I'm new to BITOG, it's like group therapy. Getting ready for midwest winter in 01 Civic with 40k. Thinking about blending Exxon Super Flow 5w20, Mobile 5000 and M1 5w30. Would the heavier M1 be a problem for the 5w20 rated car? There is some 0w20 M1 available at a distributor, should I get?
Blending for winter in a Civic
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I don't know where you are in the Midwest, BUT, if you are anywhere near St. Charles MO, the WalMart off of hwy 70 has about 15 quarts of Mobil 1 0-20 which would do you very well.. The Superflo 5-20 will be fine, and if you blend 1 quart of M1 (or better yet Redline) you'll be even better..
What is the main advantage of a synthetic oil? Don't blend ,use any 0w20, 5w20 or a 0w30 or a 5w30.
exxon and mobile 5000 are the same oils...
just stick with a 5w20 and you'll be fine
just stick with a 5w20 and you'll be fine
+1 to all that suggestions. Simply stick with 0W20 or 5W20 and you'll be home-free.
No need to spend the extra effort to "blend" your brew.
No need to spend the extra effort to "blend" your brew.
Yes, I'd snap-up that M1 0W-20 and use that. It should be perfect for a Midwest winter.
Thanks for all the responses, the 0w20 is synthetic and wondered if it gave enough of advatage over dino for the cost. K **** has dino Kastrol on sale this week 5 for $7.00, should I fill the storehouse?
The 0w20 I found is 4.50 per quart, not sure it's worth it now.????
If you use a quality oil of the weight shown on the oil fill cap (5w-20 or 5w30), you'll be fine.
No need to be blending and no real need for synthetic either.
We have five or six Honda vehicles in the family at any given time and they all get whatever viscosity oil is recommended by the Honda owner's manual for that vehicle. No synthetics.
No problems either with OCIs running from 5,000 to 7,500 miles depending on each driver's preference. Several vehicles have high mileage (90,000+) on them.
Thanks.
I use the Mobil 1 0W-20, it seems to be a great oil for Hondas!
I've only seen good UOA's posted for this oil and very favorable comments
If I found more 0W-20 locally I'd stock up.
I run it year round in our 2004 Honda Element at 7000 mile intervals, with Purolator Pure One oil filters.
We are at 30K now, and I think I'll add 4 oz of Valvoline Synthetic Oil Treatment and 4 oz of Lube control LC20 to the oil.
And 1oz Lube Control FP60 to the gas tank per every 5 gallons of gas.
Then I may go out to 8,000 mile intervals.
I've been slow to adopt the idea of 'blending' oils or trying to improve the chemistry of a good oil, but the results I've seen using these additional additives has started to change my opinion about some additives.
If I was going to blend oils , I think I'd use either Motorcraft, Trop Arctic, Havoline, or Mobie 7500 5W-20 and mix 3 quarts of one of these oils to 1 quart of Redline 5W-20.
If I don't find more Mobil 1 0W-20, then I'll switch to Redline 5W-20 at 8K OCI, or look at the new Mobil 1 5W-20 ot the Pennzoil Platinum 5W-20 at 7K intervals.
If I was on a budget or used a shorter oil change interval, then I'd look at any of the less expensive 5W-20 oils [like Motorcraft] that meet both the Ford and Honda tests for 5W-20.
These are synthetic blends [ probably using Group III ] and depending on driving conditionds, I'd run these for 4000 to 5000 mile intervals and not worry.
I'm a bit cautious, and I don't worry about spending a little extra on maintenance.
I'm sure I could safely run 10K OCI's with full synthetics, and 7K OCI's with less expensive 5W-20 oil.
[ August 30, 2005, 10:32 AM: Message edited by: Thatwouldbegreat ]
I've only seen good UOA's posted for this oil and very favorable comments
If I found more 0W-20 locally I'd stock up.
I run it year round in our 2004 Honda Element at 7000 mile intervals, with Purolator Pure One oil filters.
We are at 30K now, and I think I'll add 4 oz of Valvoline Synthetic Oil Treatment and 4 oz of Lube control LC20 to the oil.
And 1oz Lube Control FP60 to the gas tank per every 5 gallons of gas.
Then I may go out to 8,000 mile intervals.
I've been slow to adopt the idea of 'blending' oils or trying to improve the chemistry of a good oil, but the results I've seen using these additional additives has started to change my opinion about some additives.
If I was going to blend oils , I think I'd use either Motorcraft, Trop Arctic, Havoline, or Mobie 7500 5W-20 and mix 3 quarts of one of these oils to 1 quart of Redline 5W-20.
If I don't find more Mobil 1 0W-20, then I'll switch to Redline 5W-20 at 8K OCI, or look at the new Mobil 1 5W-20 ot the Pennzoil Platinum 5W-20 at 7K intervals.
If I was on a budget or used a shorter oil change interval, then I'd look at any of the less expensive 5W-20 oils [like Motorcraft] that meet both the Ford and Honda tests for 5W-20.
These are synthetic blends [ probably using Group III ] and depending on driving conditionds, I'd run these for 4000 to 5000 mile intervals and not worry.
I'm a bit cautious, and I don't worry about spending a little extra on maintenance.
I'm sure I could safely run 10K OCI's with full synthetics, and 7K OCI's with less expensive 5W-20 oil.
[ August 30, 2005, 10:32 AM: Message edited by: Thatwouldbegreat ]
Any of the SL/SM rated dino 5w20s should be fine if your trying optimize your cost benefit ratio. Follow the severe service schedule in the owner's manual for the coldest months. If you like the idea of a synthetic blend, buy a synthetic blend. That way you're assured of avoiding any potential unexpected results at the lowest temperatures.
