Drive anything in the winter here and it doesn't take long to reach beater status. I buy my cars with that in mind--just a tool for a job, an expendable one at that. At 25-30k/yr, after 10 years, no one is going to want it after I'm done with it, regardless of how well I took care of it.
BITOG beater
- Thread starter andrew_j
- Start date
Woolwax or Fluid Film may help to keep it beating longer
That's no beater...
4WD
$50 site donor 2025
Beater SL
GON
$150 Site Donor 2025
Wife has a 2014 RDX with 100k miles. Recently I looked into buying her a new 2025 RDX, Cross, or HRV. After looking at a lot of factors, including reliability, decided other than navigation, could not justify a 2025 replacement.
Yesterday I ordered the RDX a new driver side mirror ($400 on ebay). Soon I will order new OEM headlights, and a driver side bottom seat cover and driver side bottom cushion.
Yes- a 2013/2014 RDX is worth making really nice. We are the second owners of the 2014 RDX (California car prior), and the RDX has been mechanically flawless.
The bump you hear is in front struts. The struts are very easy to replace. The issue is the OEM struts may be on backorder.
Here are the headlamp part numbers:
Acura 33101-TX4-A01 Right Headlight Unit
2013-2015 Acura RDX 33101TX4A01
Acura 33151-TX4-A01 Left Headlight Unit
2013-2015 Acura RDX 33151TX4A01
Yesterday I ordered the RDX a new driver side mirror ($400 on ebay). Soon I will order new OEM headlights, and a driver side bottom seat cover and driver side bottom cushion.
Yes- a 2013/2014 RDX is worth making really nice. We are the second owners of the 2014 RDX (California car prior), and the RDX has been mechanically flawless.
The bump you hear is in front struts. The struts are very easy to replace. The issue is the OEM struts may be on backorder.
Here are the headlamp part numbers:
Acura 33101-TX4-A01 Right Headlight Unit
2013-2015 Acura RDX 33101TX4A01
Acura 33151-TX4-A01 Left Headlight Unit
2013-2015 Acura RDX 33151TX4A01
You're going to need an alternator soon. If the spool valve leaks enough to wet the belt, the alternator is already one foot out the door on these.
Also, the torque converter shudder tends to be horrendous on the 6AT if the fluid is not changed extremely frequently. Recommend a single drain and refill every 3rd oil change and the flash if not already performed.
I worked for a hotel near a snooty college and waaay to many parents (not all but still) insisted on buying their college freshmen kid a brand new vehicle. One bought their daughter a brand new VW Tiguan because "She needs a reliable car with a warranty ". My friend worked security at DU which is an expensive private college. One Jordanian kid kept parking his Maserati on the front lawn. It was towed numerous times. He told my friend "Fine keep it I'll just buy another one."It’s pretty amazing that relatively speaking, what’s considered a beater today, is actually often a really nice car 30 years ago. People don’t really get cars where subframes and drivetrains fall out, or duct tape is used to cover up perforation. I can’t tell you how many 16 year olds are given used cars as first cars, and they’re nicer than any one of our 3 cars!
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When I was in college a classmate said go get lunch here’s my atm card. Being 18, $17k was a lot to me ( his balance on the receipt). That’s $51k today. Today it’s not a lot to have in the bank, but a fair amount. Arguably $51k buys less in general now, despite being converted using cpi
Edit illustration Chuck steak was $0.69/lb, and today $6.49. CPI hasn’t kept up with beef, among lots of things
4WD
$50 site donor 2025
Used prices at car guru for 77060 winds up steering me to new …
Thanks , we tested alternator and it was fine for now. However no shocker at mileage or previous oily condition if it fails.
6AT shifts really well and no shudder ! Maybe a little harsh shift in our 0F weather and no warm up.
Timing belt was changed , it was dealer maintained till 120k.
State University there cheaper with a great education
Up to the daughter to figure out, I plan to not cosign any loans I don't feel comfortable with, and plan to persuade her to do the same. But if the college of her choice throws money at her... her call. The problem with looking at colleges is that the advertised price is never the actual price, as financial aid is on a per-person basis.
She just did one audition for one college, I think the next audition is in a few weeks. Another month and we might know what program she got into, and maybe the cost, and then can determine path.
I know my coworkers sent their kids out of state. I think at least one said UMaine was cheaper than UNH. I don't memorize the costs so I don't know offhand. I know I was content with a state school, but I went with mundane old engineering and had no pressing need to go to a better school.
Nick1994
$100 site donor 2024
You shouldn’t need to co-sign for student loans unless she’s getting private loans. I got the federal loans through FAFSA for college in 2016 and my parents never signed anything or were involved with any of my college process.
Fortunately I didn’t need the loans and repaid them upon graduating in 2019.
No idea yet on the details. I just know the wife is pointing out that we'll get hosed on it, as we had a good year last year, so whatever federal aid might have been, won't be. Which I understand, but still. I think what she's looking at is like $60k/yr--but they are quick to point out that "everyone" gets aid so it's really hard to have any planning before all the paperwork is done. [I keep pointing out to the daughter that she has to pay it back--so it's about the bottom line.]
The wife is planning to return to work this summer and figures on her income somehow paying for this expenditure, if not in full then in a way that greatly reduces the cost.
We'll see in a couple of months. I'm hoping tears won't be involved.
