Thanks, seems like it will flow out the fill hole with the engine turned off: https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/did-i-over-fill-my-ford-6r80-transmission.338482/
Bought a 2009 Expedition
- Thread starter zorobabel
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Sounds like a nice price in 2023 for a decent vehicle. I think running suv/truck in poor condition sell at similar prices.
Congrats on the purchase doesn't sound too bad especially in this market. A lot of people will knock on the 5.4 3 valve, but I will tell you it's very hit and miss. I have every reason to bash on it, I had a 2010 f150 that blew the motor at 106k. Well my brother has an 07 sitting at 190k+ with really not very good maintenance whatsoever. My point is, you just never know yours might be fine and no issues for a long while.
I think your plan is very good. I changed all the fluids out on mine. Used mag1 LV 4 transmission and transfer case, Valvoline synthetic for the rear diff. I also used the appropriate Lubegard product in each system of course that's personal preference.
Happy motoring and I hope it serves you well 🍻
I think your plan is very good. I changed all the fluids out on mine. Used mag1 LV 4 transmission and transfer case, Valvoline synthetic for the rear diff. I also used the appropriate Lubegard product in each system of course that's personal preference.
Happy motoring and I hope it serves you well 🍻
If you are a gear head AT ALL, this one is really cool to see some impressive carnage. It's not that long and you get to see the damage in the first few minutes
Secondly, for every one of these motors where people like to claim "I got 190k" or whatever I promise you if you dropped the pan you'd find pieces of timing chain guides or tensioner seals blown out, etc. Basically, you can't see what's going on inside and no one likes to admit that ignorance is bliss....but the large majority of these are just the walking wounded
REALLY COOL:
Secondly, for every one of these motors where people like to claim "I got 190k" or whatever I promise you if you dropped the pan you'd find pieces of timing chain guides or tensioner seals blown out, etc. Basically, you can't see what's going on inside and no one likes to admit that ignorance is bliss....but the large majority of these are just the walking wounded
REALLY COOL:
I've got a 07 with 260K in our family fleet without any of the "normal" 5.4 3V issues. My advice is to change the oil at no more than 5k intervals. 5w-30 is not a bad choice, either.
As far as the transmission goes, you need to check it hot, but I never had any spill out when opening it cold. My normal change procedure is to suction out the pan when cold and measure it to know how much to put back in. Then after a 20 mile drive, check it hot while idling in park. You'll want some welding gloves to protect yourself from the exhaust.
I have always used regular DexMerc in the transfer case.
The rear calls for synthetic 75w-140 plus LS additive, and the front calls for 75w-90. Mine gets 80w-90 in the front as I have a lot on hand.
As far as the transmission goes, you need to check it hot, but I never had any spill out when opening it cold. My normal change procedure is to suction out the pan when cold and measure it to know how much to put back in. Then after a 20 mile drive, check it hot while idling in park. You'll want some welding gloves to protect yourself from the exhaust.
I have always used regular DexMerc in the transfer case.
The rear calls for synthetic 75w-140 plus LS additive, and the front calls for 75w-90. Mine gets 80w-90 in the front as I have a lot on hand.
You're kidding me? 4.5k is a steal; here in that Carolina's, I bet that would fetch twice that.Bought it at an auction over the weekend.
XLT EL trim, 190k miles, former state vehicle, some rust up top near the remnants of the antennas, some rust underneath the paint on bonnet (did Ford paint these outside in the rain?), some panels misaligned on the right side. Including pic with the good side. Only front chairs present, need to buy some chairs for the second row. Interior behind front seats is kind of beat up, it was adapted for hauling stuff (plywood boxes instead of chairs, making a long flat platform). Was sold (when new) as equipped with 4x4 control trac, advance trac with RSC, 3.73 axle, HD trailer tow.
This is my first sea faring vehicle (only had smaller sedans until now), I guess it operates fine, one surprise is how slow it is to take off with low throttle input (maybe the torque converter is undersized for a 6k lb vehicle).
I could use some guidance on maintenance and fluids please.
