Blowing air in the outlet hole?

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speedy341

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Is it possible to blow air (using your mouth) in the outlet hole of a new filter to test the effectiveness anti-drainback valve?


**I just reread that and realized it sounds perverse, no jokes please.
 
Speedy, I do this all the time. I call it my suck/blow test.

Amazingly there are many filters that fail this simple action. Even though they have a rubber seal laying over the inlet holes many will still leak air. I even go back and put a little oil on the seal and see if that helps.

It may be rudimentary but I have eliminated several brands from my purchasing choices when they repeatedly fail this silly test. The cut-off criteria has to start someplace.
 
I agree! If it leaks back with air, it will leak back with oil. If I do manage to get out of the store with it, I take it back and find one that the ADBV works properly.
 
So who else may have checked the filter that way and put it back? I seriously doubt it is a meaningful test. The ADBV needs to seal hot oil. The heat and any oil the rubber has absorbed will soften it, making it seal better. Even your silicone rubbers will soften and swell a little from the oil, not as much as the nitrile, but some. Also more air will pass thorough a gap then the much thicker oil.
 
quote:
Is it possible to blow air (using your mouth) in the outlet hole of a new filter to test the effectiveness anti-drainback valve?
Click to expand...
I would say......not exactly. Since these valves are not made to control air, I doubt those test are telling you exactly what would happen with oil.

Would you test the flow rate of the filter with air??


I've seen some people do a type of "leak-down" test. They fill the filter with oil and screw a bolt into the face of the filter where the threads are (thus, plugging up the hole). Then they wait.........and see...
smile.gif
 
Whew, I'm not the only one...

I have a 1974 Triumph TR6 (41,000mi) w/ the Aeroquip/Mocal spin on fliter coversion that, with an ADV equipped filter, should shorten pump up time. Certain Triumph engines are known for their "death rattle" when started and before oil presure builds. To minimize this I crank w/o choke until I get presure then feed in choke to start.

I threw out the Fram that the seller threw in w/ the kit and used an M1 filter (M1 204 if I remember) and it still took what I though was too long to register oil pressure while cranking; ~10 sec vs. 15+ for the original cartridge.

I tried the "blow" test (Wife thought I went over the edge) and it would not hold air. Unsatisfied I located the appropriate Mann & Hummel filter, repeated the "blow" test and it held, completely. I changed the oil (M1 MX4T 10W-40 syn) and cranked the engine w/o choke and got pressure at 5-7 seconds, repeatedly. I bought a case of the Mann's.

Anecdotal and certainly unscientific but....

Thoughts anyone?

Regards, W&w
 
Wow! So I'm not that weird I guess. Couple years ago I "detected" a leaky ADBV in a Wix just by blowing into the outlet hole. Today I got a K&N oil filter, did "the blow test" and the filter is going back to the store tomorrow. ADBV is in the always-open position and there is no resistance to the air in either direction. If I didn't blow I would never notice that....until a cold start on a frosty morning.
 
quote:
Originally posted by FowVay:
Speedy, I do this all the time. I call it my suck/blow test.

Amazingly there are many filters that fail this simple action. Even though they have a rubber seal laying over the inlet holes many will still leak air. I even go back and put a little oil on the seal and see if that helps.

It may be rudimentary but I have eliminated several brands from my purchasing choices when they repeatedly fail this silly test. The cut-off criteria has to start someplace.
Click to expand...
What are your findings?

Any recommendations?

I just bought 12 OEM Toyota filters and they suck/blow (pun intended) at this test. I really wish I would've found this site before that purchase.
pat.gif
 
I am NOT convinced that the physical configuration of some motor oil filter baseplates allows an adequate lip-to-discharge-port seal. In short, the impromptu in-the-store blow-suck test may really just suck... Now, with a suitably sized short length of pipe of the proper thread pitch, it might be a different matter. But, y'all just go ahead and suck filter in Wally*World's or K-mart's automotive section if it turns ya' on. Just don't be surprised if one day ya' turn around and see the department manager directly behind ya' staring at ya' like ya' just got free o' your "jacket" at the county "facility".
 
The ADBV needs to be wet with oil to work. This is no different than wetting the oil gasket on the filter prior to installation. So, fill that can up with oil(the more toxic the better), and suck/blow till you drop.

How much pressure does a pint of oil put on that ADBV? how much pressure are you blowing?
 
quote:
Originally posted by unDummy:
The ADBV needs to be wet with oil to work. This is no different than wetting the oil gasket on the filter prior to installation. So, fill that can up with oil(the more toxic the better), and suck/blow till you drop.

How much pressure does a pint of oil put on that ADBV? how much pressure are you blowing?
Click to expand...
All I can say about this is that German filters (Mann, Mahle, etc.) always have tight ADBVs that don't allow any air flow in the "wrong direction" but very often when I buy some aftermarket filter, it fails the blow test. May be blowing the air through the filter is stupid but I will continue to buy only the filters that have good, tight one-way valve.
 
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