best oil for LS1 2001 CAMARO besides GC 0w30

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which do you prefer Patman PP 5w30 or 5-40?




The 5w40 PP is very hard to find, and we've never seen any UOAs with it, so it's hard to say. But I would think that if you're driving your LS1 hard in very hot weather and would typically see 250+ oil temps, the 5w40 would be the better choice. But for all around driving, especially shorter trips, the 5w30 would be the better choice. As always, let the UOAs be your guide since everyone's driving habits and climate are going to dictate different needs.
 
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Sarge, you just unleashed the wrath of Patman, the likes of which the world has never seen.
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Nah. I bet he agrees. One oil is not for everybody under all driving habits and conditions. So many variables makes one oil for all just not a realistic thing. I think GC is marvelous. Really. But it didn't work out for us. No biggie.
I was just sharing our experiences with many and I mean many LS1's. Some have slap and some don't. Some have more valve train noise than others. Some like 30 weight and some don't. Those that have high wear metals and "excessive" noise we always go to a slightly thicker oil and it brings the wear metals down and the noise abates somewhat. Once again it is always the performance ( ET/Trap Speeds/Flying Mile/etc./UOA's) that guide the choices of oils here. LSX motors are fickle. One may have really close tolerances and the next will be .002 off. Both stock from the factory. Depends on which one you get
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The only LS1/2/6s that do better on 12+ cSt / 3.5+ HTHS oil are defective factory units or aftermarket units with extra clearance built into them.



Not really. Your just up in Austin. I'll PM you and you need to visit the speed shop. Your not 1 hour away. I'll show you stock LS1 engines we tear down almost weekly and you can borrow my micrometer. That will change your opinion pretty dog gone quick
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I have had excellent results with a mobil 1 mix of 10-30and 15-50 in a couple ls1's. Do a search on my user name for Ls1 uoas. Very low wear at 10k mile intervals and very quiet engines cept for the longtubes and ory/open borla.
 
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The only LS1/2/6s that do better on 12+ cSt / 3.5+ HTHS oil are defective factory units or aftermarket units with extra clearance built into them.




Or very hard driven ones that see higher oil temps, which is probably what Sarge sees a lot of.

This is why I've been known to recommend thicker oils like 5w40 to a lot of my friends with LS1s, because I know they will drive them very hard for extended periods of time in hot weather. So under those circumstances, you want an oil that's a bit thicker.

For me, I drive mine daily, and really don't see super high oil temps very often, so I think I'll be just fine going to the thinner PP 5w30 (10.3 cst at 100c) compared to GC (12.2 cst) that I'm running now.
 
I ran the Amsoil in my 2002 Trans Am WS6 for 4 yrs and never had any engine issues.

The aluminum LS1 is noisey by design. My engine always quited down after it warmed up.
Piston pin offset has been reduced over the years to a bare minimum today to reduce the thrust load generated and reduce friction. Pistons have been lightened up considerably by shortening the skirts. This creates less rotating/reciprocating mass which is good for power, free revving capability and fuel economy. Light weight pistons are great but the skirts, by necessity, are short making it hard to make them both strong and flexible and the shorter skirts make them more prone to rocking.

Unfortunately, when the performance and fuel economy oriented pistons are run cold they are very prone to "slap" until they warm up to operating temperature.

The piston designers and development engineers are always treading the fine line between piston slap cold and friction and power/fuel economy loss when the engine is warm.

It is possible that you are hearing piston noise from an engine that is on the "high limit" for piston clearance so that it makes some noise cold. The good news is that the condition is harmless and that engine is probably a little more powerful (due to less friction) than a "quiet" counterpart. The bad news is that...it makes noise cold.

I think my WS6 LS1 was the only one every made that in 4 yrs never went back to the dealer for anything. No warranty claims.

Personally, I have never used any Castol product and probably never will.
 
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I ran the Amsoil in my 2002 Trans Am WS6 for 4 yrs and never had any real engine issues. Actually I think my WS6 LS1 was the only one every made that in 4 yrs never went back to the dealer for anything. No warranty claims.





I had no warranty claims at all on the 1998 LS1 Formula I bought brand new in 98 (and had for almost three years) I drove that car pretty hard too (over 250 quarter mile runs)

And my 98 Corvette has been pretty much just as reliable, with only two repairs needed in 2 1/2 years. One was the climate control display went too dim to read, the other was the replacement of the ECM due to the OEM battery leaking acid on it-a known problem that's not the fault of the car but the battery manufacturer.
 
