Bought a Cheap Accord

That's hilarious, no deal asking over the counter but ok if you order online.. wow talk about a huge disconnect of reality! but good for you to do that and get a much better deal. I agree with you about the aftermarket parts, some are ok but most are a gamble. I know with the IACV, idle air control valve, the aftermarket looked exactly like the Honda part but the difference was, it's the rejects Honda doesn't accept at the end of the production run! Stupid thing died twice (1 was the warranty replacement) both lasted less than a year. Using the Honda part, never another problem.

And that's awesome it's a common failure! Makes sense an intermittent electrical connection causing the oil light to flash or stay on. So far looks like the "big problems" aren't that much on your car, which is a blessing! (y)

and yup I remember that cardboard case for the owner's manual.. wasn't until later that the nicer zip up ones came out from the manufacturers. Off topic.. My Scion even came with a section of the zip up holder that has a first aid kit.. from 06! I think I'll replace those band-aids.. lol

Yeah I thought it was pretty funny myself. Probably made the counter guy mad too because now he doesn't even get credit for the sale.

I'm fine with certain aftermarket parts, and if this one was in an easier spot to access, I'd be more willing to chance it, but it's on the backside of the engine under the intake and above the oil filter. Not really a fun place to get to.

I doubt there is a ton of useful info in the owner's manual, but I still like to have one. The era-correct dealer pouch was just something I thought was cool.

I've got a nice pile of parts built up here and I just need to find the time to install them. This week and next are pretty busy with school, but I'm off the week of Thanksgiving and I should be able to do everything I want to get done that week.
 
Finally got to work on the car today. And what a day it was. I started with the driver's side front, got the knuckle off and noticed the upper ball joint had a ripped boot but the joint was still tight. No big deal, I had to run to the store to purchase the bolts I needed to drive the hubs out of the knuckles anyway, I'd stop at the parts store and get the cheapest ball joint I could find and steal the boot off it.
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Had to go to a different parts store than my usual one to get the ball joint, but it was only a little bit further away. They only had one in stock, or I would have bought two. Then trying to find the bolts (M10-1.25 x 100) was a pain. Struck out at Home Depot and Ace, but finally Lowe's had them.

After that run, I got back to the garage, fixed the ball joint boot, knocked the bearings out of the knuckles, and went to put on my new rotors.
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Andddd.... they didn't fit. Somehow the center hole was not machined big enough to fit over the bearing. I tried to grind away some metal, to no avail. I matched it up to the old rotor, and it was seriously under-machined. So I drove back out, to another parts store that had the rotors, checked them against my originals and these were much better. Unfortunately not painted and I didn't have time to paint them like I did the first set.
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At this point, I got back to the garage, installed the new rotor, replaced the CV axle, and got the drivers side back together. I then started on the passenger side, which wound up needing both ball joints. Back to the parts store, bought an entire upper control arm and a lower ball joint. Got home, Installed everything, and the front brakes and driver's CV axle job is finally done...
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I bought a set of sway bar end links too but didn't get to them today. The existing ones have seen better days.
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Finally got to work on the car today. And what a day it was. I started with the driver's side front, got the knuckle off and noticed the upper ball joint had a ripped boot but the joint was still tight. No big deal, I had to run to the store to purchase the bolts I needed to drive the hubs out of the knuckles anyway, I'd stop at the parts store and get the cheapest ball joint I could find and steal the boot off it.
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Had to go to a different parts store than my usual one to get the ball joint, but it was only a little bit further away. They only had one in stock, or I would have bought two. Then trying to find the bolts (M10-1.25 x 100) was a pain. Struck out at Home Depot and Ace, but finally Lowe's had them.

After that run, I got back to the garage, fixed the ball joint boot, knocked the bearings out of the knuckles, and went to put on my new rotors.
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Andddd.... they didn't fit. Somehow the center hole was not machined big enough to fit over the bearing. I tried to grind away some metal, to no avail. I matched it up to the old rotor, and it was seriously under-machined. So I drove back out, to another parts store that had the rotors, checked them against my originals and these were much better. Unfortunately not painted and I didn't have time to paint them like I did the first set.
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At this point, I got back to the garage, installed the new rotor, replaced the CV axle, and got the drivers side back together. I then started on the passenger side, which wound up needing both ball joints. Back to the parts store, bought an entire upper control arm and a lower ball joint. Got home, Installed everything, and the front brakes and driver's CV axle job is finally done...
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I bought a set of sway bar end links too but didn't get to them today. The existing ones have seen better days.
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wow.. ya it's always something, isn't it?! best plans and then had to quickly change them. But good to hear you got most of it done! was wondering when the next update would happen, but hey it is Thanksgiving week. I bet you're giving thanks now it's getting done! (y)
 
Ouch, that is a lot of rust. Glad I am out here where after 20 years a car can still look like this before it's first ever brake job.

