BMW Oil Temperature Question

[Marcozi]

I took him out yesterday for a nice run on the highway. The oil temp gauge seems to read about 225*F or so when the engine is fully warmed up.

 

[bonjo]

I had a vw gold with an oil temp gauge some way back.
the temp ran between 82 (when I switched to full synthetic) and 94 deg C. The higher values was after long high speed drive (100mph+) when the car had stopped or in traffic. Soon climbing down after the coolant fan had kicked in.

 

[TurboZedd-R]

.
No matter if it's an Audi, BMW, Mercedes, Mini, Porsche or VW.
I typically see 205 - 220°F during winter and 220 - 230°F during
summer for both coolant and oil.
88°C/190°C?
Common for shorter trips, but quite odd for longer distances.
88°C lead to shorter trips, maybe for 10 min for the drive will
result in higher water and fuel contamination to your motor
oil than it will able to lose during this too short period of time.
.

An AMG or a 911 are going to run much cooler. My M139 Cla 45 would see 169F after 45 minutes, including highway; This includes ambient from 40F-90F. Have seen 992s run around 180F on the street.

 

[MCompact]

The gauge shows a steady 210°F until it's grossly higher. It's for you our peace of mind.

On my Mini operating oil temperature, once warned up, fluctuates between 100°C and 108°C but can reach over 118°C when I drive the car hard. In Sport Mode the oil temperature drops by at least 10°C mostly because cooling increases.

I hate buffered gauges. The oil temperature displays in my C43 and Jeep fluctuate depending on ambient temperature and driving conditions.

 

[vavavroom]

I hate buffered gauges.

Barely better than an idiot light.

The oil temperature displays in my C43 and Jeep fluctuate depending on ambient temperature and driving conditions.

The readout on the Mini is not buffered but it's an aftermarket gauge that pugs into the OBD port and can display all sorts of data. . The question is where the data originates. The date may be derived via an algorithm rather than from a sensor.

 

[Jetronic]

Barely better than an idiot light.

The readout on the Mini is not buffered but it's an aftermarket gauge that pugs into the OBD port and can display all sorts of data. . The question is where the data originates. The date may be derived via an algorithm rather than from a sensor.

If there's an oil temp sensor, there's an oil temp sensor OE part number to be found.

 

[Jimmy_Russells]

Barely better than an idiot light.

The readout on the Mini is not buffered but it's an aftermarket gauge that pugs into the OBD port and can display all sorts of data. . The question is where the data originates. The date may be derived via an algorithm rather than from a sensor.

Most likely it’s built into the oil level sensor, which I imagine all Minis have except maybe the very early (new era) ones.

 

[vavavroom]

If there's an oil temp sensor, there's an oil temp sensor OE part number to be found.

Nobody knows! I only know there's a signal on the bus. On Gen I cars the oil temperature was calculated by the ECM. It may be the same on the Gen II cars.

 

[Jetronic]

Nobody knows! I only know there's a signal on the bus. On Gen I cars the oil temperature was calculated by the ECM. It may be the same on the Gen II cars.

It's extremely common, yes.

 

[vavavroom]

It's extremely common, yes.

I am painfully aware. I strongly suspect the oil temp is mostly derived from coolant temperature and some other data like engine load. The displayed numbers are reasonable close enough to the sump temperature.

 

[vavavroom]

Most likely it’s built into the oil level sensor, which I imagine all Minis have except maybe the very early (new era) ones.

There is no oil level sensor other than an "oil low" sensor that triggers the idiot light. There's a dipstick, at least.

 

[930.engineering]

.
No R55/R56/R57/R58/R59 Mini (Gen 2, N12 - N18 engines) came with an oil temp sensor from factory (and no oil level sensor). There's just a coolant temp sensor. So yes of course, the oil temp (displayed via hidden/secret menu or OBD derived aftermarket gear) is calculated from coolant temp, probably engine load, ambient temp and speed.
The lack of an oil sensor is the bigger issue to most owners by far. In the end it's a French engine but I still don't get why BMW accepted this garbage.
.