Hey, this is fun. I'm told by the local parts store teen's that you shouldn't switch dino to synthetic and back because "the seals get used to synthetic and react when they don't have it", like a junky off his junk. Am I going to screw up rear seal by switching? I read posts of those that do with no problem.
At approx. what winter temperature does the benefit of using 0w20 or 5w20 Mobil 1 over dino 5w20 become apparent? I know that synthetics are better in cold temperatures but is there any difference (in cold start wear) using 5w20 dino vs. synthetics in NY winters where 0* would be about the coldest temp. and teens would be the norm. I ask this because I rarely exceed 4 or 5K OCI and I think the dinos are fine for this so am I wasting money buying Mobil 1.
Great question, is it really worth it? Also, is it harmful??? Anybody?
If you see a lot of sub-zero temperatures, this is where the full synthetics have an advantage due to their naturally high VI and low pour points. It'll take some pour point depressants in order to get dinos to perform to low temperature specifications (the grade number before the W), to include some of the syn blends that use Group III base stocks.
Nothing wrong with pour point depressants, however, they may deplete with time/use, therefore you want fresh oil in the crankcase for the coldest months and you don't want to run them as long as you might during warmer weather.
One could write several pages on this topic, but I'll spare you and give you the Cliff Notes version.
Will they harm your seals? Very, very unlikely.
Will some older engines experience leak issues? Possibly, but usually rare. IMHO, if a seal begins to leak with the use of synthetics, it was already deficient in some manner.
Looks like the Mobil 7500 5W-20 performs favorably compared to Mobil 1 5W-20
I couldn't find properties for Mobil 1 0W-20, but I suspect pour point is 6 degrees C lower than the M1 5W-20.
------------------------
Typical Properties
Mobil 1 5W-20
SAE Grade 5W-20
Viscosity, ASTM D 445
cSt @ 40º C 48.3
cSt @ 100º C 8.8
Viscosity Index, ASTM D 2270 163
Sulfated Ash, wt%, ASTM D 874 1.0
HTHS Viscosity, mPa·s @ 150ºC ASTM D 4683 2.62
Pour Point, ºC, ASTM D 97 -47
Flash Point, ºC, ASTM D 92 228
Density @15º C kg/l, ASTM D 4052 0.80
===========================
Typical Properties
Mobil Clean 7500
5W-20
API Service Classification SM/CF
Gravity, API 32.7
Specific Gravity 0.862
Pour Point, °C (°F) -42 (-44)
Flash Point, °C (°F), ASTM D 92 200 (392)
Viscosity
cSt at 40°C 50.0
cSt at 100°C 8.90
CCS, cP 5190 @ -30°C
MRV, cP 12,400 @ -35°C
Viscosity Index 159
Energy Conserving Yes
I couldn't find properties for Mobil 1 0W-20, but I suspect pour point is 6 degrees C lower than the M1 5W-20.
------------------------
Typical Properties
Mobil 1 5W-20
SAE Grade 5W-20
Viscosity, ASTM D 445
cSt @ 40º C 48.3
cSt @ 100º C 8.8
Viscosity Index, ASTM D 2270 163
Sulfated Ash, wt%, ASTM D 874 1.0
HTHS Viscosity, mPa·s @ 150ºC ASTM D 4683 2.62
Pour Point, ºC, ASTM D 97 -47
Flash Point, ºC, ASTM D 92 228
Density @15º C kg/l, ASTM D 4052 0.80
===========================
Typical Properties
Mobil Clean 7500
5W-20
API Service Classification SM/CF
Gravity, API 32.7
Specific Gravity 0.862
Pour Point, °C (°F) -42 (-44)
Flash Point, °C (°F), ASTM D 92 200 (392)
Viscosity
cSt at 40°C 50.0
cSt at 100°C 8.90
CCS, cP 5190 @ -30°C
MRV, cP 12,400 @ -35°C
Viscosity Index 159
Energy Conserving Yes
Typical Properties
Mobil 1 0W-20
SAE Grade 0W-20
Viscosity, ASTM D 445
cSt @ 40º C 43
cSt @ 100º C 8.4
Viscosity Index, ASTM D 2270 165
Sulfated Ash, wt%, ASTM D 874 1.28
HTHS Viscosity, mPa·s @ 150º C, ASTM D 4683 2.61
Pour Point, ºC, ASTM D 97 -57
Flash Point, ºC, ASTM D 92 232
Density @15º C kg/l, ASTM D 4052 0.855
Originally posted by Thatwouldbegreat:
[QB] Looks like the Mobil 7500 5W-20 performs favorably compared to Mobil 1 5W-20
I notice that (my local) Walmart has raised the price on Mobil 7500 from 2.18 to 2.43. The other problem is that they never seem to stock more than one weight at a time. (A few months ago they had 12 qts. of 5w20 but I resisted buying it because I've gone 'cold turkey' on 'stocking' oil.
This is the same reason I didn't buy any Trop-Artic when a new Dollartree opened in my area last Spring (they had a load of it and are now out of stock with no more coming in)----Back on topic---I haven't seen Mobil 7500 5w20 in Walmart since early June. On a positive note I noticed that both Prestone EL and ST EL antifreeze had dropped back down in price to where it was over a year ago-$7.68? and 5.84 a gallon for the full strenght versions.It seems to me that both Walmart and Home Depot are going downhill. Both stores seem to be out of stock on many items. They also have gone heavily into SELF CHECKOUT
(presumeably to avoid paying human cashiers). If I owned either stock I would be selling about now.
---Sorry for the rant--maybe I had too much coffee this morning.
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