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Isn't it nice that someone likes to point out how much better they are in a rust-free area? Of course it looks better.. but to be fair.. and show both sides of the non-rust/rust areas.., that "lots of rust" on @JoeDirt41 car isn't that bad, it's just a patina, really, it gets worse than that!! much worse til the point it's just dust, not rust.
 
Ouch, that is a lot of rust. Glad I am out here where after 20 years a car can still look like this before it's first ever brake job.

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This car really isn't rusty at all. The surface rust is just on the cast iron parts which only had a light coat of paint on them from the factory to begin with. Actually the car was rust-free enough that all of the cotter pins came out easily and I didn't need heat to remove any bolts.

Now if you want to see rust... here's a few cars I've worked on that had rust.
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wow.. ya it's always something, isn't it?! best plans and then had to quickly change them. But good to hear you got most of it done! was wondering when the next update would happen, but hey it is Thanksgiving week. I bet you're giving thanks now it's getting done! (y)
Yep, glad I got the worst of it out of the way for sure! I was definitely getting eager to work on it, just had a busy schedule these past few weeks.

Gonna try to get the sway bar links and rear brakes done today, and if I have time, I'll get the oil pressure sensor and the valve cover gasket.
 
This car really isn't rusty at all. The surface rust is just on the cast iron parts which only had a light coat of paint on them from the factory to begin with. Actually the car was rust-free enough that all of the cotter pins came out easily and I didn't need heat to remove any bolts.

Now if you want to see rust... here's a few cars I've worked on that had rust.
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I don't see how rust belt cars don't literally fall apart while being driven.
 
Finished up the front end today, (I did stake that axle nut, @GSCJR). Replaced the sway bar end links, made sure all the castle nuts had a cotter pin.

The rear brakes were a lot easier than the fronts. I had to replace the slide pins and boots on the driver's side as they were seized, but otherwise no issues.
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Once the rear brakes were done, I took it for a short ride to make sure it stopped okay. The brakes will still need to bed in for the next hundred miles or so but seems like everything is installed and working correctly.

After that, I got the car back to the garage and put it up on ramps. I drained the oil and pulled the oil filter so that I could access the oil pressure switch a little easier to replace it. The switch I removed looked to be aftermarket, I'm betting someone replaced it once before. Hopefully the new OEM one lasts a little longer.

Finally, I got around to the valve cover gasket. I cleaned the majority of the grime off the inside of the valve cover. Still not perfect, but a lot better than it was. The kit came with new bolt seals and new spark plug tube seals as well. I put a dab of Ultra Grey RTV in each of the corners and got it reinstalled it.
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I still need to fill up the oil but I want to let the RTV cure overnight before I start dumping oil in. I have some Valvoline Maxlife 5w30 ready to go in. The new filter is on, it's just a basic, red Carquest standard.
 
Walmart had a Black Friday deal on tires, $47 each for Goodyear Reliants. That was too good of a deal to pass up. I ordered four of them online and picked them up yesterday. I'll get someone else to mount them. I had these same Goodyear Reliants on my Buick Lacrosse and I liked them just fine. Very quiet and rode smooth. Made in the USA too.
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Today I replaced some of the interior light bulbs. The shift indicator bulb was burnt out, as was the lighter surround and the ashtray. I only had two bulbs, still gotta get one for the ashtray, but I got the lighter and the shifter indicator working.
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I was glad to see while I had it apart that whoever installed the aftermarket stereo didn't cut up the wiring harness, they made an adapter harness. Should make reverting back to stock an easy job.
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I drove the car about 20 miles between yesterday and today. The engine seems to run a hair quieter on the Maxlife oil than it did on the cheap Supertech. No oil pressure light flickering either, so I'd say the sensor was definitely the issue. It seems to be leaking transmission fluid a bit faster than I'm comfortable with, so I'm going to need to investigate that.
 