 

[Nessism1]

On my N52 powered car I had what I thought was a better UOA after avoiding short trips (mostly by going the long way to my destination).

I'm not overly worked up on this, just thought I'd ask.

This makes no sense to me. If you drive, let's say, 6 miles to work and shut down. There will be X amount of wear. Driving a longer distance, won't reduce wear, it will increase it to X + Y.

On my daily driver Civic, driven short trips almost exclusively, I've moved to 6 month oil changes. There is nothing we can do to reduce wear during cold operation, since all cars must go through the warm-up process. Or, maybe a block heater?

 

[edyvw]

This makes no sense to me. If you drive, let's say, 6 miles to work and shut down. There will be X amount of wear. Driving a longer distance, won't reduce wear, it will increase it to X + Y.

On my daily driver Civic, driven short trips almost exclusively, I've moved to 6 month oil changes. There is nothing we can do to reduce wear during cold operation, since all cars must go through the warm-up process. Or, maybe a block heater?

Of course it makes sense.
Shorter trips are harder on oil. Short trips means more start ups (when wear happens). In 6mls in winter, N52 will not reach operating oil temperature, which means oil will not properly get rid of moisture, gas etc.
I have a food for thought for you. My wear in winter in N52 in 5k OCI was same as in summer. But summer one included 2 track days including sessions as long as 1 1/2hrs without pit stop, at 102f ambient temperature and 5,000ft altitude

 

[Nessism1]

Of course it makes sense.
Shorter trips are harder on oil. Short trips means more start ups (when wear happens). In 6mls in winter, N52 will not reach operating oil temperature, which means oil will not properly get rid of moisture, gas etc.
I have a food for thought for you. My wear in winter in N52 in 5k OCI was same as in summer. But summer one included 2 track days including sessions as long as 1 1/2hrs without pit stop, at 102f ambient temperature and 5,000ft altitude

The issue is wear during warm up. Driving past warm up doesn't put metal back on the worn parts. Mind you, short trips is hard on oil, so if you continue to drive with diminished oil, that is not good. Thus the recommendation to change your oil often if you short trip.

 

[Bill7]

On my 3 Honda Odyssey's with Honda thermostats, my Scan Gauge II shows coolant temperature of 186 Farenheit while cruising at highway speeds.

 

[edyvw]

The issue is wear during warm up. Driving past warm up doesn't put metal back on the worn parts. Mind you, short trips is hard on oil, so if you continue to drive with diminished oil, that is not good. Thus the recommendation to change your oil often if you short trip.

Wear happens during cold starts and warm up.
Lots of starts, more wear. Think of airplanes' pressurization and depressurization. Airplanes that do a lot of short trips, have more fatigue.
So, doing 5k in city, short trips and compare to long distance driving, are two different things. Oil will be serviceable if you do 5-7.5k OCI in both cases.

 

[Nessism1]

Wear happens during cold starts and warm up.
Lots of starts, more wear. Think of airplanes' pressurization and depressurization. Airplanes that do a lot of short trips, have more fatigue.
So, doing 5k in city, short trips and compare to long distance driving, are two different things. Oil will be serviceable if you do 5-7.5k OCI in both cases.

Why are you arguing. I know that wear can happen when cold. There is nothing we can do to stop it.

People drive through the warm up. Wear happens. That's life. Driving longer doesn't reverse the wear.

 

[edyvw]

Why are you arguing. I know that wear can happen when cold. There is nothing we can do to stop it.

People drive through the warm up. Wear happens. That's life. Driving longer doesn't reverse the wear.

Because:

"This makes no sense to me. If you drive, let's say, 6 miles to work and shut down. There will be X amount of wear. Driving a longer distance, won't reduce wear, it will increase it to X + Y."

So, obviously, you don't.

 

[Nessism1]

Because:


So, obviously, you don't.

I don't what?