Best way to remove snapped starter bolt???

Joined
Jan 8, 2024
Messages
21
Hi
Looking to remove a snapped starter bolt on a 2003 mercury grand Marquis.

What’s the best way to go about this?

Been soaking it with penetrating oil.

See pictures highlighted in red.
Thanks

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Remove the starter & weld a nut on the bolt shank, Unfortunately.....You have 2 more bolts to remove, But I assume the bolt got snapped trying to swap the starter?
The other two bolts came out easily.
However the snapped one is still threaded inside the starter “ear” (bolt snapped off at the head)
 
I do not miss rusty old vehicles.

My guess is that thin steel cover plate and steel bolt have galvanically attached themselves to the bell housing. Once you get the starter out soak it in something like PB blaster, it should help with the galvanic corrosion, then maybe you can get a vice grip on it - or the part sticking out the back.
 
Remove the starter & weld a nut on the bolt shank, Unfortunately.....You have 2 more bolts to remove, But I assume the bolt got snapped trying to swap the starter?
Yes, trying to remove old starter & bolt snapped off at the head.
Two other bolts are already removed, starter won’t budge. I assume the snapped bolt is still holding the starter in?
 
It has seized because the bolt threads extend outward.

For the remaining bolts, those exposed threads need to be sprayed with PB Blaster and let soak for a day. Use heat and back out the bolts going back and forth. Once you remove the starter, see if you can drill out the broken bolt. You can either retap new threads going to a larger bolt or just drill out the threads and back up the bolt on the other end with a nut.
 
An air hammer will help with that job. Use a pry bar between thee starter and bell housing, apply some pressure while hitting the ear on the starter with a punch chisel in the air hammer, no need to get crazy just rattle it.
Once the starter is out see what is left of the bolt, if there is enough left you may be able to use small vise grips or hammer on a power grip socket. Give where the threads where they are in the bell housing a good rattle and some heat before trying to remove it.
As others have said no threads in the starter.

starter.webp
 
if you can grab it after you remove the starter......soak with 50 50 mix of acetone and ATF. Apply with presision and do not allow to come into contact with plasitcs connectors and the like. Grab with vice grips or small pipe wrench and twist. Heat perhaps. If that does not work, you need to weld a nut on it .
 
I want someone with much more experience than myself to comment. You have enough bolt protrusion to put a piece of copper tubing or plastic over it to get to the exact center to carefully drill it out.Start with the largest bit that fits in the tubing.All you want to do is just dimple the bolt for a exact center.Pick a smaller very high quality bit with a lube to start drilling, slow and carefully. Work your way up.I feel your pain as I also live in the rust belt.I have in my arsenal,left hand center bits to start and left hand twist drill bits.I have had left hand bits walk fasteners out,hopefully with all the good advice here you find a solution.A good thread chaser,not tap,inspect,clean or replace the bolts.Good luck!
 
I want someone with much more experience than myself to comment. You have enough bolt protrusion to put a piece of copper tubing or plastic over it to get to the exact center to carefully drill it out.Start with the largest bit that fits in the tubing.All you want to do is just dimple the bolt for a exact center.Pick a smaller very high quality bit with a lube to start drilling, slow and carefully. Work your way up.I feel your pain as I also live in the rust belt.I have in my arsenal,left hand center bits to start and left hand twist drill bits.I have had left hand bits walk fasteners out,hopefully with all the good advice here you find a solution.A good thread chaser,not tap,inspect,clean or replace the bolts.Good luck!
right.

in this instance, it is a through bolt, several ways to skin this cat. I wish they were all that "easy". One could drill through and through bolt with a washer and nut on whatever side aswell. might be better than original
 
I want someone with much more experience than myself to comment. You have enough bolt protrusion to put a piece of copper tubing or plastic over it to get to the exact center to carefully drill it out.Start with the largest bit that fits in the tubing.All you want to do is just dimple the bolt for a exact center.Pick a smaller very high quality bit with a lube to start drilling, slow and carefully. Work your way up.I feel your pain as I also live in the rust belt.I have in my arsenal,left hand center bits to start and left hand twist drill bits.I have had left hand bits walk fasteners out,hopefully with all the good advice here you find a solution.A good thread chaser,not tap,inspect,clean or replace the bolts.Good luck!
Certainly no expert, but often when I drilled an initial hole into the bolt with a smaller bit with the intention of moving to a larger bit next, the heat from drilling and vibration would loosen the bolt so it could be threaded out with a vice grip afterwards. My Father taught me this - drill a centering hole most of the way through first then try a vice grip again.
 
I want someone with much more experience than myself to comment. You have enough bolt protrusion to put a piece of copper tubing or plastic over it to get to the exact center to carefully drill it out.Start with the largest bit that fits in the tubing.All you want to do is just dimple the bolt for a exact center.Pick a smaller very high quality bit with a lube to start drilling, slow and carefully. Work your way up.I feel your pain as I also live in the rust belt.I have in my arsenal,left hand center bits to start and left hand twist drill bits.I have had left hand bits walk fasteners out,hopefully with all the good advice here you find a solution.A good thread chaser,not tap,inspect,clean or replace the bolts.Good luck!
I considered that but from the pic I can't tell if there's clearance for the body of a drill or even a drill chuck. The starter itself may push your drill down forcing you to drill at an angle.

I still think everyone is overthinking this. Get the starter tab HOT and then try to remove. Be careful w a pry bar at the joint because you don't want to snap the bellhousing. Be careful with an air hammer as collateral damage can be significant if you're not a little experienced with them.

If OP doesn't have O/A now's the time to buy a PortATorch, but MAPPamateur (falsely named as MAPP Pro) might get you there.
 
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