?best motor oil to use in manual gearbox

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If a manufacturer is going to save $.50 by making a coolant flange out of plastic instead of aluminum, what makes you think they will spend more to put ultra premium oils in places other than the engine.

I always figured that the reason Corvette, Porsche, and Benz had M1 engine oil written under the hood because Mobil would sell the OE oil cheaper in order to advertise under the hood. Mobil then could make more money later when people get their car serviced at the dealer, and they could even make more money by saying "This fancy car uses M1, just imagine what it does for your ordinary car."

ATF, PSF, and gear oil are not replaced nearly as often as engine oil. Perhaps so much less, that Mobil doesn't feel like giving bargain prices to the OE just so other lubricated items can have "Use only Mobil1" written on them.

Fortunately some transmission and gear specialists endorse and use Amsoil.
 
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Check your manual for the proper type of MT fluid for use in Colt for if memory serves, it should be something like API GL-4 75W90.

I was in this same boat about 6 months ago. I have a 96 Geo Metro with a 5spd manual.
I drained the ORIGINAL fluid and tried PZ sychromesh. Wrong stuff, shifted like I had water in the box. Drained that and used Amsoil 75w-90 MTG. Used it for a couple of months and for some reason still didn't like the way my tranny shifted due to its age. Still too notchy.

Switched to STA-LUBE 85w-90 GL-4 and I love the stuff. Its thick and makes shifting an old tranny nice and smooth. I admit on COLD mornings its a bit stiff, but still moves right on into gear fine.

Maybe the blistering summers are to blame for the notchiness on old manual trannies.
 
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Thanks firemarshallRob, I appreciate the tip. I'm thinking of brewing up a Frankenmix, since i enjoy doing those things:
4 parts SuperTech semisynth 75w90 gl5, 2 parts Pennzoil synchromesh, 4.7 parts Mobil extended synthetic 5w30, 0.68 part
molyslip g, 0.3 part molyslip e. This will yield 6 x 1.8l, or enough for 6 fluid changes. Since I own 3 Dodge Colts, this should last me for a while. I'll let you know how it shifts.
If the mix turns out to be too watery, although I doubt this, then I can mix it with 4 more parts of SuperTech 80w90 gl5. I'm thinking that the 4.7 parts of Mobil motor oil will dilute down the gl5 additive to close to a gl4. Also the label on the synchromesh and on the SuperTech was that it protects yellow metal.
I just acquired a tranny with only 80,000 miles on it. I will be swapping it out for the old one, and rebuilding the old one myself. then i will swap out another old one for a rebuilt one, and keeping that in stock. I should get the first colt put together in about 2 weeks from now. the second colt will get a rebuilt tranny next summer, and my third cold ONLY has 40,000 miles on it - it's just a baby, and i think the original owner did not even abuse it - so bonus!!! :)

i also turned into a real pig, and asked the wrecker whether he has a used engine: he had one with 50,000 miles on it, compression 150 on all cylinders, for 500$CDN plus shipping.
This is a bargain, because just the rebuild kit for that engine is 300US$.

Since the clutch needed replacement, and i am replacing the tranny, might as well replace the engine at the same time:
oink oink oink. i think the engine is starting to have troubles with either the seals on the stems, or rings - i am not the original owner, so i am not to blame. i'll have the shop open it up and see what it will cost to replace the seals rings bearing etc, hopefully the pistons will still be o.k. - but i'm still not too sure whether i really want to do this.

yes, i know, i'm a real pig, but actually i'm just spending a couple of grand, right now, and i won't need anything new for a looong time, so that's how i justify it. Also, when my buddies brag about how they spent 800$ on this fantastic rare postage stamp, i tell them i spent 600$ on a whole ENGINE, a Mitsubishi Japanese one at that! i plan on buying the next generation of impreza when it comes out in another 4 years or so. or perhaps the current generation if they put in either a smaller engine,or a nice tall overdrive gear and get some better mpg numbers out.

i really would like to see a new generation of impreza coming out as a much smaller car, instead of 3000lb, cut the weight to 2000lb, like what the colt has, or the old BMW 2002, and put in a 1.8 flat four, 6 speed stick. Now THAT is what i would really go for.
 
Another follow up: I had the wrecker install the used tranny, and new clutch in my Mitsubishi Colt. The tranny fluid was drained, and replaced by the following mix:
2.5 parts Mobil 5w30 motor oil, synthetic extended
2 parts ST 75w90 gear oil, semi synthetic
1 part Pennzoil Synchromesh
0.5 part MoS2 (I think it is safe to use MoS2 in a gearbox)

The engine oil was drained and replaced with Shell 5w20:5w30 50:50 synthetic.

This morning was 9 degrees F.
The engine started like a shot and purrs beautifully.
The transmission shifting is with finger tip feather touch action, the engine and tranny run and shift ultra smooth, in this deep freeze weather. It feels like I am driving a car that was reserved for the Gods: that man tricked God into letting him drive in His chariot - that's exactly how nice it seems. In motion the gearbox is completely silent, and obviously loves the oil, the engine also really appreciates the nice 5w25 mix; despite the ultra cold, there is no lag, and no sluggishness, it runs better than I have ever known.
 