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The only LS1/2/6s that do better on 12+ cSt / 3.5+ HTHS oil are defective factory units or aftermarket units with extra clearance built into them.



Not really. Your just up in Austin. I'll PM you and you need to visit the speed shop. Your not 1 hour away. I'll show you stock LS1 engines we tear down almost weekly and you can borrow my micrometer. That will change your opinion pretty dog gone quick
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Well...not to get in a apples versus oranges debate with you, we need to delineate between factory built engines, aftermarket built and an aftermarket blueprinted engine.

Using just a micrometer to measure some journals on a factory engine can lead to false conclusions since most massed produce engines use automated methods of assembly where bearings are pick and placed based on automated measuring equipment.

Further, main bearing bore misalignment occurs when the block shifts, usually as a result of thermal cycling over time. The repeated heating and cooling cycles can "relax" the block and create distortions that affect main bearing bore alignment. That is why many racers prefer a "seasoned" block that has already experienced any settling that may occur. So when Joe Speed at the local speed shop tears down a factory engine and notices a few bearings wiped he may pull out his micrometer and conclude there's more clearance than what was there initially and assume that the "thin" oil must be the cause of the bearing wear.

In short, unless you have the proper equipment to measure straightness of the crank, main bearing alignment and concentricity, roundness of the crank and rod journals, rod twist, surface profile of all the journals, etc, it's to easy to draw the wrong conclusions.

In any event, thanks for the offer.
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I'm not a big internet forum debater myself
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However you make my point very well. I took exception to the term "defective" in your previous post. With full knowledge of how an engine is manufactured. One can assume "tolerance" parameters exist. And many a engine meets factory specs and goes out the door "looser" or "tighter" than the next one. And yes we have a level granite table and lots of dial indicators for any crank issue and stretching rod bolts and the such. We got lots of tools
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Joe
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However you make my point very well.




I don't see it, but I'll take your word for it.
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I took exception to the term "defective" in your previous post. With full knowledge of how an engine is manufactured. One can assume "tolerance" parameters exist. And many a engine meets factory specs and goes out the door "looser" or "tighter" than the next one.




Yes one can assume tolerances exist, but that's not my definition of defective. I define defective as when quality control isn't effectively applied at the factory and parts are definitely "out of tolerance" upon production or become that way through use.

Hey...you guys got a surface profiler to check your aftermarket crank finishes?

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However you make my point very well.




I don't see it, but I'll take your word for it.
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I took exception to the term "defective" in your previous post. With full knowledge of how an engine is manufactured. One can assume "tolerance" parameters exist. And many a engine meets factory specs and goes out the door "looser" or "tighter" than the next one.




Yes one can assume tolerances exist, but that's not my definition of defective. I define defective as when quality control isn't effectively applied at the factory and parts are definitely "out of tolerance" upon production or become that way through use.

Hey...you guys got a surface profiler to check your aftermarket crank finishes?

cheers.gif




I realize we are straying from the post subject. However I feel it is related to the post originators question, our discussion that is. When you mentioned the only LSX engines that took a "thicker" oil were either defective or aftermarket, I took exception to that. You make the point yourself inasmuch as you realize, obviously, the factory "specs" are rather lackadaisical at best and many engines perform well while others do not. Some have slap and some do not. My point is this gentlemen has posted he is not happy with a certain weight of oil. Due noise mainly if I read his post correctly. We see this quite often in the LSX motors and their owners and frankly many LSX motors should be on a XX-40 weight from day one. Not all but many. UOA's seem to be the benchmark for determining these weights of oils here but I submit that performance and engine "noise" do play a role in the owners happiness in his/her oil of choice. Furthermore I will submit a thicker oil does not harm your engine. Results may provide lower MPG or RWHP, but do no harm. Flip side is often time wear metals/noise will be lower with a thicker oil than the manufacturer recommended due CAFE/EPA blah blah blah. So I am recommending this gentlemen try a quality 40 weight and lets both see if he is happy or not versus the weight of oil he is utilizing today. And no we do not have a surface profiler as most of our cranks are custom ground at Hendricks Motorsports and they have one
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However you make my point very well.