Is Maxlife OK instead of Mercon LV (Mercon LV is kinda pricy right now)? That tiny transmission dipstick next to the exhaust is ridiculous.
What should I use for the transfer case?
For the diffs is GL-5 fine? View attachment 136036
The 5.4 has good torque characteristics. Enjoy your purchase.
Our '08 came with an SCT "power" tune. It seems noticeably more spunky than stock 3V 5.4s I've driven. I have no delusions that it's necessarily making more power but it seems to move it lower in the powerband-- maybe it's just a "Pedal Commander" effect, not sure.
I've always maintained that unless you have an "auto" t-case with clutches that might require some sort of friction additive (ala GM's AutoTrak etc), virtually any ATF will do. A basic t-case just needs *a* light hydraulic fluid.
FTM has a vid about MercV destroying t-cases, BUT it was in one of the AWD cute utes like an Escape or something. A chain-driven, driver selectable t-case is VERY VERY different
I've always maintained that unless you have an "auto" t-case with clutches that might require some sort of friction additive (ala GM's AutoTrak etc), virtually any ATF will do. A basic t-case just needs *a* light hydraulic fluid.
FTM has a vid about MercV destroying t-cases, BUT it was in one of the AWD cute utes like an Escape or something. A chain-driven, driver selectable t-case is VERY VERY different
I was thinking of using PP 10W-30 from the stash. As it won't be a daily driver (snow and bad roads is the planned use) 5k OCI seems right.
Kind of hard checking the transmission hot, unless I get access to a work bay. Gotta buy some tougher jack stands and a big bottle jack, tranny will cool down by the time I raise it. This truck barely fits in my garage. I intend to install a drain plug, but sucking it out has merit. Also planning to drop the engine oil pan at the next oil change, just to take a look.
I believe the rear diff is not limited slip, how can I check for sure?
I'll be sailing it later today on it's maiden voyage to Tahoe. Will have a better idea of it's power in the mountains.
@everyone - I might be a number of days late with replies. Big thanks for your posts so far!!!
Thanks!
It made it to Tahoe in a snowstorm, did way better uphill in 4A than a FWD Mazda CX-5 with cables. Stopping the beast on ice is a bit trickier than what I was used to. Also made it back
. It has enough power with the proper use of the gas pedal. Not much heat escapes from the engine bay to the windshield, I had the wipers collect snow and ice (never happened with my older cars).Lifted the rear and the wheels turn in different directions, so no LSD.
Is the front cross member OK as a central jacking point? (pictured)
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It's probably wise to proactively do a Full Timing Set, Phasers, Oil Pump, And Followers. I'd almost say Valve Springs as well but it really depends on the usage, A overloaded electrical contractor service body F250 IS getting Valve Springs!!!
Not to confuse a worn Follower "unkeepering" a Valve Spring Retainer with Valve Spring breakage caused by sustained high RPM.
I tried the Maxlife rated for LV in my 2009 F150 4x4 w/6 speed auto. Transmission HATED it. Had to do 2 flushes with Mercon LV to get it working like it did before.
The 5.4 takes very well to a tune. Ford did not allow full throttle opening until 4500RPM and shifts gears at 5000. Leaving a lot of power on the table. 5star makes a great 87 octane tune.
Do not use 5W-20 oil. The Cam tensioners leak oil and will starve the heads. The oil pump also leaks. There are examples of the 3V engine lasting 350K+, with higher viscosity oil. Use a 10W-30 synthetic as a minimum.
EDIT: The CV and other Ford state vehicles here do not use the 5W-20 oil. If your engine was run on 10-40 or 20-50 as they do here, it will be quite healthy. And will not need chains, phasers or rockers.
Thanks clinebarger!
Thanks! I think I will use Pennzoil LV in the transmission and transfer case.
Not sure if the truck would still pass smog with a tune. Outside of mpg, in my mind there would be less fuel dilution if WOT is avoided.
Are there better designed tensioners that would keep the gasket from popping? Since you mention synthetic as a minimum, do you run short OCIs?
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