blown hg; options

[tomcat27]

blown head gasket on 2001 Camry (only 112k miles) due to overheating from collision and radiator damage. (apparently the temperature gauge is just a decoration and does not need to be watched) do I: 1) just sand the head on a flat surface 2) mill at machine shop 3) mill @ machine shop, replace seals, check valves 4) re-man'd head long-term keeper.

 

[RooflessVW]

Pop a used low-mile engine in it.

 

[mk378]

If it was driven until it would go no more, the whole engine is toast.

 

[tomcat27]

it was driven 5 miles. seems to run fine; except for the hg. I have no idea how hot it got; I got a phone call when steam was noticed from the hood I put a radiator and condenser in it and straightened the radiator support

 

[CT8]

At work we have repaired many aluminum head engines that over heated to the point of the valve seats falling out . You need to have a machine shop check and straighten the head if it needs to be straightened. Also measure the block with a straight edge to make sure it is flat.

 

[Chris142]

Originally Posted By: tomcat27

it was driven 5 miles. seems to run fine; except for the hg. I have no idea how hot it got; I got a phone call when steam was noticed from the hood I put a radiator and condenser in it and straightened the radiator support

it got hot enough to crush the head gasket! Its likely that the low tension piston rings are junk now too.

 

[tomcat27]

Originally Posted By: Chris142

Its likely that the low tension piston rings are junk now too.

I would rather do things correctly - once. hmm. interesting on the rings. so, dis-assemble the engine or put in a reman engine. I want the car to last through 3 kids. I know... silly me. the first one is doing his best to kill it.

 

[tomcat27]

I will run a compression test later; and send the head to the shop; or consider a rebuild. probably do that myself. unless someone can recommend a Jasper..... (sorry; twisted humor on my part)

 

[OneEyeJack]

If you're going to do the work, give the head to a machine shop. Let them redo everything as needed. Then just clean everything up and put it all back together. If you're new at this do a lot of research. YouTube is your friend and books too. Be clean and organized. Take lots of pictures as you go and keep all the parts separate somewhere in groups. Find a manual that gives you step by step instructions. Don't hurry. Be clean. And did I suggest, take lots of pictures. If someone helps be careful that they don't do things you don't see or understand. Take pictures. Make your help keep bits and pieces sorted and in some kind of understandable order. Use new engine oil and filter. Change them a couple of times in the first thousand miles. Clean out the cooling system. Replace the water pump and thermostat. Use new coolant and distilled water. Find out what coolant to use. It makes a difference. Have fun.

 

[nthach]

If you want to do the job right, pull the head and send that into a machine shop for any correction that needs to be done, might be a good time for a valve job as well. Check the block with a straight edge and a feeler gauge for warping. I doubt Toyota switched over to low-tension rings on a 5S-FE. Use OEM or Fel-Pro gaskets and flush out the cooling system. I'd use Toyota Red or Zerex Asian formula from now on. You can also get a used "30K" motor from Japan, but you're going to roll the dice. The good news with a used engine is that it's in a state for you to teardown and replace what needs to be replaced.

 

[oilmutt]

Year, make, model, engine,millage???????????.

 

[tomcat27]

2001 Toyota Camry. 112,000 miles. (in the original post) 2.2l I have the genuine Toyota Factory service manual. I've used Zerex red coolant. about 1k ago I replaced the timing belt and water pump. I'm no stranger to "bagging and tagging" parts; and taking photos. I used to have a perfect memory. not so much anymore.

 

[PeterPolyol]

You say head, singular so I assume 2.2? Doesn't take much movement to break a 2.2 Camry head gasket seal- have dealt with a few, including my own. I seriously doubt the rest of the engine is toast though. The rings are 1.2mm thick (as opposed to the old school 1.5mm rings) so it's possible? they're compromised, of course you'd have to test compression to know for sure I'd gamble on there being no more damage than just the HG. 5 miles is nothing, so doubts are there about loose valve guides also, but that all needs to be verified. 112K miles isn't so much at all. For reference, some engines are designed to travel quite a few more miles than that with no coolant- without sustaining excessive damage. There are even ECU programs that shut some cylinders down for "air cooling" effects. But as I said, it doesn't take much to pop a Toyota S-engine head gasket- by far the weakest point of an otherwise tough engine that should still be serviceable. Best of luck!

 

[Lyman]

Look up JDM engines. IMHO I think that would be a good option for you

 

[SatinSilver]

Do you know where in the Midwest you're located?

 

[Charlie2015]

I would recommend a low mileage engine from Japan.

 

[tomcat27]

Originally Posted By: SatinSilver

Do you know where in the Midwest you're located?

north of chicago

 

[SatinSilver]

Originally Posted By: tomcat27

Originally Posted By: SatinSilver

Do you know where in the Midwest you're located?

north of chicago

Here's a bunch of copart listings for 00-01 Camrys that may help. The engines on CL seem way too high imo. Copart - Chicago North

 

[PandaBear]

Originally Posted By: tomcat27

do I: 1) just sand the head on a flat surface 2) mill at machine shop 3) mill @ machine shop, replace seals, check valves 4) re-man'd head .

1. No 2. Yes 3. I assume you means valve stem seal and valve conditions? Yes, might as well. 4. Your head may be good enough, unless they found issues on your own head (cracks, casting problem, etc). I did something similar 2-3 years ago on a Honda 4 cylinder, mechanic charges about $1500-2000 out the door (including machine shop, new belts, water pump, coolant, oil change, etc).

 

[FlyNavyP3]

I worked in a machine shop where we saw hundreds of heads that had been overheated so badly that the valve seats and guides lost their press fit due to the aluminum around them expanding and a similar number that were so warped that they had to be straightened before milling. All of those heads survived with straightening or milling or both and a valve job with new seals. All went back to the repair facilities and went back on the customers car, most of those shops also bought all of their parts from us and almost never purchased rings and bearings so that leads me to believe most just got a valve job and mill and sent down the road. If you wanted to really go the extra mile you could drop the oil pan and pull out all 4 pistons while it's apart and put new rings and rod bearings in. I probably wouldn't bother since it sounds like it wasn't overheated very badly. Personally I'd do a valve job, mill it and slam it back together.