Bio-based gun lubes?

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There are several out there now that claim to be bio based in whole or in part, and all the HOBS talk lately has me thinking about them for guns. Slip 2000 CLP (claims biodegradability), Gunzilla (claims 100% non petroleum), and even RLI has a "synthetic blend" gun oil. I was wondering if anyone has used any of these products and what they thought.

Bruce, if you're out there, would especially appreciate your opinion. Thanks.
 
""Bruce, if you're out there, would especially appreciate your opinion. Thanks"'

Do not really have any other than most I see are repacked industrial rust inhibs or just "lube/Trans/Motor" Oils
 
Iosso gun oil is listed on some Iowa ag site (maybe the Iowa Soybean Council or somesuch, I can't recall - senior stuff) as a bio-based lube contributing to the soybean economy. I asked Iosso for their MSDS, it was promised, but never received. All I can say is I've seen a number of unsold bottles at Gander Mountain leaking this thick brown syrup. I have to wonder about their add pack
 
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thick brown syrup



This has been my question on bio-lubes, even for guns: Oxidation. How long is this stuff good for? Could you store a gun for 10 years with it and still have a usable product? And guns can generate a LOT of heat in a hurry (especially belt feds) and can get much hotter than most parts of an engine. This can't be good for oxidation of the product either.

Not sure if the HOBS excellent "film strength" would be a major factor in guns or not.
 
I recall people using "Neat's foot oil" on firearms before.

That's bio, but made from vegetarians rather than vegetables.
 
For gun lube I always like a lube that will not harden or gum up thats trouble on a 45 slide. If I had to bury a gun for survival then a sticky lube that will allow NO RUST ever like old cosomoline would be good even tho cleaning may need gasoline.

performance should be whats counts bio or not use whatever workd in YOUR case.
bruce
 
Bruce, I agree with your comments.

We have a neat club, shooting mostly .22 (rifles).

Whenever a newbie starts to get misfires, a couple of the old fogies scream "sticky firing pin", race over with a can of WD40, drench the bolt on WD40, and declare it fixed.

Few months later, same guy, same problem, same fix.

I can't convince them that the WD40 IS the problem, not the cure.

I like a "2 stroke" mix of 10:1 white spirit and ATF.
 
I have been using the new Lubegard Premium Universal Lubricant in the spray bottle, which is a VERY clean material. Excellent lubricity without add's, even on stainless pistols which tend to gall, and no corrosion issues witnessed.

It solves the problem which I always despised about chlorinated/CLP/old-fashioned petro lubes which was the smell which permeated my hands after multiple washings.

I have also played with using Lubegard ATF, P/S protectant and engine lubes on guns and they all worked very well. The P/S Protectant is a great thin visc/cold weather gun oil, and helps my super-tight Les Baer 1911 run like its slide is on ball bearings. But all of the above fail the stink test since they are additized, sulfurized, phosphited, or such, etc.
 
Slip 2000 works well and Bristol works good too. They say bio but who knows? Could Slip 2000 be an ester base? It cleans well and sticks great.
 
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Could Slip 2000 be an ester base?



That's my guess, at least in part. I think most of it is a HOBS or similar oil like the RLI stuff. I have heard that it contains Calcium Sulfonate for an anti-corrosion and AW/EP add, but cannot confirm.
 
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