Changing Oil Brand for My 6.7

Also 10W-30 is a dated design that serves little purpose anymore, just like 10W-40 that some old timers just can't let go of. There are much more modern designed oils that will protect better in a wider range.
I see you tell jokes, huh. 10w30 isn’t a “dated” design just because todays US engines don’t call for it due to fuel economy pursuits. On the contrary, @High Performance Lubricants No VII 10w30 is among today’s most advanced oils you could possibly put into your sump.

In about 95% of all engines in about 95% of the US, you could easily run 10w30 year round with no detriment. Mobil 1 just reformulated their EP 10w30 to API SP, and HPL released both a 10w20 and 10w30 within the past year.

If choosing a good brand, a 10wXX oil is likely to be formulated with very little to zero VIIs, meaning viscosity loss due to mechanical shearing is not as likely, and these oils generally possess extremely low Noack evaporation as well. Considering 10wXX oils are good to -25C at a bare minimum, exactly what do you mean that a 0wXX or 5wXX oil will “protect better over a wider range”?

Just because you’ve drank the CAFE Kool-Aid doesn’t mean engines in the real world agree.
 
I see you tell jokes, huh. 10w30 isn’t a “dated” design just because todays US engines don’t call for it due to fuel economy pursuits. On the contrary, @High Performance Lubricants No VII 10w30 is among today’s most advanced oils you could possibly put into your sump.

In about 95% of all engines in about 95% of the US, you could easily run 10w30 year round with no detriment. Mobil 1 just reformulated their EP 10w30 to API SP, and HPL released both a 10w20 and 10w30 within the past year.

If choosing a good brand, a 10wXX oil is likely to be formulated with very little to zero VIIs, meaning viscosity loss due to mechanical shearing is not as likely, and these oils generally possess extremely low Noack evaporation as well. Considering 10wXX oils are good to -25C at a bare minimum, exactly what do you mean that a 0wXX or 5wXX oil will “protect better over a wider range”?

Just because you’ve drank the CAFE Kool-Aid doesn’t mean engines in the real world agree.
Yep … just bought some Mobil 1 EP 10W30 (triple) … think it’s a good oil for down south …
 
Considering 10wXX oils are good to -25C at a bare minimum, exactly what do you mean that a 0wXX or 5wXX oil will “protect better over a wider range”

Unless he’s in Alaska or somewhere yeah 10w30 is good for most of the continental US, of course when the oil spec matches what the engine calls for.
 
I run a full synthetic 5W40 oil that is on the Ford approved list. I go two clicks of the OLM. And have a bypass filter.

While Amsoil oil is excellent oil, I can find other excellent oils at better prices at Walmart or Amazon.

But I do use Amsoil for trans, xfer case and both diff.
 
Unless he’s in Alaska or somewhere yeah 10w30 is good for most of the continental US, of course when the oil spec matches what the engine calls for.

idk man I was cold cranking in -13 and i was cycling the grid heater and my 6.7 HATED cold starting with t6 5w-40... I had to take it unexpectingly so I didnt have it plugged in.

i mean 5w is supposed to be goopd down to -20, -23 maybe?
 
idk man I was cold cranking in -13 and i was cycling the grid heater and my 6.7 HATED cold starting with t6 5w-40... I had to take it unexpectingly so I didnt have it plugged in.

i mean 5w is supposed to be goopd down to -20, -23 maybe?
That’s where glow plugs are supposed to earn their money, but plugging your car in does help in weather that’s that cold.
 
idk man I was cold cranking in -13 and i was cycling the grid heater and my 6.7 HATED cold starting with t6 5w-40... I had to take it unexpectingly so I didnt have it plugged in.

i mean 5w is supposed to be goopd down to -20, -23 maybe?
T6 or Valvoline Premium Blue Extreme 5w40 crank slower in my 6.7L but okay unplugged during the winter in -19F in Sault Ste. Marie, MI. During snowmobile season we take the trailer up and the truck sits outside for a few days, at that point I’m more concerned about fuel gelling than the oil.
 
My Ford dealer (has Quick Lane) lets you bring your own oil and filter, why doesn't yours?
Because the parts department is the main profit center for many dealerships. The same guy who brings their own oil will often want to bring their own cabin filter or engine air filter then ask why you can’t install that for free since you’ve already got the old one out or put in their bulb or battery for free because they weren’t going to be charged to install one they bought from the parts dept.

It gets even crazier when the customers are able to access the shop. The stuff I’ve been asked to replace or diagnose “since you’ve already got it in the air” are endless.
 
I've always taken my Amsoil to every dealer I've ever gone to in 30 years and have never been refused my oil. Last week on my wife's Lexus I brought in my own oil, my daughter's VW I brought in my own oil, at Ford dealership my 6.7 2019 Lariat I brought in my own oil. When I use to go to the quick lube shops it was the same thing, I brought in my own oil and never a word was said. In fact, when the dealer has a sale on oil changes back years ago they charged $29.00 for an oil change I would bring my own oil and filters they deducted that from their price in the $29.00 and I think they charged me $18.00 for an oil change on my Diesel Excursion.
One dealership I was at stole their price structure for customer supplied oil from the Valvoline Fast Lube across the street. If you wanted to bring your own oil and filter they’d use it but the labor cost was adjusted to equal the price of a complete service including parts. So a 5 qt MC oil change with filter was 29.95 and you brought in AmsOil with your own filter it was 29.95 in labor or 69.95 labor for a diesel oil change with your parts.

They eventually dropped using customer supplied parts at all after a lawsuit over a customer supplied alternator at a different location.
 
Back
Top