I don't see it, but I'll take your word for it.
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I took exception to the term "defective" in your previous post. With full knowledge of how an engine is manufactured. One can assume "tolerance" parameters exist. And many a engine meets factory specs and goes out the door "looser" or "tighter" than the next one.




Yes one can assume tolerances exist, but that's not my definition of defective. I define defective as when quality control isn't effectively applied at the factory and parts are definitely "out of tolerance" upon production or become that way through use.

Hey...you guys got a surface profiler to check your aftermarket crank finishes?

cheers.gif




I realize we are straying from the post subject. However I feel it is related to the post originators question, our discussion that is. When you mentioned the only LSX engines that took a "thicker" oil were either defective or aftermarket, I took exception to that. You make the point yourself inasmuch as you realize, obviously, the factory "specs" are rather lackadaisical at best and many engines perform well while others do not. Some have slap and some do not. My point is this gentlemen has posted he is not happy with a certain weight of oil. Due noise mainly if I read his post correctly. We see this quite often in the LSX motors and their owners and frankly many LSX motors should be on a XX-40 weight from day one. Not all but many. UOA's seem to be the benchmark for determining these weights of oils here but I submit that performance and engine "noise" do play a role in the owners happiness in his/her oil of choice. Furthermore I will submit a thicker oil does not harm your engine. Results may provide lower MPG or RWHP, but do no harm. Flip side is often time wear metals/noise will be lower with a thicker oil than the manufacturer recommended due CAFE/EPA blah blah blah. So I am recommending this gentlemen try a quality 40 weight and lets both see if he is happy or not versus the weight of oil he is utilizing today. And no we do not have a surface profiler as most of our cranks are custom ground at Hendricks Motorsports and they have one
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Some well made points, however, there's a perception by many that somehow a thicker oil will provide more protection in every case, which has been proven not to be the case. Look in the UOA section for tons of evidence. If an engine application does well with 5w20, increasing the viscosity beyond that does not provide any additional protection. And that's where the problem lies.

Someone with a stock in-spec LS-x with a less than in depth knowledge will read that Sarge So-and-So runs 40 weight in his LS-X so he concludes thats what he needs to run in his engine for maximum protection. Problem is, he doesn't realize all the aftermarket work you have done on your engines and they're probably no longer in line with factory clearances and surface profiles, etc.

Further, increasing the viscosity beyond what's optimum does have it's drawbacks. The smarter racer/mechanics will have realized this by observing their oil temp/pressure gauges. Too thick of an oil will just raise the oil temps where it's no longer thicker, and above a certain point, may actually start working against you. Run through the bearing design equations to prove it to yourself. What is needed here is an oil cooler - not thicker oil.

As far as deciding if you need thicker oil from something as subjective as engine noise is just ripe with folly. Look through some of the threads where someone changes to 11.3 cSt M1 from their usual 10.3 cSt stuff and then complains of engine noise. Their first conclusion is M1 is too thin! Wrong!

Now let me correct something I never said:

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the factory "specs" are rather lackadaisical at best




I didn't say anything like that. I will contend that some LS-x engines did have quality control problems, like excessive piston slap. Early LS-x engines had piston ring flutter issues. And some may have bearing clearance problems from the factory, but I'm willing to bet they are far and few between. Problems that develop after extreme use are a different story.

We're in full agreement on using UOAs to help the original poster decide on what is best for his application. I recommend Terry Dyson's services if you want to achieve the best results.

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And no we do not have a surface profiler as most of our cranks are custom ground at Hendricks Motorsports and they have one




Gee...I didn't know that Hendricks Motorsports could take time off from supporting their race teams to custom grind crankshafts for us little guys? I'll have to give them a call and see what their prices are.
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Both Sarge/427 know much more about engine designs then I do but I would add that you can have a poorly formulated 40wt oil that could potentially show worse results than a well formulated 30wt oil. Just a thought. I'm sure Sarge knows what oil works best based on his experience with these engines. He's also pushing out a lot more Hp than stock too.

Here is the link:

http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/s...true#Post780906

BTW, this oil is 10.6 cSt @ 100C.

It's just one sample, but I posted a UOA recently of Amsoil 10w-30 with the new SM additive package and it was excellent.
 
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However you make my point very well.




I don't see it, but I'll take your word for it.
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I took exception to the term "defective" in your previous post. With full knowledge of how an engine is manufactured. One can assume "tolerance" parameters exist. And many a engine meets factory specs and goes out the door "looser" or "tighter" than the next one.




