Big no no..... goes back to 1985

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I remember buying my first diesel pickup. 1985 Ford 6.9 diesel with a 4-speed. I'll admit I remember the first few years of it life I didn't know about using a diesel-rated oil in it... I used 10w-30 or 10w-40 Pennzoil for the first 50K miles or so... later I switched to Arco 15w-40 when I found out. When I couldn't get Arco and the remainer years before I sold it I used the Chev Delo 15w-40. I sold it around 2001 with 175K. Original motor never leaked or burned oil. Still tight and good power. What I liked about that motor you could drop the clutch at idle on a hill and it would crawl right up without a stumble.
 
Originally Posted By: motor_oil_madman
you can drop the clutch at idle with any diesel. It's all torque.
the 4.0L gasser in my jeep Wrangler will drive off if you let out the clutch. So will the 392 in my IHC pickup.

Guy on a Scout board posted pics once...He was having starter trouble with his Scout. He jumped the Solonoid and the 345 fired up. Scout was in 1st gear and it drove through a wall of his garage and kept on going.
 
Originally Posted By: motor_oil_madman
you can drop the clutch at idle with any diesel. It's all torque.


Not my 240d. You couldn't peel out if you floored the accelerator, dropped the clutch, turning right, in the rain!
 
Originally Posted By: Blaze
I remember buying my first diesel pickup. 1985 Ford 6.9 diesel with a 4-speed. I'll admit I remember the first few years of it life I didn't know about using a diesel-rated oil in it... I used 10w-30 or 10w-40 Pennzoil for the first 50K miles or so... later I switched to Arco 15w-40 when I found out. When I couldn't get Arco and the remainer years before I sold it I used the Chev Delo 15w-40. I sold it around 2001 with 175K. Original motor never leaked or burned oil. Still tight and good power. What I liked about that motor you could drop the clutch at idle on a hill and it would crawl right up without a stumble.


It got buy with PCMO because all it required was API CF, which doesn't have much soot carrying capacity compared to todays oil. Plus the OCI was 3000 miles. And, it's a stout engine relative to it's power output. I have an '86, bought nearly new. Added a turbo kit in '87. If you liked your '84 in NA form, you'd really like it with a turbo. ( : < )
 
In my 86 6.9 I ran Penzoil HD 30 & used Fram oil filters it's entire life. Truck was stolen @ 450,000 mi. It was never @ a dealer. I did put 5 water pumps in it, 3 clutch's and replaced transfer case @ 410,000. The injectors were replaced @ 385,000. That was the best vehicle I ever owned. Never leaked oil always started , never left me stranded
 
I did replace the injector pump on mine at 150K or around that??.. I also installed a push button glow plug system on it later on after problems with the factory system.
 
Originally Posted By: Jim Allen
Originally Posted By: Blaze
I remember buying my first diesel pickup. 1985 Ford 6.9 diesel with a 4-speed. I'll admit I remember the first few years of it life I didn't know about using a diesel-rated oil in it... I used 10w-30 or 10w-40 Pennzoil for the first 50K miles or so... later I switched to Arco 15w-40 when I found out. When I couldn't get Arco and the remainer years before I sold it I used the Chev Delo 15w-40. I sold it around 2001 with 175K. Original motor never leaked or burned oil. Still tight and good power. What I liked about that motor you could drop the clutch at idle on a hill and it would crawl right up without a stumble.


It got buy with PCMO because all it required was API CF, which doesn't have much soot carrying capacity compared to todays oil. Plus the OCI was 3000 miles. And, it's a stout engine relative to it's power output. I have an '86, bought nearly new. Added a turbo kit in '87. If you liked your '84 in NA form, you'd really like it with a turbo. ( : < )


So it did (pennzoil) have a diesel rating then?
 
I went with Schaeffer 9000, but I think using a quality diesel synthetic (Delvac, etc..) is the only way to treat a diesel engine. Nevermind cold starts, the idle cool down with the newer turbo's is critical.. those turbo bearings get seriously hot, well above 450 degrees after a long run with a load .. God forbid you shut down the motor at a gas station without giving it 2-3 min cool down and you're burning oil..
 
