I have a Fram PH5 that is stuck on my remote filter bracket. Bought the socket type that you put on a ratchet from Ohreally?'s yesterday. I managed to break that with a 3/8 ratchet and jack my forearm up. That filter is really on there. I'm afraid to use the band type because it might just end up crushing the filter sides. Note: When I installed this filter, I installed hand tight with a dab of oil on the gasket.
Best oil filter wrench or sockets?
- Thread starter monster1
- Start date
If you broke the cap, then crushing the filter is the least of your worries. I’d worry about cracking the remote mount, it’s cast aluminum, isn’t it? Put the band wrench on it, crush the sides, or drive a punch into it and rotate it with that, but either way, be prepared to destroy the filter and hope the mount survives.
A decent strap wrench, like a Lisle, should work. Depends on what access you have. Make sure you square up correctly with the told and filter.
Another option is to take it to a shop. Once on a lift, things get easier...
Another option is to take it to a shop. Once on a lift, things get easier...
This one has been my go to for difficult oil filter removal:
www.harborfreight.com
There is a version with a lock also:
www.harborfreight.com
Oil Filter Pliers
Amazing deals on this Oil Filter Pliers at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
www.harborfreight.com
There is a version with a lock also:
Locking Oil Filter Wrench
Amazing deals on this Locking Oil Filter Wrench at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
www.harborfreight.com
I got a 1974 VW Rabbit back in the 1980s which I bought used, can't take oil filter out on it's first OCI of my ownership. Don't know the strongman who installed it there, I finally got it out by puncturing the oil filter with a screw driver.
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The advice I've heard and follow is to fit the strap wrench near the base. Include the base plate if you can.
Punching a screwdriver or rod through the sides hasn't worked in my experience. The sheet metal simply continues to tear.
Then you have to turn the baseplate by hitting with a cold chisel at "the correct angle".
I'm surprised they don't sell "lug spanners" to engage the baseplate from the inner side after the can and element has been removed.
When installing I mark the can. After it touches, I do the recommended +1/2 to 3/4 turn.
EVERYBODY overturns canister filters....except us, of course.
Punching a screwdriver or rod through the sides hasn't worked in my experience. The sheet metal simply continues to tear.
Then you have to turn the baseplate by hitting with a cold chisel at "the correct angle".
I'm surprised they don't sell "lug spanners" to engage the baseplate from the inner side after the can and element has been removed.
When installing I mark the can. After it touches, I do the recommended +1/2 to 3/4 turn.
EVERYBODY overturns canister filters....except us, of course.
Was the socket from O'Reilly plastic or the stupid stamped steel with square drive plate spot welded in?
I prefer the one piece alloy sockets ala VIM and others. I'm sure someone has managed to destroy or crack those, but it would be very difficult.
I try to avoid stamped steel whenever possible. I've welded the square drive back in when the spot welds fail (and they will), and then the square drive itself just starts to wallow because it's a square cutout in plate. You want full engagement of an anvil, no different than a socket.
I prefer the one piece alloy sockets ala VIM and others. I'm sure someone has managed to destroy or crack those, but it would be very difficult.
I try to avoid stamped steel whenever possible. I've welded the square drive back in when the spot welds fail (and they will), and then the square drive itself just starts to wallow because it's a square cutout in plate. You want full engagement of an anvil, no different than a socket.
I would try a good quality band type. In extreme cases it is more likely to pinch one side than crush the whole thing, because pressure is being applied around the circumference. If you crush the sides, what difference does it make at this point? Make sure there is no oil on it and the filter itself. Some people also resort to putting a rubber shim pad around the filter for more grip if it slides around.
Was the engine warmed up? If you don't want to deal with draining hot oil, just get the filter broke loose and then wait for engine to cool some.
Was the engine warmed up? If you don't want to deal with draining hot oil, just get the filter broke loose and then wait for engine to cool some.
They do, I have one of these. Not cheap but it gets the job done.
Bogert Aviation Talon Oil Filter Removal Tool | Aircraft Spruce
Bogert Aviation Talon Oil Filter Removal Tool The TALON Oil Filter Tool was created to remove stubbornly stuck oil filters. It is 50% stronger than the standard 10M-OFT type.
www.aircraftspruce.com
Thank you gentlemen. I'm going to pick up a Lisle band style and hope that works without crushing the filter. If it does, I can remove the filter remote, cut the can and use a Talon filter wrench. After watching the video someone posted, I think I need therapy. 
The socket style I used from Ohreally?'s was the cheap stamped steel with the spot welded cap and 3/8" drive square hole cut into the sheet metal. I was able to snap the spot welds with a cheap 3/8 ratchet. This whole mess wouldn't be an issue if I had access to my really tools locked away in storage as we wait for our house to be built. Unfortunately, I'm at the mercy of a roadside tool bag and an automatic store locally and a harbor freight 30 minutes away. Hopefully one of the two tools I mentioned works without destroying the remote filter housing as it's a marine specific part and replacement is 350 bucks. Of course I could buy a generic part and fabricate a bracket as an alternative. Thanks again and I'll post my progress.
The socket style I used from Ohreally?'s was the cheap stamped steel with the spot welded cap and 3/8" drive square hole cut into the sheet metal. I was able to snap the spot welds with a cheap 3/8 ratchet. This whole mess wouldn't be an issue if I had access to my really tools locked away in storage as we wait for our house to be built. Unfortunately, I'm at the mercy of a roadside tool bag and an automatic store locally and a harbor freight 30 minutes away. Hopefully one of the two tools I mentioned works without destroying the remote filter housing as it's a marine specific part and replacement is 350 bucks. Of course I could buy a generic part and fabricate a bracket as an alternative. Thanks again and I'll post my progress.Ask a fab shop to burn the square drive back on. Offer a 6 pack ahead of time and tell them it doesn't need to be pretty.
Then it'll probably hold up long enough. If you have access to an impact wrench that might "shock" it loose and might be safer than a long lever/cheater when it comes to breaking the filter mount.
Then it'll probably hold up long enough. If you have access to an impact wrench that might "shock" it loose and might be safer than a long lever/cheater when it comes to breaking the filter mount.
I'm betting you have galled threads and no amount of force or tool will bring it back if you have already tried the end cap style. I would be ready to replace the nipple the filter mounts on. Thread galling can be somewhat common on aluminum threaded nipples with steel filter base plates.
Just my $0.02
Just my $0.02
Nah, the spot welds on stamped steel units snap if you look at 'em funny.
Not saying the threads aren't galled (no one knows), just that breaking what the OP did could be accomplished by a small child.
I use the strap style you use with a ratchet don't put it in the middle. either end is way better.
Filter tongs can work but I dont use them on very stuck oil filters.
Screwdriver never a good option. you just shred the sheetmetal and its worse than smashing the filter with giant pliers and turning it.
Filter tongs can work but I dont use them on very stuck oil filters.
Screwdriver never a good option. you just shred the sheetmetal and its worse than smashing the filter with giant pliers and turning it.
If you installed the oil filter handtight, you can remove the oil filter without the oil filter wrench. With the wrench it's even easier without any effort at all. I have a strong feeling you trying to remove it on the opposite direction>>righty tighty
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Thank you. I'll try that.
