fluid come out before it begins to clear, leading me to believe that the fluid in a caliper does NOT fully mix with fresher reservoir fluid.

I don't see that routinely.

Also, how is air getting into the fittings if it's a low point? Very confusing....

Pretty common - the screw threads are not air-tight. It's quite common for air to come back in for most DIY'ers if the technique is not perfect.

Finally, how is your soda analogy appropriate? Does your brake fluid effervesce?

Miscible liquids (or gasses, etc.) don't have some invisible barrier to separate them; they mix.

 

[1000MPH]

Gravity bleed works well if you’ve got the time. I make sure the bleed bottle and tubing are above the caliper and the end of the tubing is in fluid. Make sure the tubing is on tight, use a zip tie and only open the bleeders a 1/4 turn, no air will get in from there. You can also pump the brakes by yourself this way since air will not enter through the tubing when you let off the pedal.

 

[CR94]

It fully mixes in a pretty short time. Brownian motion. You simply can't stop it from mixing fully. You can use test strips in the reservoir to demonstrate.
...
Yep, it's like ice melting in a bottle of coke - it's going to fully mix and not just sit in a blob of water and layer of coke. All the molecules in the fluid are constantly blipping around a tiny little bit. It's constant and makes it mix fully over time.

That idea might work within the reservoir, but won't replace the old degraded fluid in a rear caliper for a very, very long time.

 

[Wolf359]

I was wondering what's the community take on changing brake fluid; Case in point, my 16 CRV is four years old now and since Honda recommends change brake fluid every three years I was wondering is it worth it and do you guys follow up with brake fluid change interval on your car;

I spoke to a Honda service department here locally and they're asking $140 after the coupon for such service; I also ask fo the price of the fluid DOT3 and I was quoted $6.00 for a container; the parts guy said i'd need one container only

needless to say, my Accord has better stopping power than our CRV

How big was the container? Walmart sells the quart container for $4.93.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Super-Tech-DOT-3-Brake-Fluid-32-oz/16821254

For Mercedes, every 2 years. They spec a Dot 4 plus brake fluid which doesn't really exist, basically Dot 4 with a higher than minimum spec boiling temperatures.

 

[2EHA]

brake fluid is the most neglected by far. theoretically it’s +1/2% water composition every year but in practice nobody cares and nothing happens until you push your brakes to the limit and the degraded fluid rears its ugly end

 

[dblshock]

you can put DOT4 fluid into any DOT3 system.

 

[miden851]

I thank you each and everyone for your input; I currently have an old open brake fluid container and turkey baster among the tools, so time is to update my inventory