Better oils or easier engines

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Originally Posted By: ENGINEER60
We had synthetic Mobil 1 oil 40 years ago and it was too thin then too.
Noobs believe all the hype and bad info circulated today.
Those of us that have worked on cars for 40plus years
know the truth




Never heard of Mobil 1.
 
Originally Posted By: ENGINEER60
We had synthetic Mobil 1 oil 40 years ago and it was too thin then too.
Noobs believe all the hype and bad info circulated today.
Those of us that have worked on cars for 40plus years
know the truth


What is the truth .

I know , I can not handle the truth ! Sorry I asked .
 
Originally Posted By: WyrTwister
Originally Posted By: ENGINEER60
We had synthetic Mobil 1 oil 40 years ago and it was too thin then too.
Noobs believe all the hype and bad info circulated today.
Those of us that have worked on cars for 40plus years
know the truth


What is the truth .

I know , I can not handle the truth ! Sorry I asked .





The truth is out there,,,,or is it? I tried a search to find out about the millions of engines that have been ruined due to thin oil and I could not find anything.

I guess it has nothing to do on the weekends except go fishing on forums.
 
Originally Posted By: Garak
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
Don't know if you're old enough or have lived in a cold enough climate to have done this, but I can tell you from personal experience that in real cold, you want a carburetor and not FI.

I've certainly forced a carbed vehicle to start in temperatures where I probably should not have, given what was sitting in the sump. I've been able to force unaided starts below -40 without too much difficulty. The real problem with a carbed vehicle can be to get it to idle at an awful temperature like that without being babysat.


I only had 2 or 3 carb vehicles, and 2 of them had dead chokes. Thankfully never any real cold. But real fun getting enough heat into them to idle in a Maine winter.
 
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
-7C?
That's nothing.
Did these carbs lack squirters?


Yes, 1-3/4" S.U. on my 186 c.i. six.

I had a squirt bottle of ethanol if it got too upset.
 
The biggest pain I ran into was when the manufacturers started putting in those foam floats instead of the brass ones. Those foam floats would eventually get laden from the gasoline and sink. The 70’s were bad for that. Fuel injection is a real joy compared to those carburetors.
 
Originally Posted By: csandste
The Renuzit Experiment

How about Blackstone getting satisfactory results using a seventy-five year old oil with almost no additives. We worry too much!


That link is fascinating. I was wondering if it was the same company as the air freshener company we know now, and sure enough, it is.

I checked images of the can it said Renuzit Home Products Company - and that's the same place and it would have been called that around the same time (1947)

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Renuzit
 
Originally Posted By: PimTac
The biggest pain I ran into was when the manufacturers started putting in those foam floats instead of the brass ones. Those foam floats would eventually get laden from the gasoline and sink. The 70’s were bad for that. Fuel injection is a real joy compared to those carburetors.


In spite of the ease of cold weather starting with carbs that I noted above as reinforced by a couple of replies from those who have also been there and done that, any PFI setup I've ever had is preferable simply because it's so predictable and maintenance free. You turn the key and it starts, simple as that.
I've never even replaced a fuel pump on any FI car we've owned and have never had problems with injectors and most of these cars went well beyond 150K and sometimes beyond 200K in our hands.
 
It very rarely gets below -5F and VERY , VERY Rarely gets Below -10F , here . So , I will take FI every time .

I replaced the electric in takk fule pump on a 1996 Chevy Lumina and a 1991 Chevy Caprice . Pain dropping the tank to do this .

Should have replaced the whole assembly ( including the fuel gauge sending unit ) on the Caprice . Sending unit is problematic .

100F 105F is pretty common , but that does not seem to affect FI . No vapor lock with an in tank electric pump .
 
It gets below -10F here every winter. FI works very well.

I think the battery in my Tundra is weak but with 0W30 it cranks like champ. And oil changes are a snap with such water thin oil too.
 
Originally Posted By: supton
I only had 2 or 3 carb vehicles, and 2 of them had dead chokes. Thankfully never any real cold. But real fun getting enough heat into them to idle in a Maine winter.

Try it in a Saskatchewan winter.
wink.gif
The F-150, with its horrible carb, I could force some pretty cold starts. Other vehicles, as mentioned below -40 without a big issue. The idling though, oy vey.
 
Originally Posted By: Garak
Originally Posted By: supton
I only had 2 or 3 carb vehicles, and 2 of them had dead chokes. Thankfully never any real cold. But real fun getting enough heat into them to idle in a Maine winter.

Try it in a Saskatchewan winter.
wink.gif
The F-150, with its horrible carb, I could force some pretty cold starts. Other vehicles, as mentioned below -40 without a big issue. The idling though, oy vey.


Oh I'm sure. It's not really that hard to get something to start with a dead choke: it's the same 2-3 pumps before cranking. But then you have to keep pumping once it starts, to keep the accelerator pump shooting in extra gas. Then when it can stay running at high idle, then I could carefully limp off. Manual trans, naturally.

The last one I had managed to have power nothing. If the engine stalled coming up to a light the brakes and steering were completely unaffected. I rather liked that. [Wasn't about to fix, it was summer and I bought the truck to drive for only the summer. Needed to save every cent I could for winter.]
 
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