Brake caliper compressor driven by ratchet

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Just a thought to share... When I do brakes, I oil-up the rubber boots with WD-40 and twist the calipers by hand very slowly to prevent the boot from ripping. Ask me how/why I learned that little trick?

At $21 bucks, I'm half tempted to buy that kit you posted. In times past, I used a junky pair of long-nose pliers. And yes, by turning it quickly by hand with long-nose pliers and by not giving the boot time to recover from the twisting deformation, I once ripped one. Live and learn...


Ray
 
If you insist on using a ratchet, just buy a cheap deep well impact socket and saw or grind a slit on both sides to fit down over the end.
 
The Lisle 25000 has a hex end that can be turned with a socket. It would be very simple to grind, drill, or weld a socket to fit the end of the OP's kit also. (Dave 9 beat me to the advice)
[Linked Image]


http://kirksconeyisland.com/product/lisle-25000-rear-disc-brake-caliper-tool/
 
Cut the end off and weld a nut or even better an old socket on there. I know sometimes they can be a little stiff, but how much torque do you need ? I could see using an impact driver or drill just to run it down and speed things up.

Originally Posted by RayCJ
Just a thought to share... When I do brakes, I oil-up the rubber boots with WD-40 and twist the calipers by hand very slowly to prevent the boot from ripping. Ask me how/why I learned that little trick?

At $21 bucks, I'm half tempted to buy that kit you posted. In times past, I used a junky pair of long-nose pliers. And yes, by turning it quickly by hand with long-nose pliers and by not giving the boot time to recover from the twisting deformation, I once ripped one. Live and learn...
$21 is cheap for that set, the ones I have rented are not that complete and it would be worth a purchase if you do your own brakes even a few times. Driving to the store costs fuel and renting can be a pain sometimes if you have to stand in line at the cash (looking at your Canadian Tire). I've been considering getting MacPherson strut compressors for the same reason, I've rented those several times.

I saw Eric O lift the dust boot and spray some brake clean under there to lube the boot. I was shocked, but I like that a little more than WD40. If you have a imperceptible hole in your dust boot, you just sprayed WD40 inside the boot.
 
Originally Posted by eljefino
I open up a needle nose pliers and crank them old-school.


Same here. And if they're tight to start with, I'll work'em with the Channel Locks to get'em moving. Then finish turning them in with the needle nose.
 
I use a similar tool for my Mustang rear brakes. I found it such a PITA to try to turn the piston w/needle nose it was easier to get the tool.
 
Originally Posted by doitmyself
The Lisle 25000 has a hex end that can be turned with a socket. It would be very simple to grind, drill, or weld a socket to fit the end of the OP's kit also. (Dave 9 beat me to the advice)
[Linked Image]


http://kirksconeyisland.com/product/lisle-25000-rear-disc-brake-caliper-tool/


I think this is what I am looking for.

Will it work on the 2011 Buick Lucerne? I am not familiar with how the caliper operates, does it rotate?
 
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Originally Posted by KrisZ
I use one of these,bought it for like $2, but I had to do some grinding in order to fit my Mazda 3 rear calipers.

[Linked Image]



I have one of these too. I couldn't get it to work on our Mazda3.
I should have talked to you first.
laugh.gif
 
The problem with the cube ones is that they tend to pop out of the holes. The other type stays put on stubborn calipers (both my Mustangs were a PITA).
 
This tool from Lang might be what you are looking for:

https://www.amazon.com/Lang-Tools-279-5420-Brake-Caliper/dp/B0079GQKDE/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2IHY7BAV7JLYJ&keywords=lang+brake+caliper+press&qid=1560176946&s=automotive&sprefix=lang+brake+ca%2Cautomotive%2C312&sr=1-2
 
You can turn any cheap caliper compressor into a ratchet driven one by cutting off or removing the handle at the end, then threading two nuts on if you don't have a welder.
 
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