Bottom mounted upward.

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When a filter is mounted bottom (threaded) end up, do you guys still consider bypass location and/or valve type? I don't see the point in looking for silicone ADBV when the threads are pointed upward. Bypass location (thread end vs. dome end) is still up for debate, but its up for debate for any position imo.
 
The ADBV is to prevent the upper engine oil galleys from draining backwards through the filter into the pan, causing the gallesy to have to refill every time the engine starts, which delays obtaining oil pressure until complete.

The filter bypass location is very debatable here, but personally I stopped using filters with "closed end" bypasses and only use filters with the bypass below the threads such as Motorcraft filters.
 
Wait - are you asking for if the opened end of the filter is pointed up, or down?

If you are asking for opened end up - majority of Ford's engines have the oil filter screw in from the bottom, with the opened end up. Yet they still have the bypass valve immediately behind the opening, and use a silicone ADBV. There has to be a reason why they insist on the more costly silicone ADBV vs. nitrile.

Here is a Motorcraft comparison chart that has a good illustration of oil flow through a filter that is oriented upwards towards the engine.

http://www.bullittarchive.com/5000/5003/Oil_Filter_Cut-Away_Comparison_Kit.pdf
 
Originally Posted By: Hyde244
Wait - are you asking for if the opened end of the filter is pointed up, or down?

If you are asking for opened end up - majority of Ford's engines have the oil filter screw in from the bottom, with the opened end up. Yet they still have the bypass valve immediately behind the opening, and use a silicone ADBV. There has to be a reason why they insist on the more costly silicone ADBV vs. nitrile.

Here is a Motorcraft comparison chart that has a good illustration of oil flow through a filter that is oriented upwards towards the engine.

http://www.bullittarchive.com/5000/5003/Oil_Filter_Cut-Away_Comparison_Kit.pdf


Threads pointed to the engine, dome pointed to the ground.
 
Originally Posted By: another Todd
The ADBV is to prevent the upper engine oil galleys from draining backwards through the filter into the pan, causing the gallesy to have to refill every time the engine starts, which delays obtaining oil pressure until complete.

The filter bypass location is very debatable here, but personally I stopped using filters with "closed end" bypasses and only use filters with the bypass below the threads such as Motorcraft filters.


This. Even with an upward pointed base the ADBV serves a purpose.
 
Originally Posted By: KCJeep
Originally Posted By: another Todd
The ADBV is to prevent the upper engine oil galleys from draining backwards through the filter into the pan, causing the gallesy to have to refill every time the engine starts, which delays obtaining oil pressure until complete.

The filter bypass location is very debatable here, but personally I stopped using filters with "closed end" bypasses and only use filters with the bypass below the threads such as Motorcraft filters.


This. Even with an upward pointed base the ADBV serves a purpose.


So you think silicone serves better than nitrile even for keeping oil in the block?
 
Yes. Some vehicles don't seem to care, others are rather sensitive to it, particularly when the weather is cold or if you're doing long OCI's.

I've never been able to notice any difference in any vehicle during the summer though.

My Jeep is pretty particular about filter ADBV's, but we've had several Chevy's that could care less no matter how cold it is.
 
The ADBV is a check-valve, and therefore it's function (in theory anyway) should not matter regarding orientation.

What might matter is filter location; if it were up high relative to the system, then the ADBV may not function well if at all, because gravity is the force that pulls oil down when not under pumping force. If the lube system were "tight" enough that oil being pulled down by gravity were offset by vacuum of tightly held oil seals, etc, then there might be some concern.

However, in real life, I have yet to see any evidence that there is any merit to this debate either way. Wear ranges and trends do not seem to be affected by the location of the filter, nor the design of the ADBV. How many engines can one personally attest to that failed specific to the location of the filter or it's ADBV? Makes for wonderful BITOG banter; has no practical affect either way.
 
Honda is another OEM which seems to prefer silicone ADBVs. And I think the oil filter in every one of its engines is mounted thread end up. As noted above, it still serves a purpose.
 
Thanks for all the responses. I definitely was under the impression that with thread mounted upward locations, a silicone ADBV wasn't AS important.
 
Originally Posted By: RamFan
Thanks for all the responses. I definitely was under the impression that with thread mounted upward locations, a silicone ADBV wasn't AS important.


I think the silicone ADBV application is more geared towards how cold of a climate you're in and how long the OCI will be. Silicone does better in those conditions than the nitrile material, and will ensure more reliability and as a result better sealing.
 
Originally Posted By: KCJeep


My Jeep is pretty particular about filter ADBV's, but we've had several Chevy's that could care less no matter how cold it is.


Many Chevy's, maybe all (not sure) have the ADBV built into the engine block and do not use a filter with a ADBV.
 
Originally Posted By: another Todd
Originally Posted By: KCJeep


My Jeep is pretty particular about filter ADBV's, but we've had several Chevy's that could care less no matter how cold it is.


Many Chevy's, maybe all (not sure) have the ADBV built into the engine block and do not use a filter with a ADBV.


Chevy has never had an ADBV built into the block. However they (as well as most GM engines) do have the bypass valve built into the block.
 
Originally Posted By: jegs
Originally Posted By: another Todd
Originally Posted By: KCJeep


My Jeep is pretty particular about filter ADBV's, but we've had several Chevy's that could care less no matter how cold it is.


Many Chevy's, maybe all (not sure) have the ADBV built into the engine block and do not use a filter with a ADBV.


Chevy has never had an ADBV built into the block. However they (as well as most GM engines) do have the bypass valve built into the block.


Yep ... it's the bypass valve, not the ADBV in the block on GM engines.
 
I am in the same position as RamFan. I have an 07 GC SXT with the 3.8L v6. The filter is mounted perfectly vertical with the thread end pointed north. I current use the Napa Gold 1515 that has the thread end bypass along with a silicone adbv. What I am contemplating is switching to the Napa Platinum 41515, that has a dome end bypass, will that have any negative effects? I'm sold on the synthetic material as opposed to cellulose for our cold winters and just in general. Your thoughts are appreciated.
 
I'd use a threaded end bypass if the threaded end was up on a vertical filter. I'd use a dome end bypass if the dome end was up on a vertical filter. I'd use either a threaded end or a dome end bypass of the filter was horizontal.
 
Originally Posted By: edwardh1
which place do japanese denso filters have the valve.
And where is the crossover table for motorcraft for an 04 toyota highlander v6>


Use the "Interchange Guide" tab and put in your Toyota filter part number (or other brand filter used on your vehicle) to see if they show a Motorcraft cross-reference.

http://www.fordparts.com/landing/motorcraft.aspx
 
Originally Posted By: AKA
I am in the same position as RamFan. I have an 07 GC SXT with the 3.8L v6. The filter is mounted perfectly vertical with the thread end pointed north. I current use the Napa Gold 1515 that has the thread end bypass along with a silicone adbv. What I am contemplating is switching to the Napa Platinum 41515, that has a dome end bypass, will that have any negative effects?


It shouldn't have any effect, no. Chrysler and Ford specify thread-end bypass valves. Few others do; other OEMs prefer dome-end bypass valves. It's six one way, half a dozen the other way. If you want to have a filter in there that's as close as possible to the Mopar filter, use one with a thread-end bypass.

I used to own a 2007 T&C with the 3.8L. I mostly used the Mopar MO-090 filter (manufactured by Purolator for Mopar, with the thread-end bypass), but I also used other filters with a dome-end bypass. I'm sure that data exists that supports both bypass valve locations.
 
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