Moot point.

Engines and oils now are much more product application specific.

While I'd use a CJ-4 in a gasser, I wouldn't use a SM-4 in a common rail, DI turbo-diesel; at least not for very long. (Presuming the grades are correct or near-correct).

The MOST important thing for lubrication is the presence of fluid, period. Having the right amount of the wrong oil is preferred over having not enough of the right oil. From there, we start the never-ending debate of the nuances of which oil is "best" ...

Use a lube rated for the correct appliction, and you'll be fine. ("Up-specing" is OK too; using CJ-4 where CH-4 or CI-4 was the norm, etc.)

Use the wrong lube, and you'll likely be OK for a while, but there also might be degredation you're not aware of because you've not reached the (pre-mature, shortened) end of life cycle.
 
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I'm sure I could get my with PCMO in my 12 valve. Last uoa showed 0 for soot...not sure the measuring parameters they used...but zero is still zero!
 
I got my first Ford diesel as a new 1989 F250SC 5 speed manual. They recommended 15w40 CD rating back then. All the stores had CC rated oil so for this "new rating" I had to go to Ford and buy their Motorcraft oil straight from the dealer. That truck had every factory option except auto trans and list was $22,000. Quite a far cry from these new worthless pieces of junk at nearly $70,000 that aren't worth $1500.
 
In the early 1980's, Havoline advertised that their 10W-30 was diesel rated, but their 10W-40 did not.

Also, in the early 1980's, API SF oil still had 1000-1200ppm ZN/P, so it would handle diesels apps better than todays reduced Zn/P 10W-30's......
 
I just dug out the original maintenance schedule/recommendations for my '86 F250 6.9L diesel and, yep, all it required was API SF/CC. It says the truck was factory filled with 10W30. 10W30 and 10W40 were "recommended" and both those viscosities covered 0F to 100F+. 15W40 was on the chart for +10 to 100F+. SAE 30 mongrade for +40 to 100F+ and 5W30 for -20 and below up to +60F. Even 20W50 shows up there in the +20 to 100F+ temps.

I ran 15W40 for most of my trucks life, the past 5 years or so running 10W30 mostly. Will stick with 10W30 unless I decide to experiment with something.
 
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(probably no suprise) but I agree with Jim completely. There are a lot of fluid choices that will work, but some are "better" than others, simply because of their WIDE applicability. In that regard, 10w-30 HDEO will cover 98% of most applications.

If it gets so stupid cold (below -20 deg F) or so blazing hot (OATs in the 110 deg F range, while pulling ultra-heavy loads), you ought to consider a PAO product, if those conditions are the "norm" for your operational pattern. I don't mean "might happen occasionally"; I mean it as if that is what your equipment will see as a daily exposure routine.

Short of that, the 10w-30 HDEO is one of the better all-around products. There are always exceptions to this rule, but this fluid is a VERY good starting point that will cover most all applications.
 
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Jim Allen and dnewton3 back to back.........two of the more trusted posters here with solid advice. Thank you guys.

I remember it was about 1995 +/- when federal regulations took the diesel rating off of PCMO. I noticed the new bottles said "for gasoline engines only" and I called Valvolene to confirm that the additive levels changed vs. just a packaging change.

With this change, I found it very difficult to find a diesel 10W30 for our Kubota and dealers recommended going to 15W40.
 
Originally Posted By: Jim Allen
I just dug out the original maintenance schedule/recommendations for my '86 F250 6.9L diesel and, yep, all it required was API SF/CC. It says the truck was factory filled with 10W30. 10W30 and 10W40 were "recommended" and both those viscosities covered 0F to 100F+. 15W40 was on the chart for +10 to 100F+. SAE 30 mongrade for +40 to 100F+ and 5W30 for -20 and below up to +60F. Even 20W50 shows up there in the +20 to 100F+ temps.

Looks like my truck was safe back then on the regular old Pennzoil. Thanks!
 
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