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.5 part MoS2 (I think it is safe to use MoS2 in a gearbox)


MoS2 does not need to be in a manual transmission. It has been shown to interfere with the friction modifer.

Suggest you use an MT lubricant specifically formulated for same.
 
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I suggest you drain that mix ASAP and pour in the proper grade/formula fluid. Stick to manufactures recommended synthetic gear oil. Can never go wrong with Amsoil.
 
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I'm not sure if scoobie is serious about all this or just trying to drive us nuts! You're ignoring some good advice here, scoobie, even if your Frankenmix is working ok for the moment.
 
Hi, this is the article I was using:
Lubricant for New Venture Gear 3500, 4500, and 5600 Transmissions

by Vince Spinelli - covers Chrysler / GM New Venture Gear 3500 / 4500 / 5600 Transmissions, 1995 through 2007 (+?)

The question of “What lubricant do I use to drain/fill (service) the standard shift transmission in my Dodge, Jeep, or GM truck?” has plagued many a mechanic for some time now. Previously, we'd all been under the impression that 75-90 GL-4 was the way to go. Not true, at least not any more.

The Dodge 2003 DR Ram Truck 1500-2500-3500 Shop Manual, Volume 1, states:
Note: DaimlerChrysler recommends using Mopar lubricants or lubricants of equal quality

- NV3500 – Mopar Manual Transmission Lubricant
- NV4500 – Mopar Synthetic 75W85 Manual Transmission Lubricant
- NV5600 – Mopar Manual Transmission Lubricant

So, the NV4500 is a given; use any high quality 75W85 GL-4 Synthetic Gear Oil. Items such as Mobil 1 Synthetic, Castrol Syntorq, or Valvoline Synpower will all do the job nicely. But be warned, the spec is for GL-4 lubricant, NOT the commonly available GL-5 that we've all been using in our front and rear axles these past few years.

API (American Petroleum Institute Classification) GL-4 (Gear Lubricant-4) contains about half the additives of GL-5. Higher concentration of Extreme Pressure additives in GL-5 gear oils may cause the softer metals, such as copper, brass and bronze – which make up the shift synchronizers of a manual transmission - to suffer premature wear / failure. So, stick with the specified GL-4 classification, in any of your favorite synthetic brands.

The NV3500 and 5600, however, leave us all wondering what magic potion this 'Mopar Manual Trans Lube' (or in the case of our GM folk, 'GM Manual Trans Lube') has within its chemical makeup. Well, you might be surprised to know that the recipe is very close to the average 5w30 motor oil.

DISCLAIMER: Use of lubricants that do not SPECIFICALLY meet that of the manufacturer's specified lubricant may void the vehicle's warranty. Use of non-OEM recommended lubricants (or lubricants which are not guaranteed to meet or exceed OEM lubricants for the specified use) is at the risk and liability of the vehicle's owner, not the author or publisher of this article. Use of the Mobil 1 product for this purpose constitutes acceptance of this disclaimer. See the longer disclaimer at the end of this page.

Please note that 5w30 motor oil is not a far cry from 75w85 gear oil. In fact, 10w40 is about the same consistency (under thermal stress) as 75w90 gear oil. The numbers may seem far off, but they are much closer than many may realize.

As it turns out, Castrol was brought in by New Venture Gear (a joint transmission-design firm once owned by Chrysler and GM cooperatively) to find or develop a suitable lubricant for the new transmissions. While 75w85 GL-4 sufficed for the 4500, a gearbox aimed primarily at medium duty work trucks, the 3500 and 5600 (which would go into service as mainly daily drivers, and thus designed for a blend of quality driving and medium duty work) required something more refined.

According to sources, which aren't named, the Castrol (owned by British Petroleum, aka “BP”) remedy was a 5w30-”ish” full synthetic, meeting the API specification for energy conserving gasoline engines, and tested to be safe for yellow metals, the copper, brass, and bronze that we spoke of earlier. A standard 'dinosaur' crude-oil engine oil would likely meet this demand, however it would require too frequent a change interval (to prevent sludging and oil breakdown) for transmissions.

Supposedly this is a 'lifetime' lubricant... but after draining the casing in my 2003 Ram, I found enough 'gunk' and metal shavings to make me cry. Nothing in the world is a lifetime lubricant. If treated with kid gloves, 100,000 miles is a reasonable change interval. However, when other people are driving your vehicle, or if you learned how to drive stick on your vehicle, or – whatever – you're going to want to cut that down to a 50,000 mile change interval or so. Only you can be the judge; consider your driving habits and the work level you use your vehicle at (industrial, moderate towing, light towing, simply daily commuting, other).

That being said, the Castrol formulated mystery lubricant is available from your local GM or Chrysler dealer for anywhere between $15 and $30 per quart (prices as of July, 2007). Considering you'll only need 3 to 4 quarts (the 3500 only calls for 2 quarts, but by the time you pump it in and spill a little, you'll end up using a little over 2, so buy 3... the 5600 requires more... remember, do not overfill, simply to the bottom of the fill-plug orifice), it's likely not a big problem to plunk down $45 to $120 at your local dealership. But, if you can get the same quality of protection and performance, for less than half that price, and not have to wait for your dealer to be in stock of the item, then why shouldn't you walk right down to your local auto parts store and fulfill your needs?

