Bike Chain Maintenance

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Jun 4, 2003
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Bike chain maintenance makes a BIG difference in drivetrain efficiency and longevity. There are different methods: some work better than others, and more than one way to do it right.
How do you maintain your bike chain? And why do you use that method?

My method is "old school" but has worked well for me for many years:
Frequency: once a month, or about 300 road miles or 50 trail miles.
Use the classic Park chain scrubber tool, filled with WD-40 as the solvent/cleaner.
Cover the wheel & bike with shop rags to protect from splatter.
Snap the tool on and turn pedals (using the tool) until the chain is spanky clean.
Remove the tool and dry the chain with a shop rag.
Clean the chainrings/sprockets/derailleur cogs with an old toothbrush, then wipe them clean.
Apply chainsaw bar & chain oil to the chain: about 5 large drops on each side.
Work the oil into the chain by turning the pedals while squeezing the chain with a shop rag.

Why this method:
WD-40 is not a chain lube, but it is a good cleaning solvent. Not too harsh and displaces water. And you can buy it in bulk (about $20 / gallon).
Chainsaw bar & chain oil: heavy enough to have sufficient film strength to minimize metal-metal contact. Also has a tackifier agent to stick to the chain and reduce or eliminate splatter. Inexpensive, about $15 / gallon which is nearly a lifetime supply.
No need to remove the chain from the bike (as wax soak treatments require).
Proven results over time: decades of use in a variety of conditions from wet mud to dry desert sand with silent operation and good chain life.
 
I've always tried to balance lubrication with the potential to attract grit. I find the "chain lube" products do a good job lubricating without the stickiness that attracts. Particularly from the motorcycle industry - Honda and Silkaleen. I've never wanted my cleaning agent to dilute my lubricant so I've always, at least, hosed the chain down with brake cleaner and allowed to dry before lubricating.

I've never worn a chain out so I'm obviously not a great test subject though!
 
I do a similar clean method but I use "Orange" (Finish Line Citrus) cleaner. The idea of any spray lube near my brake pads makes me noivous. I do this cleaning step during my normal bike wash and fully realize there are extra steps involved. Naturally the chain must be very dry before the next lube step.

For wet/winter I use Squirt Chain lube. It's tacky and initially water based, but when dry good waxy coating.

For summer/dry: Muc-Off Dry Lube. Not near as tacky and leaves a nice coating
 
The concern here is dust & grit, anything that stays tacky ends up covered in the hard granite based dust. I've been using Rock N Roll Gold lube after a bike shop recommended it and it works well for me. First clean chain off the bike with MEK usually and let dry. Put back on bike and apply the lube to each link then spin backwards for a bit and feel it get easier to spin. Spin some more and wipe the chain with a rag. If it's really dusty I'll wipe the chain clean with a rag and reapply every ride usually 15-20 miles. I get 1800 miles on a $30 Shimano 12 speed chain in almost 100% dusty conditions. When the chain indicates 50% to replace on a Park chain gauge I replace it to save the gears. Had to replace cassette and chainring at 3800 miles.

This was after a 15 mile ride in Utah last week. The pedaling got gritty about half way through. Like riding in 2" of talcum powder.
chain dust.jpg
chain dust 2.jpg
 
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Every couple weeks I apply White Lightning Wet Lube from Walmart, since I ride it all weather applications tends to vary. Every month or two I soak everything with simple green and pressure wash the chain and rings. The KMC chains tends to last 3k. Like I said I commute/tour on the bike so I'm not going to mess with it everyday. Just did 441 miles on the OK Freewheel and hit rain almost everyday so had to reapply a couple times, chain is pretty dirty but nothing unusual.
 
I run the park chain scrubber about monthly with mineral spirits, scrub the cassette and chainrings with an old toothbrush. Give it a wipe with a rag and let dry overnight. I've been back and forth on lube, I've used white lighting, but it got gummy after a while, atf, and tri-flow. Way back I'd used elmers slide-all, really a dry lube, all the solvent carrier would evaporate. It was pricy, even by bike lube standards, and the chain would sound different. Not squeeky, but louder-ish.
I prefer to lube the chain after a ride, I think it works into it better. If nothing else, the chain rings and stays do stay cleaner.
 
I take the chain off the bike, pull through the chain scrubber with orange citrus cleaner,
spray with garden hose until no suds, wipe down with rag, sit in sun or hot plate to drive out moisture,
reinstall on bike, apply one drop of chainsaw bar oil to each link, run pedals to work in,
wipe down again with rag, and wipe again after a few rides.
Bar oil stays put, repels water for ~500 miles.
This is an e-bike commuting on city streets, ~1500 miles per year.
 
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good bristle.
carpro apc 1:15 spray on bike, sometimes use prewash foam.
brush the chain, rinse, dry.
then spray each roller link a 1 drop of :

sprej-na-retaz-motul-c3-chain-lube-off-road-0-4l.jpg

wipe chain dry. this spray has solvents , it will flush hidden dirt. contains ep aditives.
dont buy onroad, sticky dirt magnet.
 
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imho, most important to clean is what is hidden. all youtube videos are about to make look good chain from outside.
when i lube with that spray, i get black towel from cleaning exces... the chain was cleaned before that ! (shiny outside)

these chain parts if get grit for long enough, i suspect this is main source of "chain stretch"
metal sheet parts are quite durable, and will not stretch. but grit will make tolerances wider in those hidden spaces.
ideally lube would be only inside chain rollers and dirt tight.
and that is motochain:
o-ring-or-x-ring-chains.jpg
 
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