So as you guys know black shows all. Well im looking for opinions on the best scratch repair product. I'm discussing light scratches that you can't even feel with your nail. Obviously a larger heavier scratch usually requires 2000 grit sand paper and light wet sanding. But for light scratches and swirls what has worked best for you?
Best product for light scratches
- Thread starter ram_man
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at my work we use 3m Perfect-It rubbing compound
goes for around $30/bottle +-, but imo is night and day compared to any other compound.
grab a microfiber ( a GOOD one), a dab of this, and give it a go.
goes for around $30/bottle +-, but imo is night and day compared to any other compound.
grab a microfiber ( a GOOD one), a dab of this, and give it a go.
I've had good luck using an random orbital polisher from harbor freight, foam pads with Mothers carnuba cleaner polish on fine scratches resulting from dusting and washing/cleaning. Chemical Guys make a great set of compounds in different grades in a small bottle kit of four. I use this stuff progressively to address deeper imperfections under the polisher and finish with the Mothers.
Ultimate compound and ultimate polish both available OTC w/ harbor freight or griots polisher. I leave the 3m compounds for the body shop.
The critic was really getting into detailing cars, including some serious paint correction. Wish he'd chime in. Speaking of the critic, where has he gone to? Don't recall seeing any posts or replies by him in a while....
I've used Meguiar's Scratch-X 2.0. Easy to use and works much better than I expected to on my very dark gray Subaru which scratches if you look at it funny.
Meguiar's Scratch-X and/or Ultimate Compound on heavy scratches. Meguiar's Ultimate Polish to finish up and for slight scratches. You can use all those products by hand with good results. I've used all of these products on a black car and pretty happy with the results. Got quite a few really bad scratches out and looks like new.
JHZR2
Staff member
The only solution is to avoid them. Easier said then done, but it's key to avoid them to start.
From there, reality is that everything removes clear, so you're truly best off going as gentle a process as possible.
I like a no cut or extremely light cut pad with some compound as a first try. Optimum hyper compound spray is a good choice because it is inherently wet, can be spread/prime the pad after a really good wash and decontamination. I'd argue to do the whole panel and then re-wax/seal.
I'd hate to go with too heavy a cut and then have to polish more and keep removing clear the whole time.
Look up the optimum spray at autogeek or elsewhere.
The Critic will likely have other good insight I'm sure.
From there, reality is that everything removes clear, so you're truly best off going as gentle a process as possible.
I like a no cut or extremely light cut pad with some compound as a first try. Optimum hyper compound spray is a good choice because it is inherently wet, can be spread/prime the pad after a really good wash and decontamination. I'd argue to do the whole panel and then re-wax/seal.
I'd hate to go with too heavy a cut and then have to polish more and keep removing clear the whole time.
Look up the optimum spray at autogeek or elsewhere.
The Critic will likely have other good insight I'm sure.
Use this with a 3M fine blue pad on a polisher, you can use a DA if you don't have the experience with a rotary polisher.
Forget the boutique name stuff, they are low performance consumer grade time wasters, 3M is pro grade and work better than all that stuff put together.
http://www.detailing.com/store/3m-06068-...CFQFahgodwlwPdQ
Forget the boutique name stuff, they are low performance consumer grade time wasters, 3M is pro grade and work better than all that stuff put together.
http://www.detailing.com/store/3m-06068-...CFQFahgodwlwPdQ
First, wash, clay, and wash again with blue Dawn dish soap. After that, mask the plastic and rubber trim with painter's tape. To correct the paint, use a Harbor Freight dual action buffer with a 5" backing plate, Meguiars DMC5 microfiber cutting pads, and Meguiars D300 scratch correction compound. Always use ultra thick and plush microfiber towels to wipe the compounds et al off. Follow with a polish or cleaner wax with a medium foam pad (I'm a fan of the white Lake Country CCS pad for this step), and since it's black, use Meguiars Black Wax with a a blue or red Lake Country CCS pad, and jewel that stuff on there. It will look like you can go for a swim in the paint. Avoid all car washes except for touchless washes, and use a decent car wash soap when you hand wash.
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So to remove swirls and very minor scratches would I be best off to use a soap like dawn to strip the wax off the car then use a product that addresses scratches and swirls and then after buffing that in. Should I them wipe excess off and then wax it?
Originally Posted By: ram_man
So to remove swirls and very minor scratches would I be best off to use a soap like dawn to strip the wax off the car then use a product that addresses scratches and swirls and then after buffing that in. Should I them wipe excess off and then wax it?
I was assuming you would just go ahead and do the whole vehicle, and not just one spot, so yes, in that case you need to prepare the paint for buffing. Dawn dish soap is strong stuff, and it will get rid of most existing waxes and oils. You need to have at least 2 buckets to keep from scratching the paint further. After the first wash, you must clay bar the paint to remove surface contaminants! Wash again with Dawn and multiple buckets method. Once you dry the paint, you need to mask rubber and unpainted plastic before you start buffing. There are excellent videos on YouTube by user Junkman2000 on how to use a dual action buffer. And yes, after you compound, you wipe off the excess. Then you follow with polish or cleaner wax (and wipe the excess). Finally, finish with either a sealant or top coat wax (like black wax).
If you only want to do the one spot, I would wash the whole car like normal with normal car wash soap. Then use a scratch compound on the spots (wipe off when done). Followed by a polish coat, wiping off, and a final wax coat.
So to remove swirls and very minor scratches would I be best off to use a soap like dawn to strip the wax off the car then use a product that addresses scratches and swirls and then after buffing that in. Should I them wipe excess off and then wax it?
I was assuming you would just go ahead and do the whole vehicle, and not just one spot, so yes, in that case you need to prepare the paint for buffing. Dawn dish soap is strong stuff, and it will get rid of most existing waxes and oils. You need to have at least 2 buckets to keep from scratching the paint further. After the first wash, you must clay bar the paint to remove surface contaminants! Wash again with Dawn and multiple buckets method. Once you dry the paint, you need to mask rubber and unpainted plastic before you start buffing. There are excellent videos on YouTube by user Junkman2000 on how to use a dual action buffer. And yes, after you compound, you wipe off the excess. Then you follow with polish or cleaner wax (and wipe the excess). Finally, finish with either a sealant or top coat wax (like black wax).
If you only want to do the one spot, I would wash the whole car like normal with normal car wash soap. Then use a scratch compound on the spots (wipe off when done). Followed by a polish coat, wiping off, and a final wax coat.
You may want to perfect your wash technique since that's probably where all the microscratches/spiderwebbing are coming from.
Very good video here by Mike Phillips:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rqdEVtOPKAM
Very good video here by Mike Phillips:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rqdEVtOPKAM
Here's a great video about repairing scratches by Chris Fix. His other videos are very good as well.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2nYF46P7B2c
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2nYF46P7B2c
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