After a bit of research and phone calls to the help lines of Valvoline, Texaco-Havoline, Pennzoil, Quaker State, Castrol (who were shockingly unhelpful), and Exxon-Mobil, I've found what appears to be the only off-the-shelf replacement lubricant that meets the standards of the OEM lubricant.

That is – Mobil 1 Synthetic Extreme Performance 15,000 Mile 5w30 Motor Oil.

This lubricant meets the viscosity and thermal requirements of the OEM lubricant, is designed for severe duty and to prevent shearing of the lubricant under high temperature and stress (as modern manual transmissions are subjected to the heat of modern emissions required catalytic converters, which sit about 6 inches away in most cases), and is promised (according to Exxon-Mobil help line as of July 2, 2007 at 12:30 pm EST) to be safe for bronze, brass, copper, and most other 'yellow metals'. Castrol, Valvoline, and the rest stated that their products were not tested against brass, bronze, or copper, which surprised me considering that many camshaft bearings are made of bronze in newer vehicles such as the recent LS-1 Corvette. This may be a different grade of bronze than others speak of when the term 'yellow metals' is used. I, however, doubt that.

The moral of the story is that many synthetic 5w30 oils may do the job quite nicely, however, at this time none of their manufacturers are willing to state on record that the product will perform in the given environment. As such, only Mobil 1 Synthetic Extreme Perf 15k Mile 5w30 fits our needs.

The change interval should be the same as the OEM Castrol developed product, and there should be no adverse affect on shifting or synchronizer function/lifespan.

The cost of the Mobil product is roughly $6.50 to $7.00 per quart (as of July 2007, from partsamerica.com // Advance Auto, Checker, etc.).

Amsoil does make a Synchromesh 5w30 that is guaranteed (by Amsoil) to be direct replacement product for the Mopar / GM OEM lubricant, but Amsoil's product is not regularly stocked (as of July 2007) at any national chain auto parts stores that I am aware of. The Amsoil product is approximately $8.50 per quart, a very fair price for a fluid that is guaranteed to be direct replacement. Nonetheless, for an 'off the shelf' lubricant, Mobil 1 Synthetic Extreme Performance 15,000 mile 5w30 is where it's at.

I'll write a very brief follow up to this article in one year to let everyone know how my own personal trial of the Mobil 1 lubricant has played out.

— Vince Spinelli

Based on this write up, I decided to play it safe, and use only
50% Mobil 1, but knowing that probably it is the better of all of the products I was mixing into it.
 
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After a bit of research and phone calls to the help lines of Valvoline, Texaco-Havoline, Pennzoil, Quaker State, Castrol (who were shockingly unhelpful), and Exxon-Mobil, I've found what appears to be the only off-the-shelf replacement lubricant that meets the standards of the OEM lubricant.

That is – Mobil 1 Synthetic Extreme Performance 15,000 Mile 5w30 Motor Oil.



This is totally horse puckey. Proper viscosity and friction modification are required for proper mt operation and longevity. I have yet to see a PCMO that has the proper viscosity OR friction modifcation additives to use in a mt.

Have Spinelli read this:

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/synchromesh-manual-transmission-lubricants.93561/

WHat's with these so-called articles lately that seem to be written by members of the mob.
crazy2.gif
 
Originally Posted By: scoobie
Another follow up: I had the wrecker install the used tranny, and new clutch in my Mitsubishi Colt. The tranny fluid was drained, and replaced by the following mix:
2.5 parts Mobil 5w30 motor oil, synthetic extended
2 parts ST 75w90 gear oil, semi synthetic
1 part Pennzoil Synchromesh
0.5 part MoS2 (I think it is safe to use MoS2 in a gearbox)

The engine oil was drained and replaced with Shell 5w20:5w30 50:50 synthetic.

This morning was 9 degrees F.
The engine started like a shot and purrs beautifully.
The transmission shifting is with finger tip feather touch action, the engine and tranny run and shift ultra smooth, in this deep freeze weather. It feels like I am driving a car that was reserved for the Gods: that man tricked God into letting him drive in His chariot - that's exactly how nice it seems. In motion the gearbox is completely silent, and obviously loves the oil, the engine also really appreciates the nice 5w25 mix; despite the ultra cold, there is no lag, and no sluggishness, it runs better than I have ever known.


Does your car have the Getrag like the 3000GT`s?
 
i don't think it's a getrag, but apparently some mitsubishi gearboxes like the synchromesh fluid. it's about midnight right now, and it's exactly 5 degrees F, which is cold enough. i fired up the engine, it started nicely, and i took the car out for a nice drive, to verify the operation of the transmission. it runs and shifts perfectly. normally i'd expect a bit of sluggishness with the temperature being what it is, but running the synthetic fluids, and running thin fluids, in both the engine and tranny, seems to do the job.
 
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