Well just getting into a new 2004 Dodge SRT-4 turbocharged 2.4L engine - 14 psi boost. In the owner's manual they specifically state to use Mobil1 10w-30. The manual also states doing 3000 mile oil changes for persons that fall into the harder driving category (for which most people would qualify for). I think it would get a bit expensive swapping Mobil1 every 3000 miles. The category for easier driving calls for 5000 mile changes. Any recommendations as to how long I should go for oil changes ?.
They also dont mention anything about how long after break in to start using Mobil1 10w-30. Many people suggest using synthetic after a few thousand miles. Dodge lists break-in as being about 500 miles, so I assume that I can start using Synthetic oil right after that period. Any opinions on how long to wait before using Mobil1 or any other synthetic on this engine ?. Should swap the oil at 500 miles ?.
I gotta like Dodge, they arent pushing the envelope with this 0w-20 oil stuff , they tell you right up front to use 10w-30 and Mobil1 to boot. They also state to push the car with WOT driving during break in, suggestng that the car will break in better with some hard acceleration when cruising in different gears. Most other manufacturers tell you to take it easy for the first 1000 kms.
any opinions would be great, thanks .
Joey
[ November 27, 2003, 12:37 AM: Message edited by: Idrinkmotoroil ]
Bought a Dodge SRT-4, They Recommend Mobil1 Need some Advice.....
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Nice Car!!!
Mobil 1 10w-30 is great oil. I guess 3k miles oil changes is a little too little for such oil. I don't know if this particular turbo engine is hard on the oil. I suggest going 3k miles for 2 or 3 oil changes and do an analysis on the oil after total mileage is above 5k or 6k miles (preferably around 9k - 10k miles) to make sure that results are not affected by break-in. If results are good - go longer like 5-6k miles on one oil change. I'm sure that GC 0w-30 could easily go 10k miles or more, but would the warranty be affected?
Regards,
I just got my doors utterly and completely BLOWN!!! off by a friggin NEON!!! Was it you???
My Integra was CRYING! after that little affair.
Them SRT 6's got some GIDDY-UP!!!
(4 cylinder...yeah right...?!?!)
OK...I know they're 4 cylinder turbo's, but their still (cry-wimper-sputter...) NEONS.
On a more serious note...
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quote:The car is a TURBO, which equals heat. If Dodge was pushing 20w's, pretty soon you'd be pushing your car...cause the engine would be DONE!!! (Hotter oil is thinner oil; too thin and you will have problems...) As for oil, German Castrol Syntec 0W30 would be a good choice. Synthetic, a little thicker than most 30w's, cheap (relatively!) and sort of available. And a 40w certainly won't hurt your car, and depending on how you drive it, might actually help it !!! Redline and Amsoil also have some good (albeit more expensive...)oils as well. As for interval, thats a little tougher to judge. Most synthetics will easily go 5-6000 miles, some far longer than that. Your engine, however, is unproven yet, with regards to oil consumption and oil abuse. The car is a turbo, which is much harder on oil. Does your car have piston squirting oil jets (probably)...how many quarts does it hold...how do you drive it...? Do some reading here, and consider a used oil analysis (UOA) to get some specific info about your engines oil characteristics. PS - Don't hurt us Honda drivers too bad, we have delicate egos !!!
I gotta like Dodge, they aren't pushing the envelope with this 0w-20 oil stuff
If they are pushing Mobil1 10W30 then it probably came with M1 as factory fill!!! Sports cars are not cheap to buy or maintain. Their is a reason that they are recomending such short OCI. Manufactures push the limits on extended drains every chance they get. So if Dodge is not willing to push the drain interval up then it is for a serious durability reason. DOdge and pkyoths in the past had a lot of turbo charger failure issues.
I would use M1 10W30 with Lube COntrol added. I would start with the 10W30 they recomend and then in the warmer months I would try something thicker!
Patman
Staff member
I would run GC 0w30 or Amsoil 5w30 in that thing, with 8000km intervals. That turbo needs a thick 30wt for protection, especially in the summer heat.
The Amsoil 10w-30 is a very solid oil, if you'd prefer to stick with the recommended SAE grade. It's thick enough to also meet the ACEA "A3/B4" specs and VW 502/505. I'm currently running the Amsoil 10w-30 in a 2002, 1.8L, 225 Hp, Audi TT and visually it's doing well after 6000 miles. I intend to test if after 9k-10k miles (if I can ever get my wife to give me her car for a day!)
You can safely run Amsoil for at least 5000 miles in that motor ...even if you drive like Patman
TS
TSVery very tough engine, so I wouldn't worry too much about it. Mitsu turbo; they've been making them for a long time.
It wouldn't surprise me however if the demand for 3k OCIs was a defensive play, warrantee wise. You KNOW people are going to drive the living he77 out of those cars, and since most people won't bother to keep good OC records Dodge may be in a better position to avoid some of the inevitable warrantee claims.
I run M1 in my turbo Miata and change it every 5k; the oil is solid, it should be able to handle that. If you want peace of mind, run your first couple intervals at 3k then move up to a 5k interval after that, supplementing with analysis just to be sure the oil isn't getting hammered. If it was my car I'd change at 250 miles then again at 1000 miles just to make sure all the swarf was out of the picture.
Drive fast, take chances!
Robert
Tough one.
Usually I'd recommend a 50 weight for a turbo, but you are in Canada and this is a very new/tight engine.
Then there are warranty concerns AND these engines have had some problems with their oil pumps, which I am not sure have been fixed yet.