Yes one can assume tolerances exist, but that's not my definition of defective. I define defective as when quality control isn't effectively applied at the factory and parts are definitely "out of tolerance" upon production or become that way through use.

Hey...you guys got a surface profiler to check your aftermarket crank finishes?

cheers.gif




I realize we are straying from the post subject. However I feel it is related to the post originators question, our discussion that is. When you mentioned the only LSX engines that took a "thicker" oil were either defective or aftermarket, I took exception to that. You make the point yourself inasmuch as you realize, obviously, the factory "specs" are rather lackadaisical at best and many engines perform well while others do not. Some have slap and some do not. My point is this gentlemen has posted he is not happy with a certain weight of oil. Due noise mainly if I read his post correctly. We see this quite often in the LSX motors and their owners and frankly many LSX motors should be on a XX-40 weight from day one. Not all but many. UOA's seem to be the benchmark for determining these weights of oils here but I submit that performance and engine "noise" do play a role in the owners happiness in his/her oil of choice. Furthermore I will submit a thicker oil does not harm your engine. Results may provide lower MPG or RWHP, but do no harm. Flip side is often time wear metals/noise will be lower with a thicker oil than the manufacturer recommended due CAFE/EPA blah blah blah. So I am recommending this gentlemen try a quality 40 weight and lets both see if he is happy or not versus the weight of oil he is utilizing today. And no we do not have a surface profiler as most of our cranks are custom ground at Hendricks Motorsports and they have one
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Some well made points, however, there's a perception by many that somehow a thicker oil will provide more protection in every case, which has been proven not to be the case. Look in the UOA section for tons of evidence. If an engine application does well with 5w20, increasing the viscosity beyond that does not provide any additional protection. And that's where the problem lies.

Someone with a stock in-spec LS-x with a less than in depth knowledge will read that Sarge So-and-So runs 40 weight in his LS-X so he concludes thats what he needs to run in his engine for maximum protection. Problem is, he doesn't realize all the aftermarket work you have done on your engines and they're probably no longer in line with factory clearances and surface profiles, etc.

Further, increasing the viscosity beyond what's optimum does have it's drawbacks. The smarter racer/mechanics will have realized this by observing their oil temp/pressure gauges. Too thick of an oil will just raise the oil temps where it's no longer thicker, and above a certain point, may actually start working against you. Run through the bearing design equations to prove it to yourself. What is needed here is an oil cooler - not thicker oil.

As far as deciding if you need thicker oil from something as subjective as engine noise is just ripe with folly. Look through some of the threads where someone changes to 11.3 cSt M1 from their usual 10.3 cSt stuff and then complains of engine noise. Their first conclusion is M1 is too thin! Wrong!

Now let me correct something I never said:

Quote:


the factory "specs" are rather lackadaisical at best




I didn't say anything like that. I will contend that some LS-x engines did have quality control problems, like excessive piston slap. Early LS-x engines had piston ring flutter issues. And some may have bearing clearance problems from the factory, but I'm willing to bet they are far and few between. Problems that develop after extreme use are a different story.

We're in full agreement on using UOAs to help the original poster decide on what is best for his application. I recommend Terry Dyson's services if you want to achieve the best results.

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And no we do not have a surface profiler as most of our cranks are custom ground at Hendricks Motorsports and they have one




Gee...I didn't know that Hendricks Motorsports could take time off from supporting their race teams to custom grind crankshafts for us little guys? I'll have to give them a call and see what their prices are.
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Sure they have been selling spinner assemblies to the public for years. No big secret most of the race teams do it. Heck Roush probably makes more money off Roush Racing engines/products than they do racing itself. http://www.roushperf.com/ All of them do it. Roush probably markets that well known ( in high performance builders circles anyway) fact more than Hendricks. Many NASCAR teams also utilize Hendricks motors. Look who Richard Childress uses in all his cars. Hendricks engines. No big news here. Been around for a long time and they build excellent motors. We just buy the spinner assemblies from them....and use Patriot Heads/FAST intakes etc. etc.
As for the thicker comments....I'll let that one lay right where it is. I'm not advocating any of your comments. Not advocating noise is the reason to change viscosity nor am I advocating every other engine is out of specs. I am saying quite frankly that a quality 40 weight oil works well for us in the slightly to highly modfied LS1's. Much better than the 30's for sure. Curious what the original posters choice will be here.
 
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