Walmart had a Black Friday deal on tires, $47 each for Goodyear Reliants. That was too good of a deal to pass up. I ordered four of them online and picked them up yesterday. I'll get someone else to mount them. I had these same Goodyear Reliants on my Buick Lacrosse and I liked them just fine. Very quiet and rode smooth. Made in the USA too.
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Today I replaced some of the interior light bulbs. The shift indicator bulb was burnt out, as was the lighter surround and the ashtray. I only had two bulbs, still gotta get one for the ashtray, but I got the lighter and the shifter indicator working.
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I was glad to see while I had it apart that whoever installed the aftermarket stereo didn't cut up the wiring harness, they made an adapter harness. Should make reverting back to stock an easy job.
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I drove the car about 20 miles between yesterday and today. The engine seems to run a hair quieter on the Maxlife oil than it did on the cheap Supertech. No oil pressure light flickering either, so I'd say the sensor was definitely the issue. It seems to be leaking transmission fluid a bit faster than I'm comfortable with, so I'm going to need to investigate that.
that's an awesome update (just read both of the posts)! And finally someone who actually understands there ARE wiring harness adapters available for aftermarket head units!

and wow $47 per tire?! awesome is the only word I can think of! good job! and good news about the oil pressure switch.. I've said it before and I'll post it again, this car has been a huge blessing, not that much wrong other than some maintenance stuff and a sensor.. now you're onto light bulbs, that's it? lol.. that's really good! and ok there's a trans leak, bet it's just a gasket

talk about an awesome Thanksgiving for ya!
 
Got inspection and emissions stickers put on the car on Friday. It passed, no problem. Had the tires mounted up at the same time.
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I want to get an alignment soon before I start putting any heavy mileage on the new tires. The mechanic who inspected the car said the transmission leak looked to be coming from the cooler lines, but he wasn't 100% certain.
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I went to the local junkyard today and got a bunch of miscellaneous screws and hardware I needed and I also got a factory radio. The whole radio was sticky and gross, as was the rest of the donor car, but it cleaned up nicely.
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Luckily the junkyard car still had the radio code card in the glovebox, so I was able to unlock the radio once it was installed. I'm not worried about sharing the code, I don't think too many people are stealing 27 year-old factory AM/FM/cassette head units anymore.
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The radio seems to be fully functional, although I haven't tested the cassette player yet. I'm sure I have a cassette somewhere so I can test it eventually.
 
Got inspection and emissions stickers put on the car on Friday. It passed, no problem. Had the tires mounted up at the same time.
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I want to get an alignment soon before I start putting any heavy mileage on the new tires. The mechanic who inspected the car said the transmission leak looked to be coming from the cooler lines, but he wasn't 100% certain.
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I went to the local junkyard today and got a bunch of miscellaneous screws and hardware I needed and I also got a factory radio. The whole radio was sticky and gross, as was the rest of the donor car, but it cleaned up nicely.
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Luckily the junkyard car still had the radio code card in the glovebox, so I was able to unlock the radio once it was installed. I'm not worried about sharing the code, I don't think too many people are stealing 27 year-old factory AM/FM/cassette head units anymore.
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The radio seems to be fully functional, although I haven't tested the cassette player yet. I'm sure I have a cassette somewhere so I can test it eventually.
yup that's definitely the correct radio for that year.. see that 1110 on the lower right of the display? That first digit "1" means it was made for Honda by Matsushita (Panasonic)!.. if it started with a 2 it's Alpine.. just a little trivia for ya.

good to hear it might only be the trans cooler lines leaking, it could always be worse!

and about the radio, remember it might need a cassette cleaner (one where you use alcohol drops on the felt pads) to clean up the rubber pinch roller so it doesn't eat your tape.

but I gotta say, the full picture this is looking really good, almost like a time capsule from 97!

$50, but I have a connection so I don't have to pay full price. I think if I'd have paid full price it's $10 to mount, $10 to balance and $1 disposal per tire, plus tax.
those ARE good prices.. I know my place is $20 mount/balance per tire. They never charged me any disposal fee though, hmm..
 
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