Best oil and filter for a 2006 mustang v6 pony

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Sixxer

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Feb 27, 2010
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158
Location
Georgia
1. 2006 V6 mustang 4.0l
2.5w30
3.Live in Georgia
4.I drive pretty hard I do keep the pedal to the floor sometimes
5.Short trips of about 10 mile intervals
6.No known problems just looking for the best oil and filter
I would like to use synthetic oil after I sea-foam and drain all of the Dino out of it. I have read that puralators are good filters so I will probably go with them.
 
I would never sea foam or use any engine additives or cleaners. Just grab some of your fave synth/filter and fill her up!
 
I change my mom's Explorer's oil all the time and its equiped with the same 4.0L as your Mustang. I have never had a problem with Mobil 1 and Pure1 combo and it seems the best combo in that engine. I would also avoid engine additives and just drain and fill with the new oil, dont waste your time on additives.
 
To other BITOG people, it is his first post on BITOG so he requires details, abbreviations are greek to him.

P1 or PP1 stands for Purolator Pure One, and it is one of the best filters. If you can, fine out what the larger volume, longer version of a PP1 filter is for you vehicle, if there is one. With premium synthetic oil you can go with longer oil change intervals.

You might run the new Pennzoil Ultra or M1 drive clean oil for a couple of 4 K mile OCI (oil change interval) to clean out the engine if you do not know the previous maintenance history. If it were mine after cleaning with two 4 K mile OC using PU I would use GC and go with 8 K OCI.

GC is Castrol Syntec 0w30 it is one of the few real synthetic oils and will say "European Formula" on the front of the bottle and "made in germany" near the bar code on the back of the bottle. You can only get it at Pep-Boys and Auto-Zone. Pep-Boys puts it on sale with a PP1 filter 5 quarts + filter for 24.99. You will need to know the larger / longer filter number to get that filter instead of the stock shorter size.

There are several favorite oils here on BITOG.

Go to google and enter bitog and other info such as GC PP M1 QS and read the post that come up.

One of the best ways to search here on BITOG is to use google.

I would also be concerned about the history of maintenance of the cooling system, has it ever been flushed? And the transmission fluid and filter (also drain torque converter at the same time to do a complete fluid change on transmission), belt(s) and tensioner.

How many miles are on it? If it has high mileage you might want to do the rear end fluid, PS fluid, and brake fluid.

Sixxer, you might want to do another post here on BITOG and ask what preventative maintenance would you suggest. Give as many specifics about the vehicle as you can.
 
Last edited:
Valvoline Maxlife (blend) 5w30 and a NAPA Gold filter seem to be working great on our 07 mustang V6. We put it back on the road earlier this week due to the Jeep dying. Runs nice and smooth.
 
Thanks so much for all of the replies. Lets see here. The car is a manual and has 35,000 miles on it. I have never preformed a transmission flush or coolant flush but I did see a video on americanmuscle.com of how to change the manual transmission fluid on a 95 gt. I am up for doing things myself but I dont want to get half way and realize a problem.

As far as oil goes, Run Pennzoil ultra with a Puralator pure one oil filter for 2 4,000 mile intervals. Then switch to Castrol syntec 0w-30? with a puralator pure one? Thanks a bunch I would love to keep her running forever.
 
My 05 Explorer with the same 4.0 runs excellent on Quaker State Synthetic, which is about $5.00 cheaper for 5qt jug than PP.
 
Originally Posted By: Sixxer
Thanks so much for all of the replies. Lets see here. The car is a manual and has 35,000 miles on it. I have never preformed a transmission flush or coolant flush but I did see a video on americanmuscle.com of how to change the manual transmission fluid on a 95 gt. I am up for doing things myself but I dont want to get half way and realize a problem.

As far as oil goes, Run Pennzoil ultra with a Puralator pure one oil filter for 2 4,000 mile intervals. Then switch to Castrol syntec 0w-30? with a puralator pure one? Thanks a bunch I would love to keep her running forever.

At 35,000 miles and/or four years old, you should have had the coolant flushed/changed and the fuel filter changed. Other than those 2 things, and motor oil, you are pretty well off thus far. As for what motor oil to get, how much are you willing to spend? There are many great options out there, and price is what will determine what to go with.
 
Sixxer - Nice car, but too heavy for my tastes.
Synthetic oils are mostly for longer oil change intervals.
They are also good at EXTREME temperatures, like the Arctic or turbocharger use. For your short oil change intervals, there really is not a need.
Motorcraft is excellent and cheap - it is a semi synth.

A Motorcraft oil filter is always a safe bet - proper valving and good filtration - good quality and availability.

Also, it's good to change your transmission fluid now. Step up from ATF and use Redline MTL or Amsoil MTF. They are made for manual transmissions an are superb.

Your coolant should be good for years, but if you want t o drain and fill, use the G-05 the factory uses. Zerex brand , or a dealer will have it.
 
Thanks, As far as how much I am willing to spend. No more than say $45 an oil change, thats after the filter as well. So say $35-40 for 5 quarts of oil.
 
By the way, I just bought it a few weeks ago. The other owner may have had the coolant flushed and the transmission fluid replaced.
 
Well, you could pick up Pennzoil Platinum and a Motorcraft filter for around $28 (5 qt. jug at Wal-Mart is about $24 and the filter is about $3 or $4). You could get Pennzoil Ultra as well and a filter for ~$32.
You could go with Amsoil XL and a Motorcraft filter for ~$38.
You could run Motorcraft Synthetic Blend oil and a Motorcraft filter for about $16 and just go for 5,000 miles.
Either way, I'd just run a bit short OCI due to the conditions. You could send the oil in for analysis to see what is actually going on with the oil, and adjust your OCI from there.

When you switch, just change the oil once and go. At 35,000 miles, I wouldn't run 2 short oil changes and then change the oil and OCI for a third time in 8,000 miles. Then again, I'm not made of money and can't perform some of these crazy (IMO) suggestions. Save your money on both accounts; skip the Seafoam too.

As for checking the maintenance, when you go to a dealer, they should be able to pull up and services done there. The coolant is the one I'd worry about. If it wasn't performed at the dealer (and no other record of it being done), you may want to have it done just to be safe. The manual transmission can run the fluid for quite awhile so don't worry about that at 35,000 miles.
 
You guys are great! The only other question that I have is how long of a shelf life does synthetic or blend have? I was wondering if while its on sale if I could purchase enough for two changes?
 
Buy it while it's on sale. Just shake the bottle real well before pouring it in. As the bottles set the additives will drop out and end up in the bottom of the bottle.
 
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