Best OCI to make it to 200k to 300k.
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Just follow the “severe service” intervals for everything (oil, transmission fluid, coolant, etc.) and make sure you get that thing under coated by a reputable company if you live in a rust-prone area.
I drive for Doordash and my Honda has ~243k miles and I do 5k OCI. Like you know, It is a lot of start and stop and idling, my oil typically has a strong fuel smell to it. I run a Purolator One oil filter fo 10k miles and Costco oil for 5k miles.
Concentrate on everything else besides the OCI.
Start with the cosmetics of the car and then move on to meticulous maintenance of every other fluid in the car.
I’m perfectly serious. Change the oil at the recommended service interval with M-1 EP, or similar high end oil, or recommended mileage minus 25%-30% with an oil that merely meets specs, and I can just about guarantee your engine will make it.
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For a Grubhub driver trying to both minimize costs and downtime and maximize vehicle longevity, I would use Wal-Mart synthetic at manufacturer OCI. I would use whatever medium grade filter was cheapest.
Realistically, it’s accidents, other mechanical issues that don’t involve engines, dramatic change in lifestyle, or cosmetic issues that take us out of our cars.
For a Mazda, I would definitely get it Krowned if I lived in the snow belt. As it is, I would make it a point to get under there with a blast of plain water at the coin-op car wash from time to time anyway on general principles.
Start with the cosmetics of the car and then move on to meticulous maintenance of every other fluid in the car.
I’m perfectly serious. Change the oil at the recommended service interval with M-1 EP, or similar high end oil, or recommended mileage minus 25%-30% with an oil that merely meets specs, and I can just about guarantee your engine will make it.
They
For a Grubhub driver trying to both minimize costs and downtime and maximize vehicle longevity, I would use Wal-Mart synthetic at manufacturer OCI. I would use whatever medium grade filter was cheapest.
Realistically, it’s accidents, other mechanical issues that don’t involve engines, dramatic change in lifestyle, or cosmetic issues that take us out of our cars.
For a Mazda, I would definitely get it Krowned if I lived in the snow belt. As it is, I would make it a point to get under there with a blast of plain water at the coin-op car wash from time to time anyway on general principles.
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I put about 255k on my VW doing 10k initially, then let it creep up towards 14k, then at 255k the turbo quit. So I put in a bigger one, had it chipped to take advantage of the turbo, and went back to 10k OCI's. Sold it in good running order with 314k on the clock.
Our Camry's get changes either every 5k (227k) with whatever, or 5k/10k (depending on my mood) with cheapo Walmart synthetic (and that car has 217k).
IMO many cars don't care. There are some that are hard on oil and short changes are required--but then they don't care too much what, just frequent. Others aren't hard on oil and will go near forever on swill. A few need good oil and can go short or long, for those I guess it makes sense to worry. But if the car in question isn't one of them... pick a cheap oil and motor on.
Rust is a bigger issue IMO, like others have mentioned. Then trans oil and brake fluid.
Our Camry's get changes either every 5k (227k) with whatever, or 5k/10k (depending on my mood) with cheapo Walmart synthetic (and that car has 217k).
IMO many cars don't care. There are some that are hard on oil and short changes are required--but then they don't care too much what, just frequent. Others aren't hard on oil and will go near forever on swill. A few need good oil and can go short or long, for those I guess it makes sense to worry. But if the car in question isn't one of them... pick a cheap oil and motor on.
Rust is a bigger issue IMO, like others have mentioned. Then trans oil and brake fluid.
Personally, I would have kept the Prius. As a delivery driver, your car is nothing more than a tool, and mpg is king.
Are you changing this yourself? If so, cost isn't as much of an issue to do shorter OCI's. If you are paying for a change I'd just run it on the normal schedule. I'd go up a grade anyways, no harm with the engine being warm all of the time and some fuel dilution isn't as much of a problem. Mazda Australia says use 5W30 so I'd go with that.
Just my opinion but a great bang for the buck would be Supertech Full Syn at 5-6k mile intervals. That's under 15 bucks for oil plus whatever filter you run. Every 30k miles check and replace the air filter as required. Of course, read and follow the OEM maintenance schedule as well.
No pictures? Pictures always make a thread better.
I dont think even daily changes will ensure an engine lasts to 300k lol. Just do 5k and don't worry about it. Que sera sera.
It's a problem for every car. I've seen just as much rust from my Jeep, from my mazda, from my Ford, from my GM. mazda had an issue with it a while back specifically, but that has been rectified.What does Mazda say to do?
Do you live in an area where rust is a problem? If so, you'll want to get rustproofing done on it (Krown, Noxudol, etc). In much of the country, rust is a big deal, and a big problem with Mazda, too. The car will rust before you have any problems with the engine or transmission.
OP: I would use an oil that is synthetic, Dexos 1 G2 certified, and also Honda Hot Tube (HTT06 or something) certified. I would change my oil every 5K miles if you drive normally, and every 7500 if your use is long distance/highway 80%+ maybe. Me? My Mazda's get changed every 5K miles.
I know plenty of people who Uber, GrubHub, etc. that are not worried about an oil change expense... lets not assume.
I avoid listening to blanket statements often posted here about how long oil should last. If I had to venture a guess and it was one of my vehicles I'd run a good synthetic oil and change it with the filter every 5K miles. Since UOA exists I don't have to guess. I'd spend the money ~ $10 plus postage and get a UOA with TBN after driving for 5K miles. Then take that information and determine a good OCI based on the data from the UOA. If I had any doubts about interpreting the data I'd post the UOA here and let the resident UOA experts weigh in.
OP is using an engine that gets very hot, and that is DI and high compression. I am not sure I'd go simply by TBN.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/honda-acura-hto-06.307784/Wow Honda Hot Tube? That's what that stands for!
I honestly didn't know that
Seems GM has a new/more modern test.
Whatever SN+ in a 0w20 floats your boat at 5000 mile intervals + Napa Platinum filter (which are on sale for <$7 right now). Delivery driving = ultra severe driving (short trips, lots of stop and go, lots of idling) make sure to check oil frequently.
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