Bought a Cheap Accord

[JoeDirt41]

Title finally showed up in the mail. I'll be able to get the car registered this week and see how it drives on a real road.

Also, my Dad informed me that his company has an in-house locksmith, and it would be no problem for him to cut those keys for me.

Today I pulled each wheel off and pressure washed the wheel wells. There was a lot of dirt and grease in all of them that I noticed when I cracked the brake bleeders the other day. Here's a before and after of the passenger front-

Afterward I washed the whole exterior. Washing in sunlight is a pain, but the foam cannon makes it a little easier. I pulled it in the garage to dry it off, and I'm gonna try to put some wax on it before I return it to its spot in the driveway.

 

[terry274]

That car is looking sharp. Well done!

 

[researcher]

Title finally showed up in the mail. I'll be able to get the car registered this week and see how it drives on a real road.

Also, my Dad informed me that his company has an in-house locksmith, and it would be no problem for him to cut those keys for me.

Today I pulled each wheel off and pressure washed the wheel wells. There was a lot of dirt and grease in all of them that I noticed when I cracked the brake bleeders the other day. Here's a before and after of the passenger front-
View attachment 248335View attachment 248336
Afterward I washed the whole exterior. Washing in sunlight is a pain, but the foam cannon makes it a little easier. I pulled it in the garage to dry it off, and I'm gonna try to put some wax on it before I return it to its spot in the driveway.
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all you need now is to throw on some nice wax and it'll look almost new! great job! almost looking like a time capsule!

hey glad to hear the title showed up, ya they're a little slow.. about 2-3 weeks here in Michigan

 

[Delta]

Title finally showed up in the mail. I'll be able to get the car registered this week and see how it drives on a real road.

Also, my Dad informed me that his company has an in-house locksmith, and it would be no problem for him to cut those keys for me.

Today I pulled each wheel off and pressure washed the wheel wells. There was a lot of dirt and grease in all of them that I noticed when I cracked the brake bleeders the other day. Here's a before and after of the passenger front-
View attachment 248335View attachment 248336
Afterward I washed the whole exterior. Washing in sunlight is a pain, but the foam cannon makes it a little easier. I pulled it in the garage to dry it off, and I'm gonna try to put some wax on it before I return it to its spot in the driveway.
View attachment 248337
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Whoa, a 90's Honda in PA that still has rockers, quarter panels, and front inner wheel well structure? I don't think I've seen that since the late 90's!

 

[JoeDirt41]

That car is looking sharp. Well done!

Thank you!

all you need now is to throw on some nice wax and it'll look almost new! great job! almost looking like a time capsule!

hey glad to hear the title showed up, ya they're a little slow.. about 2-3 weeks here in Michigan

Thanks! I put a coat of my favorite Collinite 845 Insulator Wax on it last night. I still need to deep clean the interior, but it doesn't look too bad as-is.

Whoa, a 90's Honda in PA that still has rockers, quarter panels, and front inner wheel well structure? I don't think I've seen that since the late 90's!

The car has a 10 footer Maaco paint job on it, (unfortunately not the original color) and I can tell someone patched the usual spots near the back of the rear wheel arches, but everywhere looks good as far as rust. All the important areas like strut mounts, jack points, pinch welds, front rails, etc. The paint job would probably look a lot better if it was cut and buffed. If I get bored one day maybe I'll try it on a small area.

 

[researcher]

Thank you!

Thanks! I put a coat of my favorite Collinite 845 Insulator Wax on it last night. I still need to deep clean the interior, but it doesn't look too bad as-is.

The car has a 10 footer Maaco paint job on it, (unfortunately not the original color) and I can tell someone patched the usual spots near the back of the rear wheel arches, but everywhere looks good as far as rust. All the important areas like strut mounts, jack points, pinch welds, front rails, etc. The paint job would probably look a lot better if it was cut and buffed. If I get bored one day maybe I'll try it on a small area.

ahh so it did have the typical rust around the rear wheel arches like everything, including my old 96 Civic! But if they caught it early and patched it, it could stop the spread.. but sounds like everything else that's important is good!

can't wait for the update when you get it on the road and are able to drive it and see how it's running!

 

[JoeDirt41]

ahh so it did have the typical rust around the rear wheel arches like everything, including my old 96 Civic! But if they caught it early and patched it, it could stop the spread.. but sounds like everything else that's important is good!

can't wait for the update when you get it on the road and are able to drive it and see how it's running!

Yeah it must've had some rust in those spots. The bodywork that was done really wasn't the greatest but for now it's fine. The important areas I mentioned don't appear to have been repaired and they are nice and solid.

I got the car registered and plated yesterday. I drove it around for a few miles, didn't want to go too far as it still isn't inspected, but it seemed to drive alright. The ABS light has been on since I've had it, it though it briefly went out while on the drive, before back on.