I belive there is an imternal TSB out (I dont know the details since this is not my usual brand).
So in short best to stick with te thickest strongest 30 weight you can find (if you only go off the shelf):
The GC 0w-30.
Fred... ![[Smile]](images/icons/smile.gif)
Remember that Dodge uses a 7500 mile OCI with this engine in a non-turbo application!! I agree with palmerwmd that something thicker then 30wt would be my first in a turbo as well. Seeing how it is winter and you do not have any UOA baseline I think 10W30 will work just fine. I know people are tired of hearing me say this but the classic M15W50 for warm months and 10W30 for winters is kind of time tested. We also need to remember that M1 10W30 has been thicked up.
With all of this said itis impossable to ignore the fact that Amsoil 10W30 is a better winter oil because of it's lower cold crank and pour numbers! Amsoil 15W40 would work just as well in the summer as M1 15W50.
P.S. I have heard that Mobile Delvac1 is rather cheap in Canada compared to most synthetic oils? If this is true then you might consider it for year round use. It is designed for use in Turbo Diesels wich see lot highr boost pressure then you car see's.
Patman
Staff member
quote:Delvac 1 is more expensive here. It's $35 for a 4L jug, while M1 has 4L jugs for $28, but often has the 4.5L jugs on specials for $25. GC 0w30 is $6.66 per liter.
Originally posted by JohnBrowning: P.S. I have heard that Mobile Delvac1 is rather cheap in Canada compared to most synthetic oils? If this is true then you might consider it for year round use. It is designed for use in Turbo Diesels wich see lot highr boost pressure then you car see's.
Yea, those SRT-4s can hold their own! And the upgradeability is inreal cause it already has a front mount. Get a 3 inch turbo-back exhaust and a quality manual boost controller at about 15 psi, alond with an open element air filter, and you'll be pulling 110mph trap speeds at the track. The good ball and spring manual boost controllers will decrease spool time dramatically. Do you know exactly what kind of turbo comes stock? If it's the old TD05 series Mitsubishi turbos, then you literally have about a dozen different upgrades available that will bolt on with no problem. I think they also have ECU upgrades that dramatically increase performance as well.
quote:I think ist pretty well established its at least a group IV. Its speacs are not achievable with a group III ( A3 in a 0w-30 and such a low pour point) Fred,,
Originally posted by unDummy: Has anyone proven that GC is a synth or is it a group3?
Use what it comes with and what is recommended.
Has anyone proven that GC is a synth or is it a group3?
I wouldn't use a group 3 in a turbo car.
Stick with any of the known group4/5 synthetics.
Follow the owners manual for the time interval.
Better be safe than sorry.
I also believe that the 2004 SRT4 is upgraded and that all 2.4 engines have improved engineering for 2004.
The turbo is water cooled. Maybe oil choice isn't as important as I want to believe. Is there an oil cooler? If oil temp is in check always, use whatever you want.
thanks for all the great info guys !, much appreciated. Geeeman, I would describe myself as the biggest Honda fan in Canada, owned only Hondas my whole life and worshipped their racing teams, nothing but Honda t shirts, hats, and jackets in my home. But I decided to jump ship and trade my civic SiR in for the Dodge. I'll do my best to go easy on the Honda guys. Although a boosted Honda is no slouch either, and there are plenty of them out there.
I think I will dump the factory oil at 500 miles and then start running Mobil1 10w-30 and do some analysis on it. Although I am a big fan of Castrol 0w-30 (and I've got a few quarts remaining from my last vehicle) I am unsure if it will affect my warranty as the manual does not list any 0w oils as being compatible. I know it will hold up but I dont want to get into warranty problems with a domestic auto. manufacturer, too much small print in their warranty coverage.
I'd like to run 5k on Mobil1 as it would be reasonably affordable compared to 3k runs, I'll use analysis testing to see how it works out. Nice to see a turbo Miata hold up for that length of time. thanks again guys !
Joey
No one has recomended 0-40 Mobil 1 but this sees ideal for this application. I know it thins out so UOA would be cheap insurance anyway. Of course 10w-30 is the best Mobil 1 close to a 30 weight. Can't lose with either in my opinion.
If I'm not mistaken, your new Dodge comes w/ a 7 year/ 70K mile powertrain warranty. If so, DC is being very strict on regular maintenance upkeep on their vehicles w/ this warranty (requiring owners to show their maintenance log in their owner's manual for every service visit). IMHO-I would just stick to the M1 10w-30 every 3K miles & not worry about it. Just my $.02.
I'm pretty sure that the oil brand would fall under M-G act rules, but the viscosity and certifications would NOT. That is, as long as you run an oil that matches the required viscosity and certs, they would not have a leg to stand on as far as denial of warranty, unless they are willing to provide Mobil 1 free of charge.
That said, I feel that Mobil 1 is a very good oil, and see no reason to not run Mobil 1.
I would really like to change my own oil, but given their warranty I dont know how I would protect myself in case of an engine related problem. I could keep all my receipts but that may not be enough to convince them hugh ?.
thanks
Joey
I never had a problem with Chrysler making good on a warranty repair. If anything, they are more likely to do a little extra to keep a customer than others (mainly Ford). Follow the owners manual and keep your receipts just to CYA. Shouldn't really be a big deal unless you're like me and a sloppy records keeper. I'll dare to say that once owning a Mopar product you'll never buy another ricer. You get more for your money. Good luck! ![[Cheers!]](/forums/graemlins/cheers.gif)
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