My dad took my key blanks to work and had them cut. They are nice and sharp and they work great on all of the locks and the ignition.

My rotors came in from RockAuto as well as the CV axle. Still waiting on brake pads. I ordered Centric rotors, but the ones I got are actually Prostop, which was the old Pepboys house brand. They were listed as private label, so that makes sense.

Spent some time polishing a section of the roof today. I wetsanded an area with a 3M trizact disc and polished out with 3M 1 step and a wool pad on a rotary polisher. It's a very big improvement and looks much more professional, but it was a lot of work for something that likely only I will notice. I might do it slowly, one section a

 

[researcher]

Yeah it must've had some rust in those spots. The bodywork that was done really wasn't the greatest but for now it's fine. The important areas I mentioned don't appear to have been repaired and they are nice and solid.

I got the car registered and plated yesterday. I drove it around for a few miles, didn't want to go too far as it still isn't inspected, but it seemed to drive alright. The ABS light has been on since I've had it, it though it briefly went out while on the drive, before back on.

My dad took my key blanks to work and had them cut. They are nice and sharp and they work great on all of the locks and the ignition.

My rotors came in from RockAuto as well as the CV axle. Still waiting on brake pads. I ordered Centric rotors, but the ones I got are actually Prostop, which was the old Pepboys house brand. They were listed as private label, so that makes sense.
View attachment 248664
Spent some time polishing a section of the roof today. I wetsanded an area with a 3M trizact disc and polished out with 3M 1 step and a wool pad on a rotary polisher. It's a very big improvement and looks much more professional, but it was a lot of work for something that likely only I will notice. I might do it slowly, one section a
View attachment 248663

wow that roof looks great.. maybe that cheap paint job had too much orange peel, because now it's looking like you said, much more professional!

and the locksmith at your dad's work, also awesome news! The abs light on isn't the best news, but if that's the only issue so far, it's going well. Nothing is perfect, but be interesting to see what's causing that abs check light.

ahh private label, lowest price stuff at Rockauto, makes sense, but hey should be ok for what you're doing.

Thanks for the update, glad to hear it's going well!

 

[JoeDirt41]

All my parts have arrived, and I painted the hats and and edges of the rotors since I don't like installing unpainted ones that rust immediately. I just masked them and used some caliper paint. Pads look decent for what they cost, they included hardware. I also got a set of cheap wipers from work- just the conventional type, that's all it would've had when it was new. Just need to find a day where I have time to install everything.

I got my insurance paperwork so I've been driving it a bit. Put about 50 miles on it so far. The emissions monitors haven't set yet, so it's still too early to take it for inspection. I drove it for about 10 miles today, and noticed only as I pulled in the driveway coming home that the oil light was faintly flickering again at idle. Anywhere above idle, even just the slightest bit, and it would go out. I've been reading online, and apparently if the sensor is leaking, it can deliver faulty low readings, and mine is very wet, so that may be a possibility. The switch is cheap and easy to change. When I go to replace it, I'll hook up a mechanical gauge and see for sure what is going on.

The engine and transmission are both leaking a good bit. They are leaving drips on the driveway. I'm going to definitely replace the valve cover gasket which is hemorrhaging, and then I'm going to add some AT-205 reseal to both the engine and transmission when I change the oil and ATF very shortly. I've read only good things about it so maybe it'll work.

 

[dlundblad]

Didn’t read all 7 pages, but I looked at one before buying my Blazer. I was told to keep an eye on the rust on the sub frame, but other than that they are pretty solid cars.

 

[kschachn]

All my parts have arrived, and I painted the hats and and edges of the rotors since I don't like installing unpainted ones that rust immediately. I just masked them and used some caliper paint. Pads look decent for what they cost, they included hardware. I also got a set of cheap wipers from work- just the conventional type, that's all it would've had when it was new. Just need to find a day where I have time to install everything.
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I got my insurance paperwork so I've been driving it a bit. Put about 50 miles on it so far. The emissions monitors haven't set yet, so it's still too early to take it for inspection. I drove it for about 10 miles today, and noticed only as I pulled in the driveway coming home that the oil light was faintly flickering again at idle. Anywhere above idle, even just the slightest bit, and it would go out. I've been reading online, and apparently if the sensor is leaking, it can deliver faulty low readings, and mine is very wet, so that may be a possibility. The switch is cheap and easy to change. When I go to replace it, I'll hook up a mechanical gauge and see for sure what is going on.

The engine and transmission are both leaking a good bit. They are leaving drips on the driveway. I'm going to definitely replace the valve cover gasket which is hemorrhaging, and then I'm going to add some AT-205 reseal to both the engine and transmission when I change the oil and ATF very shortly. I've read only good things about it so maybe it'll work.

Are you familiar with how to install those captive rotors?

 

[JoeDirt41]

Are you familiar with how to install those captive rotors?

Yeah, you've got to remove the lower ball joint and knock them out from the back. The drivers side has to come apart to do the CV axle anyways.

 

[kschachn]

Yeah, you've got to remove the lower ball joint and knock them out from the back. The drivers side has to come apart to do the CV axle anyways.

Yeah sort of, you can knock out the bearing from the back using the attachment bolts and this will allow you to replace the rotor. But sometimes the bearing is rusted in the hub and you can’t get it out without damage. If you weren’t replacing the axles you can do this with the ball joints still attached.

 

[michaelluscher]

The only pro I can see to this captive design is that over torquing lug nuts won't warp the rotor
ETCG was (still is) an OG when it comes to older Honda lore
He has a good video on captive rotor replacement
I'd get those long bolts and 12 point socket to hand, seems essential


Apparently you can swap spindles from certain years Acura CL that bolt on, reuse your calipers, and have a normal style rotor

 

[JoeDirt41]

The only pro I can see to this captive design is that over torquing lug nuts won't warp the rotor
ETCG was (still is) an OG when it comes to older Honda lore
He has a good video on captive rotor replacement
I'd get those long bolts and 12 point socket to hand, seems essential


Apparently you can swap spindles from certain years Acura CL that bolt on, reuse your calipers, and have a normal style rotor

He's got tons of great videos on these 90s Accords. Definitely a great resource.

 

[PandaBear]

I had a Honda and a Toyota with a bad coil before, around that age too. Milage was about 240k when that happen and you can measure the resistance against spec in different temperature (room temp and freezer after a couple hours). Or you can pull one from junkyard to test and see.

The one in Toyota totally cracked and no need to test. The Honda one later had a bad plug wire that's also very obvious when look at.

 

[PandaBear]

The trannys on these are pretty fragile, I'd do a couple fluid changes once you get it operable.

This one should be fine, it is a 4 cyl and before the dark age.

 

[JoeDirt41]

I've been reading a bunch online and it looks like these oil pressure switches are a very common failure item, so I went to the Honda dealer to purchase a new one. I could've gone aftermarket but I have trust issues with aftermarket electrical parts. The dealer had it in stock, but wanted $86 and change for it. I asked the counterguy if he could do any better than list price and he refused.

But he printed out the quote for me with the part number. So I looked up the part number online, and found it on the Honda Dreamshop website, which is Honda's official dealer parts network website for $55 with the option to pick it up in person from the SAME DEALER. So I rung it out online, drove back to the dealer, gave them the paperwork and walked out with the part. Quote is on bottom, actual receipt on top.

I also got a set of owners manuals from ebay for $10 since the car didn't come with any. Came with a cardboard pouch from Academy Honda in Old Bridge, New Jersey.

 

[kschachn]

The only pro I can see to this captive design is that over torquing lug nuts won't warp the rotor
ETCG was (still is) an OG when it comes to older Honda lore
He has a good video on captive rotor replacement
I'd get those long bolts and 12 point socket to hand, seems essential


Apparently you can swap spindles from certain years Acura CL that bolt on, reuse your calipers, and have a normal style rotor

They really aren’t that hard to replace if the bearing isn’t frozen in the hub. But not as easy as “normal” ones for sure.

 

[researcher]

I've been reading a bunch online and it looks like these oil pressure switches are a very common failure item, so I went to the Honda dealer to purchase a new one. I could've gone aftermarket but I have trust issues with aftermarket electrical parts. The dealer had it in stock, but wanted $86 and change for it. I asked the counterguy if he could do any better than list price and he refused.

But he printed out the quote for me with the part number. So I looked up the part number online, and found it on the Honda Dreamshop website, which is Honda's official dealer parts network website for $55 with the option to pick it up in person from the SAME DEALER. So I rung it out online, drove back to the dealer, gave them the paperwork and walked out with the part. Quote is on bottom, actual receipt on top.
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I also got a set of owners manuals from ebay for $10 since the car didn't come with any. Came with a cardboard pouch from Academy Honda in Old Bridge, New Jersey.
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That's hilarious, no deal asking over the counter but ok if you order online.. wow talk about a huge disconnect of reality! but good for you to do that and get a much better deal. I agree with you about the aftermarket parts, some are ok but most are a gamble. I know with the IACV, idle air control valve, the aftermarket looked exactly like the Honda part but the difference was, it's the rejects Honda doesn't accept at the end of the production run! Stupid thing died twice (1 was the warranty replacement) both lasted less than a year. Using the Honda part, never another problem.

And that's awesome it's a common failure! Makes sense an intermittent electrical connection causing the oil light to flash or stay on. So far looks like the "big problems" aren't that much on your car, which is a blessing!

and yup I remember that cardboard case for the owner's manual.. wasn't until later that the nicer zip up ones came out from the manufacturers. Off topic.. My Scion even came with a section of the zip up holder that has a first aid kit.. from 06! I think I'll replace those band-aids.. lol